DC Trigger for Standby
Thanks to everybody who gave me some directions to find a XLR cable for connection with my Ncores. I finally settled on Sommer Cable from Germany.
While waiting for my Wyred 4 Sound preamp to arrive from California I have another question to all the people in this threat who are much more experienced than myself with DIY stuff. The W4S STP-SE has 2-12 Volt DC Triggers for the connected amps. But I don't really know how you would connect these triggers with my two SMPS to have them go into standby when I turn off the preamp and to switch on again when I power the STP up. I understand that the J1:1 pin of the SMPS is somehow connected to it. But what do you do with the second cable?
Thanks to everybody who gave me some directions to find a XLR cable for connection with my Ncores. I finally settled on Sommer Cable from Germany.
While waiting for my Wyred 4 Sound preamp to arrive from California I have another question to all the people in this threat who are much more experienced than myself with DIY stuff. The W4S STP-SE has 2-12 Volt DC Triggers for the connected amps. But I don't really know how you would connect these triggers with my two SMPS to have them go into standby when I turn off the preamp and to switch on again when I power the STP up. I understand that the J1:1 pin of the SMPS is somehow connected to it. But what do you do with the second cable?
I googled your quoted post and found the Audiogon thread.
what seemed funny is that he says people should give up looking at Bruno like at some kind of guru and then goes on saying that a certain guy is "the best class D designer in Europe" or something like that. not that Bruno is a guru, but it's ridiculous to say "look people, don't believe that false guru, I'll tell you who's the real guru".
what seemed funny is that he says people should give up looking at Bruno like at some kind of guru and then goes on saying that a certain guy is "the best class D designer in Europe" or something like that. not that Bruno is a guru, but it's ridiculous to say "look people, don't believe that false guru, I'll tell you who's the real guru".
Probably would not work how you want. The preamp is probably outputting the 12V only when it is on. The SMPS standy requires the voltage to go into standby.
Bruno's list of accomplishments speaks for itself. And I think he is only getting started....
Doh.... thanks for that! I have been looking at rebuilding my hifi, with a SMPS/Ncore monoblock at each speaker and an Audiolab 8200cdq preamp, much because it has 12V trigger outputs for remote control.
So in order to put the SMPS into standby I have to invert the 12V trigger, which means I need another power supply....
I don't think Bruno would appreciate to be considered as a Guru ! Bruno is a talentuous and experienced engineer, working with a scientific approach. He calculate, not smell, he demonstrate, not pretend.
His AES paper about one bit power converters (no feedback) is very promising and we can expect soon to be rid of all the 'audiophile" analog bul.hit in the near future.
His AES paper about one bit power converters (no feedback) is very promising and we can expect soon to be rid of all the 'audiophile" analog bul.hit in the near future.
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There are no absolute 'guru's. No-one has all of the answers comfortably under their belt, otherwise they would be building superbly convincing systems that everyone would rush to buy. Everyone has some of the answers, and perhaps some feel they know a bit more than others -- even I have been known at silly moments to think that ... 
,
The truth is that audio is a tough gig, because the ear/brain is very sensitive, very "smart" and very dumb at the same time. It can pick out the minutest defect in a cacophany of sound if it chooses to be irritated by it; or, be in raptures listening to the most mediocre sound system because the mind has chosen to "go with flow" and ignore the atrocious levels of distortion, frequency response problems, etc, for that moment.
The only worthwhile, meaningful way forward is to gather together all the best ideas, discard not a single one that may be useful, and have them all on tap, to use to tweak a system until it works well enough to suit the individual. The idea that one person's thinking is the "way", the only or best way is not good thinking, to me ...
Frank
, The truth is that audio is a tough gig, because the ear/brain is very sensitive, very "smart" and very dumb at the same time. It can pick out the minutest defect in a cacophany of sound if it chooses to be irritated by it; or, be in raptures listening to the most mediocre sound system because the mind has chosen to "go with flow" and ignore the atrocious levels of distortion, frequency response problems, etc, for that moment.
The only worthwhile, meaningful way forward is to gather together all the best ideas, discard not a single one that may be useful, and have them all on tap, to use to tweak a system until it works well enough to suit the individual. The idea that one person's thinking is the "way", the only or best way is not good thinking, to me ...
Frank
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So far I haven't had reason to doubt the measurements and specifications hypex has published. What specific measurements are you interested in - I might find time to dig out my spectrum analyser at some point...
How many DIY guys have an Audio Precision analyzer you think?
My old Agilent wide-band one is pretty good for HF/RF work. Not good enough in terms of low noise to compare to something like the AP...
How many DIY guys have an Audio Precision analyzer you think?
Well, looking at some other threads, some people seem to have access to (work, home, or otherwise) some pretty good measurement equipment.
I have no reason to doubt Hypex either. But, well, for instance, how well does nCore do with 1 ohm load? According to datasheet nCore should be able to handle it, but how much juice is coming out is a mystery. In general a power cube analysis would be great.
My bet is on the nCore producing 575 W into 1 ohm, as the current limit kicks in at 24 A...
Just for the interest and enthusiasm
Yeah, its a "mine is bigger than yours" type of discussion...
And the answer to that is "the current limiter kicks in at 23-26 A".
In the "Recommeded operating conditions" minimum load impedance is specified as 1 ohm - so anything above that is clearly OK. Below that you are operating out of spec
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