Hypex Ncore

Status
Not open for further replies.
It's all much easier to understand if you remove the simple word 'ground' from the conversation.
Use concepts like:
chassis
circuit common
Safety Ground/Protective Earth
power supply common
input signal common

All class 2 equipment needs to be tested by a safety agency. It's not class 2 after you modify it.
 
SMPS600 G connection to chassis

It appears to me that the SMPS600 does not connect its G directly to the chassis on the metal standoff. Actually, the G is only connected at high frequencies (through a capacitor).
But, if we we wire NC-400 modules according to the data sheet, with the "shield" (which is also power supply G) of the input cable connected to chassis, then the chassis is at power supply G, and Nampon can connect to chassis as well.
One could also do a star ground, with Nampon(s), input cable shield(s), and perhaps optionally. AC ground all coming to a common point. Bruno points out that the star ground approach will not work at high frequencies though (too much impedance) and seems to believe it is of no value.

I have a stereo build in an aluminum chassis, and I followed the Hypex recommended way: Pin 1 of XLR to chassis, Shield connection of input cable to chassis at a different point (to pin 1). Two Nampon wires to one side of a switch, and the other side of the switch to chassis. Wiring/build is Class 2. Works fine with no noise.
 
All class 2 equipment needs to be tested by a safety agency. It's not class 2 after you modify it.

From the SMPS600 datasheet:

The SMPS600 is a high efficiency Safety Class 2 switch mode power supply specifically designed to
be used in combination with our NC400 module

and

This is a Safety Class 2 device. It is very important to maintain a 6mm clearance with all possible
conducting parts (housing etc.) and cables. All parts enclosed by the thick red line below carry
hazardous voltages. This includes parts on the top and the bottom of the board. When the SMPS600
is mounted in a tight space there needs to be at least 6mm clearance or a layer of insulation with a
minimum thickness of 0.5mm between the top of the transformer and the housing. Only use
insulated spacers in the dotted area. The fourth hole should a conductive spacer to improve EMI
performance.

Mounting the SMPS600 on the chassis can be done by using the 10mm spacers. This creates the
mandatory 6mm clearance from the bottom side of the PCB to the chassis without the need for
additional insulating material. However, if the enclosure is limited in height, one shall need to use
smaller spacers and provide a layer of insulation both above and below the SMPS with a minimum
thickness of 0.5mm in order to comply with the Class 2 Safety Directive. If these measures are taken
into account, the maximum overall height can be reduced to 45mm.

How you choose to interpret that is entirely up to you, but maintaining the class 2 design criteria will, of course, maintain its conformance with class 2. And I see no modification to the equipment.
 
Thanks for your help guys.

I guess one of the problems (on my part) is that I don't actually have the NC400s and SMPS600s and associated cables/connectors in my hands yet to play with. Once I do, I suspect it will all become more clear.

That said, I have been reluctant to spend perhaps €1,300 on Hypex parts and maybe another €300 or €400 on case work, only to find I can't wire it all together!

I am sure I will manage :)
 
Input shorted?

Hi Barrows,

I have also connected it up the same way as you. But i get a very low level hissing noise when my ear is next to the driver. Is that normal?

With the input open (nothing connected) the amp will probably pick up some noise from the air, and you will hear some hiss. With a source connected, you will hear some noise form the source, or from RF pick up on the cable.

To test for amp self noise, use a shorting plug between pin 2 and 3 of the XLR jack: I think you'll find the amp dead silent in this case.
 
Hi Barrows,

I have also connected it up the same way as you. But i get a very low level hissing noise when my ear is next to the driver. Is that normal?

When you're doing your listening test, have you shorted the input?

Thanks for your help guys.

I guess one of the problems (on my part) is that I don't actually have the NC400s and SMPS600s and associated cables/connectors in my hands yet to play with. Once I do, I suspect it will all become more clear.

That said, I have been reluctant to spend perhaps €1,300 on Hypex parts and maybe another €300 or €400 on case work, only to find I can't wire it all together!

I am sure I will manage :)

They come with complete cable sets. Unless you think you need to shorten the cables, you simply
- plug the PSU cable between the SMPS600 and the nCore
- wire up the input cable to the back of your input socket; decide what you're doing with the nampon signal; and plug the other end into the nCore
- wire up the (2 core) mains cable to the back of your mains inlet and plug the other end into the SMPS

I also mounted a 2 pole double-throw switch with inbuilt bicolour LED on the front panel. I wired 1 pole to my nampon signal as a 'mute' switch (useful when swapping cables etc.. And I used the aux supply (cable provided) on the SMPS to power a bicolour LED via the other pole on the switch
 
When you're doing your listening test, have you shorted the input?



They come with complete cable sets. Unless you think you need to shorten the cables, you simply
- plug the PSU cable between the SMPS600 and the nCore
- wire up the input cable to the back of your input socket; decide what you're doing with the nampon signal; and plug the other end into the nCore
- wire up the (2 core) mains cable to the back of your mains inlet and plug the other end into the SMPS

I also mounted a 2 pole double-throw switch with inbuilt bicolour LED on the front panel. I wired 1 pole to my nampon signal as a 'mute' switch (useful when swapping cables etc.. And I used the aux supply (cable provided) on the SMPS to power a bicolour LED via the other pole on the switch

Thanks Chris. Re the switch / LED, sounds like a nice solution. Can you remember which one you used? Did you need a series resistor to drop the aux voltage down a bit?
 
Thanks Chris. Re the switch / LED, sounds like a nice solution. Can you remember which one you used? Did you need a series resistor to drop the aux voltage down a bit?

I think it was this - it was convenient and comparatively cheap
MCM2122TCFW01 - MULTICOMP - SWITCH, TOGGLE DP BI-COL LED | CPC

Multicomp MCM2122TCFW01

Yes you need a resistor - calculate based on the lowest forward voltage drop of the two LEDs, the lowest max current of the two LEDs and the value for the aux voltage
 
Considering getting a pair of ncores and corresponding SMPSs for use as bass amps.

Do they have to be enclosed in a metal box?

I was considering mounting each module and supply on a rectangular copper plate which would be open on the top and sides.

Seems there is not much radiated noise from the specifications but then I could be missing something. The amps would be away from the source components at the woofer boxes.

I am cheap and have no desire to buy boxes if they are not needed. I have the copper plate on hand.

Considering replacing a CROWN K2 and would appreciate any comments by those familiar with both amplifiers.

I would appreciate advice!

Thanks,
 
Considering getting a pair of ncores and corresponding SMPSs for use as bass amps.

Do they have to be enclosed in a metal box?

I was considering mounting each module and supply on a rectangular copper plate which would be open on the top and sides.

Seems there is not much radiated noise from the specifications but then I could be missing something. The amps would be away from the source components at the woofer boxes.

I am cheap and have no desire to buy boxes if they are not needed. I have the copper plate on hand.

Considering replacing a CROWN K2 and would appreciate any comments by those familiar with both amplifiers.

I would appreciate advice!

Thanks,

If I remember correctly they don't strictly need a box as they are Class II compliant, or if you have a box it doesn't have to be conductive. The modules have lethal voltages so personally I would enclose it anyway. You can get decent boxes form ebay for 50$ or less including shipping, you can't be too cheap for that. But for me it is mostly that I promised myself I will never compromise on safety, which is why I also always connect earth to the chassi even if I don't have to.

ADDITION: The Hypex Plate amps for example are only a metal plate, but in this case the speaker box hides it form roaming fingers =)

Second addition: The NCore is overkill in the bass, it shines in the mid-high frequencies so as you are cheap the UcD is good enough in the bass and much cheaper. The designer of the NCore, Bruno has said this earlier in the thread ( that the advantage of the NCore is not in the bass, he didn't mention the pricing ;) ).
 
Last edited:
The smps has mains voltages. I'm sure it's intended to be enclosed, as ollboll has indicated.

And I'd rather there was something to nominally prevent stuff from accidentally falling on the circuit

I don't believe they need cases for screening. Bruno has been quite adamant about low rfi being an inherent part of the circuit design and not the packaging
 
Considering getting a pair of ncores and corresponding SMPSs for use as bass amps.

Do they have to be enclosed in a metal box?

I was considering mounting each module and supply on a rectangular copper plate which would be open on the top and sides.

Seems there is not much radiated noise from the specifications but then I could be missing something. The amps would be away from the source components at the woofer boxes.

I am cheap and have no desire to buy boxes if they are not needed. I have the copper plate on hand.

Considering replacing a CROWN K2 and would appreciate any comments by those familiar with both amplifiers.

I would appreciate advice!

Thanks,

I'm running the ncore mounted vertical under the SMPS 600 on a thick piece of aluminum in wooden boxes, open top and bottom for ventilation, like to keep temperature down for electronics, would never use a closed box anyway, but the Crown K2 gets so much more hot of course ( never made comparison soundwise )

never had any problems with noise, dead silent, full range with my 108db/w horns and different sources close to ncores
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone could you point if something like this can be tried, will be safe for the amps, or its not that a good idea to power some sennheiser 300 ohms cans?.

Speaker_to_Headphone_Attenuator_TRS.png


Sorry if its too silly an thanks
 
Hello everyone could you point if something like this can be tried, will be safe for the amps, or its not that a good idea to power some sennheiser 300 ohms cans?.

To start with, it is definitely not a good idea to ground the negative speaker output, but it is also not a great idea to burn away all your output power in those resistors. Playing at full volume would probably result in smoke from the resistors.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.