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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: near Bremen, Germany
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Hi,
yersterday I received my new Tripath tk2050 Board from Sure Electronics with 2*100 Watts. After installing I began to test the Amp and I was really impressed by the great sound quality. But then I saw, that the cooling fan wasn` t working. So I had a look at the datasheet (http://www.sure-electronics.net/down..._Ver1.0_EN.pdf) and on page 11 paragraph 2.7 I found the information, that the fan is semipassive. So it should work, when the temperature of the amps increase and slow down or even stop when the temperature isn`t that high. So I made a "temperature-benchmark" turning up the volume to a high level and let the amp work for about ten minutes. But the fan was still not working, although the heatsink was quite hot (I´d say about 50-60°C). I´m not sure if this behaviour is normal or if it causes damage to the amp, can you help me? Thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: near Bremen, Germany
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Isn`t there anyone having an idea?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Have you contacted the manufacturer? They could tell you for certain.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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50-60 degrees celcius is not enough to activate the fan. If I recall correctly, it activates at 80 degrees celcius. You could also install a better heatsink and avoid having a fan at all.
Keep in mind that no matter what the chip itself has a built-in over temperature shut-down at 150 degrees celcius, so there's lots of head room. Last edited by Saturnus; 2nd April 2011 at 11:19 AM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: near Bremen, Germany
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Thanks for your replies. Then I can be sure, that everthing`s fine and enjoy the amazing sound.
As I read in the datasheet, the heatsink is a standard chipset cooler of a motherboard, so I´ll look for a better passive heatsink. A self-made cooler based on heatpipes would also be very nice. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: near Bremen, Germany
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May you´d like to see the results of my work, I made some pics.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Looks like you are using 2 psus paralleled, this is not advisable, as a difference of 0.1v in voltage might create a big current leak (as the wires have little to no resistance)
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Quote:
![]() Good to see you here. I know you are one of the more experienced members here. Could you please give me a recommendation how to solve the missing speaker protection relay of the sure board ? Maybe a link or PM ... |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: near Bremen, Germany
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Thanks for your Feedback.
![]() I connected the PSUs parallel, but why shouldn`t that work? Each of the PSUs has 50 Watts and the boards needs 100W (in my case a bit less, because my speakers have 8 ohms). When the powerconsumption rises over 50W one of the PSUs is at maximum load and the second PSU provides the rest of the power. Or did I get something wrong? The other way round, how schould I connect the PSUs alternatively? The PSUs have a ground pin, but I did not use it, because I read somewhere, that grounded amplifiers (CD-players or whatever) can cause problems like acoustic feedbacks through the same ground connection and that stuff. Also the fact, that the case is completely made off wood (except from the backpanel) makes a grounding unnecessary. By the way I´m solving the coling problem through a selfmade heatpipe construction which leads the heat from the amps through a 3mm heatpipe to a passive heatsink. But it´s not finished yet. But this is my first selfmade amplifier so tell me if you have more improvement suggestions. ![]() P.S. Here´s my entire project diary with much more pictures for details: [Projekt] L.B.s neuer Nachbrenner--- |
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