Hi,
I'm in need of some help with a repair job and my internet searching has led me here, I'm hoping I'm in the right place (and the right sub-forum).
I have a pair of audiodigit high-current stereo amps that from Autocostruire a few years back. Unfortunately, due to (we think) a faulty PC power supply on the same extension plug, one of them is broken. It turns on and the light comes on at the front but there's no sound.
My electrical knowledge barely goes past re-wiring plugs so I don't have the ability to identify the problem myself, let-alone repair it. It's a nice amp that I'd like to fix, as long as it's not price prohibitive, as I'm using them in a bi-amp set-up.
Can anyone recommend a repairer that would be happy to take a look and, if possible, fix it for me. Is anyone here interested in doing it? Obviously I'd pay shipping, parts and labour.
I'm located in Biggleswade, Bedfordshire, England.
Thanks in advance
Conrad
I'm in need of some help with a repair job and my internet searching has led me here, I'm hoping I'm in the right place (and the right sub-forum).
I have a pair of audiodigit high-current stereo amps that from Autocostruire a few years back. Unfortunately, due to (we think) a faulty PC power supply on the same extension plug, one of them is broken. It turns on and the light comes on at the front but there's no sound.
My electrical knowledge barely goes past re-wiring plugs so I don't have the ability to identify the problem myself, let-alone repair it. It's a nice amp that I'd like to fix, as long as it's not price prohibitive, as I'm using them in a bi-amp set-up.
Can anyone recommend a repairer that would be happy to take a look and, if possible, fix it for me. Is anyone here interested in doing it? Obviously I'd pay shipping, parts and labour.
I'm located in Biggleswade, Bedfordshire, England.
Thanks in advance
Conrad
Hi Conrad. Exactly which amps do you have. Are these the 2020 type?
The 2024 chip would expire if you accidentally touched the speaker wires together whilst attached to the amp. The 2020 chip is said to be "bridged" in the same way as the 2024 and may also be susceptible.
I have an Autocostruire 2020 board that I don't use which you could have at a very good price if you have the same boards.
Rob.
The 2024 chip would expire if you accidentally touched the speaker wires together whilst attached to the amp. The 2020 chip is said to be "bridged" in the same way as the 2024 and may also be susceptible.
I have an Autocostruire 2020 board that I don't use which you could have at a very good price if you have the same boards.
Rob.
the model I have is an APCT100HC, as I said they're a few years old and so they're not part of the current model range.
I've opened it up and I can see at least two things that look wrong:
1) One of the capacitors, a small blue one that sits near the chip and is labeled c2, has exploded. The plastic housing is loose and the two metal prongs and their connector are exposed. It's also distributed what looks to be a load of brown fluff about the inside of the case. At least I assume that's what's done it.
2) The actual chip is cracked. There are a number of cracks in it and some of the surface has come away. The worst crack seems to run about 3/4 of the height of the chip and goes as deep as the seam where it runs parallel to the surface. I'm guessing that's shot.
The board looks bridged. It's a 4x100 board into two outputs. The revision number is 10.1-03/2006. It says class t-amp 4x100 on it and the chip is labelled: taa4100a. underneath that it says MD0612.
In fact, I'm pretty sure that this is the board:
Autocostruire il negozio degli autocostruttori
It looks like all the connections are either plugs or screw fittings, the only exception is the light on the front. Does that sound right? It seems to tally up with what's in the wiring diagram.
Can it really be that easy to swap the boards over?
I've opened it up and I can see at least two things that look wrong:
1) One of the capacitors, a small blue one that sits near the chip and is labeled c2, has exploded. The plastic housing is loose and the two metal prongs and their connector are exposed. It's also distributed what looks to be a load of brown fluff about the inside of the case. At least I assume that's what's done it.
2) The actual chip is cracked. There are a number of cracks in it and some of the surface has come away. The worst crack seems to run about 3/4 of the height of the chip and goes as deep as the seam where it runs parallel to the surface. I'm guessing that's shot.
The board looks bridged. It's a 4x100 board into two outputs. The revision number is 10.1-03/2006. It says class t-amp 4x100 on it and the chip is labelled: taa4100a. underneath that it says MD0612.
In fact, I'm pretty sure that this is the board:
Autocostruire il negozio degli autocostruttori
It looks like all the connections are either plugs or screw fittings, the only exception is the light on the front. Does that sound right? It seems to tally up with what's in the wiring diagram.
Can it really be that easy to swap the boards over?
I do not have that board. It would be a relatively simple job of substituting a new board for the old one if you can buy or find one.
If you need a hand I am happy to do it for you for postage costs only.
If you would like my credentials to make sure I am up to it, I modded many Tripath amps in the "Sonic Impact" craze some years ago, re-built a Trends T-Amp blown up by someone on another forum. Built several Gainclones, both single chip and bridged mono (point to point - no circuit board), Built my current amp a Pass F2 and Pass B1 buffer, modded many CD players and Dacs, built power supplies, modded several PS1's etc etc. If you would like any more info, send me a PM
If you need a hand I am happy to do it for you for postage costs only.
If you would like my credentials to make sure I am up to it, I modded many Tripath amps in the "Sonic Impact" craze some years ago, re-built a Trends T-Amp blown up by someone on another forum. Built several Gainclones, both single chip and bridged mono (point to point - no circuit board), Built my current amp a Pass F2 and Pass B1 buffer, modded many CD players and Dacs, built power supplies, modded several PS1's etc etc. If you would like any more info, send me a PM
I meant trying to source just the IC to fix your board.
BTW, 170EUR for that board is absolute insanity.
Puffin, that's very kind. If I can find a board to replace the broken one (and get permission to buy it!) then I might take you up on that offer. I could likely do the swap over but it'd be nice to have the light working too.
theAnonymous1, I'll take a look for the chip as well as the board elsewhere although with one of the capacitors gone as well I would imagine it's going to be easier to replace the whole board. While 170EUR is a lot, to get the amp back up and running it might need to be done. I had a thought about swapping it for another board but then the amps would be mismatched and the whole bi-amp thing wouldn't work.
Any suggestions as to where I might be able to pick another one of those boards up from?
theAnonymous1, I'll take a look for the chip as well as the board elsewhere although with one of the capacitors gone as well I would imagine it's going to be easier to replace the whole board. While 170EUR is a lot, to get the amp back up and running it might need to be done. I had a thought about swapping it for another board but then the amps would be mismatched and the whole bi-amp thing wouldn't work.
Any suggestions as to where I might be able to pick another one of those boards up from?
They sure do; I completely forgot about them.
17EUR + the cost to have someone repair the board sounds much more reasonable than 170EUR for a new amp board.
41Hz Audio:Tripath TAA4100A chip
Conrad. The chip on the board I have is as I said above a 2020. This is also a 32 pin package. I did some modifications to my board which was not without incident as the quality is not brilliant. I would not attempt to try to remove the chip. The only way I think it would be possible (others may have other ideas) is to cut the chip off and then desolder each pin individually. However too much heat applied or twisting or pulling the pins if the solder is not completely molten WILL result in the pad coming away. Once this happens it is a nightmarre to correct as the pins are so close together. Not one for me i'm afraid.
Rob.
Rob.
hi
Is anyone here capable of trouble shooting & fixing my 2020 smsl 36A Board (12v DC) stopped working after the electrics fused in the room would not power on again - would like to transfer into a larger casing add a toroidal transformer/Bridge Rectifier/larger caps & selector to add more RCA inputs ?
By the way located in London UK !!
Is anyone here capable of trouble shooting & fixing my 2020 smsl 36A Board (12v DC) stopped working after the electrics fused in the room would not power on again - would like to transfer into a larger casing add a toroidal transformer/Bridge Rectifier/larger caps & selector to add more RCA inputs ?
By the way located in London UK !!
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FYI.
Yes, I agree.
I did the same operation for TA3020 .... with succes (& now with IC header).
Relax ..... not fun in 60minutes ..... But in fine, it's music ....
Let's Not overlook that many of these Tripath chips being sold are Fakes.. and poor ones at that.
Where one buys from seemingly has little relevance. I bought a pair from Heljer and despite his claims that his product was 100% Genuine...when received, mine proved to be Fakes... Lovely!
Somebody must have swapped them in transit
Where one buys from seemingly has little relevance. I bought a pair from Heljer and despite his claims that his product was 100% Genuine...when received, mine proved to be Fakes... Lovely!
Somebody must have swapped them in transit
Assume it IS a fake until clearly proven otherwise.
When it says; Made in USA... and /or the Labeling is inked on rather than laser etched ...and /or the Pins are Gold plated.
And if Dim enough to not notice those small details.. the sound is mediocre to rubbish...(OEM Tripath chip sound was good, arguably very good, surprisingly so, Not nearly so good with the fakes) and/or they stop working in days or even hours.
No need to mention that Genuine production had ceased ...by 2006 ...8! years ago.
When it says; Made in USA
... and /or the Labeling is inked on rather than laser etched ...and /or the Pins are Gold plated. And if Dim enough to not notice those small details.. the sound is mediocre to rubbish...(OEM Tripath chip sound was good, arguably very good, surprisingly so, Not nearly so good with the fakes) and/or they stop working in days or even hours.
No need to mention that Genuine production had ceased ...by 2006 ...8! years ago.
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A fake and a copy are two different things. You can't "fake" a Tripath IC since they were the only of their kind! If the IC works with a Tripath circuit design, then it's impossible to be a fake.
When you talk about other kind of fakes like transistors and such, they are usually just readily available, often lower quality parts, with counterfeit markings.
When you talk about other kind of fakes like transistors and such, they are usually just readily available, often lower quality parts, with counterfeit markings.
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