Thanks for the advices,
as I said, concrete comparison will start when the attenuator arrives. So I can connect same CD Player to the T4 as I have done it to the T2 with much better results.
as I said, concrete comparison will start when the attenuator arrives. So I can connect same CD Player to the T4 as I have done it to the T2 with much better results.
this is in fact a new area where I never moved into before. I have to read more basics. There is an interesting thread from member Panomaniac meanwhile existing.
I hope whatever knowledge I may have is useful to you my good sir!
I'm interested in what your results may be.What I mean by level matching is that the amps must both play equally loud - almost exactly. In a comparison like this, the system that is a tiny little bit louder is almost always perceived as "better sounding"
Even when the volume difference is too small to be immediately obvious, our perceptual system will interpret louder as 'hey this is better I like this one' Oh sorry, I really thought you meant a technical issue where some experiences in electronics were obligation.
I think I can seperate the sound quality very well even then when the vol. levels are not exactly the same. For example soundstage and color timbre are properties which can determined easily (for me at least) independent from vol. levels. But you are right: the vol. levels should be as equal as possible to make the decisions more easier and safer.
I think I can seperate the sound quality very well even then when the vol. levels are not exactly the same. For example soundstage and color timbre are properties which can determined easily (for me at least) independent from vol. levels. But you are right: the vol. levels should be as equal as possible to make the decisions more easier and safer.
I'm currently building a pair of speakers for music and have selected the Hifimediy 2x100@4 ohms for the amp, but later on, probably want to expand to a 5.1 HT system.
Would I just get a couple more of the same TK2050s to make the 6 channels (1 for the front L&R, 1 for the rear L&R and 1 for the subwoofer and center)?
Would running a subwoofer and centre speaker on each channel of one tk2050 unit be courting disaster in some way.. given what might be fairly significant differences in power usage between each channel?
sorry if its a dumb question... I'm definitely "learning on the job" here.
Would I just get a couple more of the same TK2050s to make the 6 channels (1 for the front L&R, 1 for the rear L&R and 1 for the subwoofer and center)?
Would running a subwoofer and centre speaker on each channel of one tk2050 unit be courting disaster in some way.. given what might be fairly significant differences in power usage between each channel?
sorry if its a dumb question... I'm definitely "learning on the job" here.
I just got the T4 and I am an AMP NOOOOB. I got the meanwell power supply with it as well. How do I hook it up properly? Im worried about hooking up the wrong polarity and blowing the amp. Also the Input has 3 wires red white and black how do I hook that to my preamp
figured it out
It sounds absolutely amazingfigured it out
Congrats - fine to read that. BTW: didn't you notice any ground hum out from the speakers ? I hooked the T4 up with a torroidal. Maybe this is the problem.
And which speakers you connected into this system ?
There is no hum, the Meanwell power supply works great. I bought the amp to use for a upcoming active speaker build. I just wanted to make sure it was good enough for the project before I bought all the speakers. I tested it with the "aviatrix" diy speakers from parts express, they are the tower version. The difference between my $1000 Onyko receiver's on board amp vs. the T4 is night and day. The T4 has distortion or coloration. It made the speakers way more dynamic and clear. This is my first chip amp, I cant wait to try more.
As you seem to be and me (in fact) are not the experts in techniqal issues I would not stongly explain the differences this way. AFAIK 180 watts per channel in the T4 should not produce any coloration/distortion at lower volume levels. Especially when these are matched with 8 Ohm speakers as like as recommended for the T4 from the designer.
BTW: "coloration" and "clear" should be more contradictory descriptions in audio IMHO
At least the weaker Tripaths are commonly known to distort a bit compared to the solid states. That´s the main reason why the solid state group does not take the Tripaths serious. Member savage could be influenced by such statements and articles before. It makes for me also not sense that a 1000 $ Onkyo amp should distort or make coloration ... For example in the speakers properties a description like coloration stands more for "alive" (high sensitivity fullranges) and he just has taken over this description for the T4 because of the typically "alive" character of the Tripaths.
Some weaker Tripath distorted the freq response because of a sort of an "error" in the output stage in some TA2024 or TA2020 (I don't remember where I read this, I thought in TNT audio site, but I checked without success...sorry), but in other Tripath models (TK2050) and the slightly different ST Microelectronics "DDX" amp chips, the sound should not be coloured at all...I think so because the signal remains digital (pulse width modulated) until the low pass filter.
There's no reason to think that a 1000$ linear amp, only because of the cost, doesn't put some colouration in sound...I think that with linear technology is a lot easier the introduction of some parasitic filtering effect.
A couple of weeks ago I listened my T4 in a friend of mine system made by:
- Tannoy system 8 speakers (at 8ohm, so hi and low bridged)
- Nad 314 (2x35W amp)
- Nad cd player (don't remember model) with Creative Extigy external sound blaster as DAC/ miniMac/ Nad with internal DAC
A quick report:
- Nad amp+ miniMac as source= weak and a bit dark sound
- Nad amp+ Nad cd player with internal DAC=more power and clearer sound
- T4 amp + Nad cd player with internal DAC =even more power (risk of damaging Tannoy, at T4 full power, even if CD player output doesn't reach 1,7V maximum T4 input- no audible distortion at all), better transient, holography, focus. On the other side treble became harsh, bass a bit weak and not so present, mid hided by bad treble.
- T4 + Nad cd player with Creative Extigy as DAC= in 3 words "flat frequency response" , in System 8 range.... Every thing sounded at its place, solid bass, natural treble and mid. In Telarc super CD test the gun shot was astonishingly very realistic!! I've never heard such a quick transient response..
My friend told me that I would had to spend at least 1000/1500€ to get such a good sounding amp..(he has a decennial experience with hifi).
But I've spent 1/10 (about 150-160€)
About hum issue, when I replied to TheDealer the last time, I didn't try to disable the AUX (line-in) channel on my good old Extigy....with all inputs disabled I really can't hear any noise coming from speakers staying about 50cm near one of them (also consider special care for shielding-read my post at the beginning of this thread-, even if I don't know whether is it important. However I put my cellular phone directly on the heatsink during a call, and I didn't hear the minimum noise).
I also read in this forum that a man from Iceland uses a T1 (or T2) in a recording studio...
Just my 2cents...
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Ha. 'Best' is a very dangerous requirement in audio circles as you can always get increasingly minimal and probably inaudible gains for ever increasing expenditure
That said the SMPS-R range from Connex look to be their best offerings. 'Best', assuming no constraints, would be the SMPS800R model as this is the strongest. There again the smallest SMPS300R should be fine in a domestic setting for anything except dedicated power hungry sub requirements. I am thinking of using the T4 paired with the middle range SPMS500R myself, which I judge to be overkill but a moderately sensible amount of overkill.
Actually it is in my context a stupid amount of overkill, as it will be an active project with 3xSMPS500R driving 3xT4 and I know I will only be putting out about 5W most of the time. But refer back to my first comment
Class "D" has little to do with digital (some control circuit might be digital but this don't define the class of an amp), but the signal remains analog.
Class "D", because of A, B, C, D, ...., just the western alfabetical progression.
Some more infos:
Class D Amplifier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Digital - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Best
Class "D", because of A, B, C, D, ...., just the western alfabetical progression.
Some more infos:
Class D Amplifier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Digital - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Best
Thank you portomomo;
of course finally signal (and in the case of T4 and other Hifimediy amps) is an analog signal.. but these amps are an evolution of class D (don't know how much deeply evoluted).
http://www.metatech.com.hk/product/apogee/ddx_white_paper.pdf
What I've understood (in few words) is that signal is converted into PWM signal (so not relly digital, nor analog), than amplified through a digitally controlled class D amplifier, than reconverted to analog by final filters.
of course finally signal (and in the case of T4 and other Hifimediy amps) is an analog signal.. but these amps are an evolution of class D (don't know how much deeply evoluted).
http://www.metatech.com.hk/product/apogee/ddx_white_paper.pdf
What I've understood (in few words) is that signal is converted into PWM signal (so not relly digital, nor analog), than amplified through a digitally controlled class D amplifier, than reconverted to analog by final filters.
Interesting. I didn't knew this particular design but I ASAP will have a look at the link.
BTW iI've found another similar design by NAD, relying on the same idea:
NAD M2 Direct Digital Amplifier (TAS 198) | AVguide
On page 5 & 6 there is a description of the functioning. But, before going
totally offtopic I will find some time to deepen my understanding of the technology.
Thanks for the input.
BTW iI've found another similar design by NAD, relying on the same idea:
NAD M2 Direct Digital Amplifier (TAS 198) | AVguide
On page 5 & 6 there is a description of the functioning. But, before going
totally offtopic I will find some time to deepen my understanding of the technology.
Thanks for the input.
I also hope so...! I want to learn something more, but in this period I'm very busy...
I am currently using a TA2020 amp (20watt) to power my ZEN open baffle speakers and even at 10 o'clock volume, it is already quite loud.
I am thinking of upgrading to a T1 but currently is out of stock.
If I use a T4, I am wondering whether it would be an overkill....... and whether any compatibility issue would arise.
Any comments/advice would be appreciated
I am thinking of upgrading to a T1 but currently is out of stock.
If I use a T4, I am wondering whether it would be an overkill....... and whether any compatibility issue would arise.
Any comments/advice would be appreciated
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