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Old 30th March 2014, 08:10 PM   #7471
Julf is offline Julf  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OllBoll View Post
Yes it's technically safe, but if your source outputs DC then bye bye compression driver. I would use a large DC blocking cap in series with the compression driver anyway, it's such a cheap way to protect against mistakes.
I would put the cap at the ncore input - that allows you to use a much smaller cap, instead of a bipolar electrolyte or something equally horrible.
 
Old 31st March 2014, 12:40 AM   #7472
OllBoll is offline OllBoll  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julf View Post
I would put the cap at the ncore input - that allows you to use a much smaller cap, instead of a bipolar electrolyte or something equally horrible.
That would also work. But in the case that the NCore fails one or two big say 10 uF MKS caps isn't a big price to pay for extra safety =)

But mostly it's just that I would put a protection cap inside the speaker so if I sometime feels like swapping amps and connect the wrong cables I will still have a tweeter afterwards.
 
Old 31st March 2014, 06:54 AM   #7473
Julf is offline Julf  Europe
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Originally Posted by OllBoll View Post
That would also work. But in the case that the NCore fails one or two big say 10 uF MKS caps isn't a big price to pay for extra safety
Not a big price in terms of money and complexity, but many of us who use active crossovers do it (among other reasons) to avoid analog crossovers and associated phase issues. Your 10 uF cap is the HF part of a 1st order Butterworth at 4 kHz (assuming 4 ohm tweeters).
 
Old 20th April 2014, 07:53 PM   #7474
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Finally got around to rebuilding my amps with better parts-Furotech, Cardas. Also used a jeweler's loupe to compensate for extremely poor vision. Now I can see that I don't know how to solder. Nevertheless, plugged them in and I'll be darned if they don't sound just as good as they did yesterday. I'm able to imagine that I hear small preferred differences. Wifey thinks she hears clear differences but then again doesn't really listen and doesn't care. Maybe a gambit to keep me from the upgrade itch. Something I rarely scratch. The 400's are a no brainer to assemble. If I can do it . . .
 
Old 13th May 2014, 08:18 AM   #7475
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Default ncore bridged

so wanted to know...is it possible to join 3 ncore and get 1200W on 4 ohm...i have pair of 3 ncore each pics here..

FS: Pair of 3Ncore each

can they be joined to give 1200W output power....or two either for 800w...

thought i ask....need for some maggie 1.7...heard more the power more they sing....

V
 
Old 13th May 2014, 09:36 AM   #7476
miero is offline miero  Czech Republic
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thisisvv: impedance of magneplanar 1.7 is close to 2 ohm at 10kHz-20kHz and below 2 ohm at 20kHz

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/image...ance-phase.gif
 
Old 13th May 2014, 09:51 AM   #7477
Julf is offline Julf  Europe
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Originally Posted by miero View Post
thisisvv: impedance of magneplanar 1.7 is close to 2 ohm at 10kHz-20kHz and below 2 ohm at 20kHz
The nc400 is specified to work OK down to 1 ohm.
 
Old 13th May 2014, 09:58 AM   #7478
OllBoll is offline OllBoll  Sweden
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Are you sure you need 1200W, 400W is a lot. It will give you 112 dB @ 1 m with 86 dB efficient speakers. If that's not enough I'd recommend you to turn down the volume
 
Old 13th May 2014, 11:49 AM   #7479
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James Romeyn sells bridged monoblock NC400s: “Bridged mono bloc powered by SMPS1200A400, 1200W @ 2 Ohm”.

Bob
 
Old 13th May 2014, 12:21 PM   #7480
miero is offline miero  Czech Republic
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You might want to read following before considering the bridged NCore... it might not be a right solution with low-impedance speakers.

NC400 anyone bridging it yet?
 

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