Unlike the trigger for ICEpower, the 'disable' switch for Abletec's module is actually a disable. 5V will disable the amplifier, so you will need to come up with a PCB that brings the trigger to ground or 0V when a 12V trigger is connected and turned on, and supplies a very low current when the triggering device is turned off.
i hope someone can help me with this
for the abletec alc1000 modules, the gain is 33.5
i would like to drop that to more comfortable levels like 28db, how can i do this?
would a H-pad work, this is a term i found online, and i am not 100% sure how this works, but 33.5 is way too much, and i rather not attach a attenuator outside of the amp.
for the abletec alc1000 modules, the gain is 33.5
i would like to drop that to more comfortable levels like 28db, how can i do this?
would a H-pad work, this is a term i found online, and i am not 100% sure how this works, but 33.5 is way too much, and i rather not attach a attenuator outside of the amp.
Hi, Im in the process of building one of these. Just waiting for parts to arrive.
I was wondering if it would be possible to use the 12v trigger from the processor to switch a relay in this power amp using a basic 3.5mm mono jack wired up to suitable relay and in turn to the mains IEC connector.
Im not clued up on electronics in the slightest though.
Would the relay liely introduce unwanted noise in to the circuit and affect its performance?
I was wondering if it would be possible to use the 12v trigger from the processor to switch a relay in this power amp using a basic 3.5mm mono jack wired up to suitable relay and in turn to the mains IEC connector.
Im not clued up on electronics in the slightest though.
Would the relay liely introduce unwanted noise in to the circuit and affect its performance?
Hei Svein,
Where did you buy these cases? They look good and have solid cooling ribs.
I've looked for cases at Modushop and the only one that fits ALC1000 well is GALAXY Maggiorato, but it probably can't take much heat.
modushop.biz
hi i have mine built in the Galaxy Maggiorato, and after 5-6 hrs, they are very cool to touch.
Those cases are from TAKACHI ELECTRONICS ENCLOSURE CO., LTD.
the cases that he used from takachi were the HY88-23-23BB
http://www.takachi-enclosure.com/data/c1213/c_en_p151-152_155-156.pdf
and current price, i inquired a week or so ago is $100.39 USD per case
and shipping pretty much starts at $100 USD
i bought a few cases from takachi, not the HY series, bought the HIT and MS series, and found that overall quality of takachi is lower then modu
Thanks for the answer!
So something like the Galaxy Maggiorato with 230 mm (width) x 280 mm (depth) should work fine with ALC1000 then.
The ones from takachi do look nicer, but at a higher price as well.
mine were the 230x230mm, you can see the picture i posted above, that is the alc1000 inside the galaxy maggiorato 230x230
i applied thermal paste on all outside surfaces of the alc1000, and it touches my case on all sides.
Last edited:
Hey , thanks for posting, I asked Svein about his cases a few days ago but hadnt got round to emailing them for a quote. It does sound expensive.
Im intrigued by the Modu cases though, esp at the lower price and the customisation available.
Dont suppose any of you have sussed out the standby function? or 12v trigger?
I just got some ALC0240 modules, I would like to run them in bridged mode with unbalanced sources. I am thinking of using a jensen jt-11p-1 transformer for isolation and to convert RCA to balanced.
But, then what do I need to connect the output of the transformer to on the amp board? I understand that one channel is internally wired inverted for the rail pumping issue. Thoughts?
Thanks
V
But, then what do I need to connect the output of the transformer to on the amp board? I understand that one channel is internally wired inverted for the rail pumping issue. Thoughts?
Thanks
V
fix that input issue all the way 'round
Lundahl, Cinemag, or Jensen should be able to help with this.
Cheers
You might consider using an input transformer with a 2:1 windings ratio, this would provide a -6 dB voltage transformation - giving you an effective gain of 27.5 dB (squarely in the 26-29 dB range commonly used). And, your driving preamp would now 'see' about a 40k load impedance - going by the report of a nominal 10-12k for the native amp. And, you would have complete galvanic isolation too
Lundahl, Cinemag, or Jensen should be able to help with this.Cheers
My exprience of ALC1000 is.
I started using the module about 4 month ago
But the real time I used it is just around a month.
It's because I had to send them back to profusion for RMA.
I've sent it twice,. First was because of faulty switch, module was damaged, Second, the module I got as a replacement made buzzing sound from the module itself so I sent it one more time.
For the first time,, RMA was quick and easy,, second RMA,, the sales manager started not answering, with my several times of email, No answer.. I just sent them for RMA because it was under warranty. Again, the module was damaged, ( by me,, because of faulty switch again.. the switch seems to be very weak, now I realise that) I send him again politely for another RMA. Wether I pay for repairment or replacement, I would wilingly do so, but just no reply. I sent him once again for the RMA,, No replies so far. I am very angry now for their attitude for customers. That module is for DIY, which means damage can be caused by mistakes, not knowingly. If they ask for the repairment fair,, That's fine. But no response at all is very annoying.
The sound itself is good. Very powerful at the bottom. Tight grip to the bass. Neat high sounds. Compared to Hypex Ncore NC400, I find Ncore's have wider sound stage. More revebs than ALC1000. ALC100 is more focused in the middle. Hypex Ncore400 -gain 26.5 ALC1000-33.5 a bit high to match with Pre amplifiers. The difficulty to assemble is... ALC1000 is easier to make monoblocks but it seems to be more volnerable to groundloofs. More volnerable to hums. That might be the case because it has higher gain. No detailed manual with ALC1000. But twice cheper with more power.
If you are considering getting a pair of ALC1000, be careful when conneting standbypin and disable pin. Do what you can not to damage the module - once is ok. twice of RMA -- you might expirience no replies from them.
Lastly,, Letting ALC1000 be on standby mode can make ongoing noise from the module. In standby mode, the module keeps making weak noise from the module- seems that it comes out from the capasitor.
Overally,, I think it is worth the money,, Price is more reasonable than Hypex or ICE modules.
I started using the module about 4 month ago
But the real time I used it is just around a month.
It's because I had to send them back to profusion for RMA.
I've sent it twice,. First was because of faulty switch, module was damaged, Second, the module I got as a replacement made buzzing sound from the module itself so I sent it one more time.
For the first time,, RMA was quick and easy,, second RMA,, the sales manager started not answering, with my several times of email, No answer.. I just sent them for RMA because it was under warranty. Again, the module was damaged, ( by me,, because of faulty switch again.. the switch seems to be very weak, now I realise that) I send him again politely for another RMA. Wether I pay for repairment or replacement, I would wilingly do so, but just no reply. I sent him once again for the RMA,, No replies so far. I am very angry now for their attitude for customers. That module is for DIY, which means damage can be caused by mistakes, not knowingly. If they ask for the repairment fair,, That's fine. But no response at all is very annoying.
The sound itself is good. Very powerful at the bottom. Tight grip to the bass. Neat high sounds. Compared to Hypex Ncore NC400, I find Ncore's have wider sound stage. More revebs than ALC1000. ALC100 is more focused in the middle. Hypex Ncore400 -gain 26.5 ALC1000-33.5 a bit high to match with Pre amplifiers. The difficulty to assemble is... ALC1000 is easier to make monoblocks but it seems to be more volnerable to groundloofs. More volnerable to hums. That might be the case because it has higher gain. No detailed manual with ALC1000. But twice cheper with more power.
If you are considering getting a pair of ALC1000, be careful when conneting standbypin and disable pin. Do what you can not to damage the module - once is ok. twice of RMA -- you might expirience no replies from them.
Lastly,, Letting ALC1000 be on standby mode can make ongoing noise from the module. In standby mode, the module keeps making weak noise from the module- seems that it comes out from the capasitor.
Overally,, I think it is worth the money,, Price is more reasonable than Hypex or ICE modules.
Anyone used standby mode?
Anyone tried standby mode with ALC1000-1300?
What I did is to short standby pin and disable pin through a switch.
The manager of Profusion also said that's how it goes.
The problem is.. when the modules are in standbymode, I hear some hissing noise from the modules. It seems that the condenser makes that sound when in standby mode. Is it the case for others too? Any ways to fix the problem?
Secondly, When I switch it off, It makes about three times of short popping noise before the relay is open and completely turned off. The manuel says that when the main voltage is under a certain level, the power is turned off. Maybe that's why it makes the noise. The module seems to try to use the voltage from the capacitor, until it is completely turned off. While doing that, just before it is turned off, the module makes popping noise 3~4times. It's not big to the degree that it might cause the damage to the speaker. But the popping noise is bigger than when it is turned on and bothering as well. Any ideas to avoid this noise when turning off? Should I put another switch for standby mode? so I can put it in standby mode and then turn it off?
Anyone tried standby mode with ALC1000-1300?
What I did is to short standby pin and disable pin through a switch.
The manager of Profusion also said that's how it goes.
The problem is.. when the modules are in standbymode, I hear some hissing noise from the modules. It seems that the condenser makes that sound when in standby mode. Is it the case for others too? Any ways to fix the problem?
Secondly, When I switch it off, It makes about three times of short popping noise before the relay is open and completely turned off. The manuel says that when the main voltage is under a certain level, the power is turned off. Maybe that's why it makes the noise. The module seems to try to use the voltage from the capacitor, until it is completely turned off. While doing that, just before it is turned off, the module makes popping noise 3~4times. It's not big to the degree that it might cause the damage to the speaker. But the popping noise is bigger than when it is turned on and bothering as well. Any ideas to avoid this noise when turning off? Should I put another switch for standby mode? so I can put it in standby mode and then turn it off?
Which pins do you coonect the input signal? From the pdf is not very clear. I'm hoping to recieve my alc0100 board sometime this week.
Can someone tell me how i can claculate the input sensivity 33,5db in volt? My pre-amp (AV-Receiver) gives only 1V output and i think 33,5 db is way too high.
lgo51 said something about an input transformator, so can someone give me a link to the correct part which is needed? Why the hell do they make such high input sensitivity in their amps? Icepower are the same with 1,99v input in the ice 125asx2, i can only use 50% with 1V from my av-receiver with it.
lgo51 said something about an input transformator, so can someone give me a link to the correct part which is needed? Why the hell do they make such high input sensitivity in their amps? Icepower are the same with 1,99v input in the ice 125asx2, i can only use 50% with 1V from my av-receiver with it.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.