...well actually one thing more, I do also question how it's possible to hear and see my Mother in another Continent, some 12000 Miles away in pretty good quality...going through hundreds of Repeaters and other equipment AND various dodgy copper/fibres......yet we have problems with Audio equipment that has a few meters of cable and often high quality components/connectors etc.
This does amaze me, even after all the hocus pocus to ratify why it's different and cannot be comparable 8-/
This does amaze me, even after all the hocus pocus to ratify why it's different and cannot be comparable 8-/
There are times when I can imagine hearing the shark chewing on the undersea cable as I am listening to spotify - but you have to have state of art equipment and listen to a hi-res stream to hear it...
Isn't the difference just called 'real time' ? IMHO, audio data can't afford retries et rerouting like other computing data, human ears being sensitive to phase rotation...
(sorry to interrupt : I managed to remain quite, in 'read-only' mode so far
...)
You know I never really browsed through the Stein site. Until today. Unbelievable, should I laugh or cry?
Suzy wong corks. Improves everything.
Well engineered is one thing, but how about the directional, quantum-realigned, veil-removing day-and-night difference monocrystal pixie dust ones?
It's a nightmare to fix multistrain wire into nc400 speaker terminals.
I tried to fix 2.5mm2 wire, and it seems too thick to insert into terminal's loosened slot, or the terminal's bolt is too short to widen the slot wide enough...
Is there any mating fork or ring crimp terminal?
Sorry to bump in, but would it be OK to use (properly twisted) solid copper wire? I'm bolting the amp modules on the speaker base and using very short speaker cables (+/- 20 cm). So the wire needn't be flexible. And that would be so much easier to fix into the speaker terminal! Or does this approach have disadvantages, other than the lack of flexibility?
A solid wire actually carries more current at low frequencies - and if it is only 20 cm, it really doesn't make any difference.
Indeed so. Having just finished 6 NC400/SMPS600 monoblocks for an active system, the easiest way to get a tight twist AND make it easy to assemble, is to:
a) Use solid core.
b) Make a 90deg bend on the stripped end of both straight wires, insert each into the terminal clamps in the approved 'inside-out' arrangement, tighten enough to hold and twist them out from there.
c) Tighten clamping screws.
Works like a dream, takes 1 minute per, looks good. I wouldn't, however do the twisting with a drill. It's hard to judge the stress on the terminals.
Trying to assemble a pre-twisted pair into the NC400 terminals AND get enough length to clamp properly is like nailing jelly to the ceiling.
Marty
I only used the (4x4mm, so 4-conductor) Van Damme between the amp box and speaker, so speakon to speakon. For the internal wiring I just used no-brand 4mm wire I had lying around, it is such a short distance anyway.
The symmetry and evenness of the twisting is more important than the number of turns per meter. In hindsight, were I to redo the internal wiring, I would follow the advice from arcysparky and use solid wire.
I use this in my speakers and now the amps. It is superb its very stiff and tough and twists really well, I buy mine from IPL Acoustics.
A single core cable using 19 strands of 0.29mm SILVER PLATED HIGH PURITY COPPER with a conductor area of 1.4mm and a PTFE dielectric. This cable is ideal for ; internal wiring of amplifiers, and speakers, and can be used to make a very high quality speaker cable .(WHENEVER USING HU1 always solder right up to the insulation to avoid cable fraying)
A single core cable using 19 strands of 0.29mm SILVER PLATED HIGH PURITY COPPER with a conductor area of 1.4mm and a PTFE dielectric. This cable is ideal for ; internal wiring of amplifiers, and speakers, and can be used to make a very high quality speaker cable .(WHENEVER USING HU1 always solder right up to the insulation to avoid cable fraying)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I use this in my speakers and now the amps. It is superb its very stiff and tough and twists really well, I buy mine from IPL Acoustics.
A single core cable using 19 strands of 0.29mm SILVER PLATED HIGH PURITY COPPER with a conductor area of 1.4mm and a PTFE dielectric. This cable is ideal for ; internal wiring of amplifiers, and speakers, and can be used to make a very high quality speaker cable .(WHENEVER USING HU1 always solder right up to the insulation to avoid cable fraying)
A single core cable using 19 strands of 0.29mm SILVER PLATED HIGH PURITY COPPER with a conductor area of 1.4mm and a PTFE dielectric. This cable is ideal for ; internal wiring of amplifiers, and speakers, and can be used to make a very high quality speaker cable .(WHENEVER USING HU1 always solder right up to the insulation to avoid cable fraying)
I guess the all capital letter spelling makes it even better
Is that an area of 1.4mm2, or a coss-section of 1.4mm? The former would correspond to AWG 16, the latter AWG 15. The 4 mm wire I am using is the equivalent of AWG 10. AWG 16 has 4 times the resistance of AWG 10, and is only specified for 22 A in chassis wiring applications (only 3.7 A in power transmission applications). OK for short runs with the ncores, but I wouldn't use it for longer runs.
The web "design" is very 1995, and indeed, the stuff there is a wonderful flashback to the 70's - transmission lines and ribbons.
I used 16awg PTFE silver plated copper wire in my Troels Gravesen designed speakers. The only difference was that it was black and red.
The bass unit lengths are about 700mm.
I think probably the speakers only handle 150 watts max.
Best place I've found for this wire:
Apex Jr.Home Page
It's only ok for signal but great for power applications, easy to work with and fairly cheap. For signal it's hard to beat Neotech UPOCC copper or silver.
I'm considering the NC500 modules for an active bass section on a speaker I'm working on, I have a few woofers to test but the AE TD15H+ looks like it has the most promise and should be able to cover ~20 - 400 Hz pretty well... Will need DSP and apparently an input buffer too. I have Volt 15" woofers too but that was when I thought I could get away with a much lower xo point, I don't think they will work that well up to 400 Hz. Still might use them for subwoofers... 3rd set is JBL 2226 I had from another project.
Apex Jr.Home Page
It's only ok for signal but great for power applications, easy to work with and fairly cheap. For signal it's hard to beat Neotech UPOCC copper or silver.
I'm considering the NC500 modules for an active bass section on a speaker I'm working on, I have a few woofers to test but the AE TD15H+ looks like it has the most promise and should be able to cover ~20 - 400 Hz pretty well... Will need DSP and apparently an input buffer too. I have Volt 15" woofers too but that was when I thought I could get away with a much lower xo point, I don't think they will work that well up to 400 Hz. Still might use them for subwoofers... 3rd set is JBL 2226 I had from another project.
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