Hi,
yersterday I received my new Tripath tk2050 Board from Sure Electronics with 2*100 Watts. After installing I began to test the Amp and I was really impressed by the great sound quality. But then I saw, that the cooling fan wasn` t working. So I had a look at the datasheet (http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AB32181_Ver1.0_EN.pdf) and on page 11 paragraph 2.7 I found the information, that the fan is semipassive. So it should work, when the temperature of the amps increase and slow down or even stop when the temperature isn`t that high. So I made a "temperature-benchmark" turning up the volume to a high level and let the amp work for about ten minutes. But the fan was still not working, although the heatsink was quite hot (I´d say about 50-60°C). I´m not sure if this behaviour is normal or if it causes damage to the amp, can you help me?
Thanks.
yersterday I received my new Tripath tk2050 Board from Sure Electronics with 2*100 Watts. After installing I began to test the Amp and I was really impressed by the great sound quality. But then I saw, that the cooling fan wasn` t working. So I had a look at the datasheet (http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/AA-AB32181_Ver1.0_EN.pdf) and on page 11 paragraph 2.7 I found the information, that the fan is semipassive. So it should work, when the temperature of the amps increase and slow down or even stop when the temperature isn`t that high. So I made a "temperature-benchmark" turning up the volume to a high level and let the amp work for about ten minutes. But the fan was still not working, although the heatsink was quite hot (I´d say about 50-60°C). I´m not sure if this behaviour is normal or if it causes damage to the amp, can you help me?
Thanks.
50-60 degrees celcius is not enough to activate the fan. If I recall correctly, it activates at 80 degrees celcius. You could also install a better heatsink and avoid having a fan at all.
Keep in mind that no matter what the chip itself has a built-in over temperature shut-down at 150 degrees celcius, so there's lots of head room.
Keep in mind that no matter what the chip itself has a built-in over temperature shut-down at 150 degrees celcius, so there's lots of head room.
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Hi, the case looks nice. Is the complete wood case the reason you did not take a grounded socket ? But mostly the SMPS have an earth pin. I would in anyway change to a 3 pin socket with earth.
I hope this is not valid for batteries ...
Good to see you here. I know you are one of the more experienced members here. Could you please give me a recommendation how to solve the missing speaker protection relay of the sure board ? Maybe a link or PM ...
Thanks for your Feedback.
I connected the PSUs parallel, but why shouldn`t that work? Each of the PSUs has 50 Watts and the boards needs 100W (in my case a bit less, because my speakers have 8 ohms). When the powerconsumption rises over 50W one of the PSUs is at maximum load and the second PSU provides the rest of the power. Or did I get something wrong? The other way round, how schould I connect the PSUs alternatively?
The PSUs have a ground pin, but I did not use it, because I read somewhere, that grounded amplifiers (CD-players or whatever) can cause problems like acoustic feedbacks through the same ground connection and that stuff.
Also the fact, that the case is completely made off wood (except from the backpanel) makes a grounding unnecessary.
By the way I´m solving the coling problem through a selfmade heatpipe construction which leads the heat from the amps through a 3mm heatpipe to a passive heatsink. But it´s not finished yet.
But this is my first selfmade amplifier so tell me if you have more improvement suggestions.
P.S. Here´s my entire project diary with much more pictures for details: [Projekt] L.B.s neuer Nachbrenner---
I connected the PSUs parallel, but why shouldn`t that work? Each of the PSUs has 50 Watts and the boards needs 100W (in my case a bit less, because my speakers have 8 ohms). When the powerconsumption rises over 50W one of the PSUs is at maximum load and the second PSU provides the rest of the power. Or did I get something wrong? The other way round, how schould I connect the PSUs alternatively?
The PSUs have a ground pin, but I did not use it, because I read somewhere, that grounded amplifiers (CD-players or whatever) can cause problems like acoustic feedbacks through the same ground connection and that stuff.
Also the fact, that the case is completely made off wood (except from the backpanel) makes a grounding unnecessary.
By the way I´m solving the coling problem through a selfmade heatpipe construction which leads the heat from the amps through a 3mm heatpipe to a passive heatsink. But it´s not finished yet.
But this is my first selfmade amplifier so tell me if you have more improvement suggestions.
P.S. Here´s my entire project diary with much more pictures for details: [Projekt] L.B.s neuer Nachbrenner---
Well, lets say you run the board at 24v.
The first psu outputs like 24.1v and the second 24.2v. This means there is a voltage drop of 0.1v between them (this might be autocorrected by the psus, but im not sure about this).
This means, if the wires used to connect psu1 to psu2 have a resistance of 0.1ohm, 1A will flow through them, a short of some kind. This means you lose around 0.1w in the wires.
Imagine what happens if there is a 1v difference between them-you would lose 24w, and the wires would melt.
The first psu outputs like 24.1v and the second 24.2v. This means there is a voltage drop of 0.1v between them (this might be autocorrected by the psus, but im not sure about this).
This means, if the wires used to connect psu1 to psu2 have a resistance of 0.1ohm, 1A will flow through them, a short of some kind. This means you lose around 0.1w in the wires.
Imagine what happens if there is a 1v difference between them-you would lose 24w, and the wires would melt.
Fan activation issue - also
I had a related issue with the same board - my fan would kick in after about 15 minutes of operation, but would just sort of jitter. I measured the output across the fan pins and the voltage was all over the place (AC) - so it was literally trying to go back and forth at the same time! I can only assume there is a bad solder or component problem somewhere.
I eventually wired the fan permanently across the 5v rails. Its almost inaudible at this point and the heat sink stays at room temperature.
I'm new to this game - so please advise if what I've just done is bad form, not cricket or plain stupid.
I had a related issue with the same board - my fan would kick in after about 15 minutes of operation, but would just sort of jitter. I measured the output across the fan pins and the voltage was all over the place (AC) - so it was literally trying to go back and forth at the same time! I can only assume there is a bad solder or component problem somewhere.
I eventually wired the fan permanently across the 5v rails. Its almost inaudible at this point and the heat sink stays at room temperature.
I'm new to this game - so please advise if what I've just done is bad form, not cricket or plain stupid.
The new cooling system is ready and running very well. I just tested the amp at absolutly weird volume level and the fan (for controling the temperature) did nothing , so I´d say temperture is not to high.
P.S. Bending the Heatpipe wasn´t as difficult as I expected. But it´s only 3mm at diameter. Bigger heatpipes aren´t that easy to prepare.
P.S. Bending the Heatpipe wasn´t as difficult as I expected. But it´s only 3mm at diameter. Bigger heatpipes aren´t that easy to prepare.
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