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Old 19th March 2011, 11:37 PM   #11
Javin5 is offline Javin5  Switzerland
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Soft-Start:

Hi souldriver, Luka is right, most SMPS include a soft start feature and you do not need an additional one. However, make sure by consulting the specs.

With linear supplies, I recommend a soft start if you use a transformer with about 400 VA or more. Others put the limit at 500 VA. It also depends on cap size you use in the power supply; if you have a really large capacitor bank, I probably would use a current limiting soft start with transformers of 300 VA or more.

A linear power supply plus soft start is always significantly more expensive than an SMPS of similar power rating. Does it sound better? Hard to say, I`m sure this depends on a lot of things and you may get good SQ with either type of supply if everything is done right. If you search a bit, you`ll find post of Hypex users with linear supplies and with switched supplies and each report excellent sound quality. I have not seen a post with a direct A/B switching, level matched comparison of the Hypex linear supply and the Hypex SMPS, although this would be quite interesting.
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Old 20th March 2011, 05:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
First I would test SMPS and Soft start, so that you know everything is ok with supply
You put AC to softstart, then out of softS goes to smps AC input.

.....

Then you have + and - and gnd to conenct (there also could be some other, if amp needs more then only main voltage)
That's generally good advice, but IMHO the extra soft start circuitry isn't necessary nor does it help in any way when using SMPS (just my opinion). I don't where it would hurt though.

I've built 2 amps using a total of 9 Hypex modules (a 5.1 surround and a 2.1) using SMPS power supplies and there is no surge when the SMPS are powered up nor do the Hypex modules emit any turn on/off noise.

The power supply has (needs) a ground and positive and negative outputs (balanced supply) or you can make one by putting two single power supplies in series.

The data sheets for the modules show the power connections, the speaker connections, and the balanced input connectors. Hook those up and you're done - oh yeah, ground the fourth "control" pin next to the input pins or the amp won't work.

If your input is from a device with RCA outs, ground the negative input and use the positive one for the input. Connect the fourth control pin to ground - no switch required unless you want to use "standby mode". I'd prefer to just turn the power off when not in use. The amp takes 2 seconds to cold start. I can live with that. There is practically zero turn on/off noise.

You're going to love your new amp. The Hypex modules sound great.

If there's something that's not clear - DON'T hook it up. WAIT for help. Reversing the polarity of the supply will ruin the modules (according to Hypex). That would be an expensive mistake. This is more difficult than building a computer. I build those too and all you have to do is plug everything together - no soldering or drilling or painting, etc.

Good luck, take your time, and you will have what IMHO is a first class amp that would be VERY difficult to beat in any listening test. I've done my own and most others also agree. Good choice.
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Old 20th March 2011, 11:02 AM   #13
luka is offline luka  Slovenia
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Ok so here it is

Do NOTE, that I would only connect smps alone, and measure if output voltages are on the right pins. That is on J1 on smps, 2x3 pin connector,
top right pin should be GND, upper middle one +Vcc and bottom middle should be -Vcc. If this is right, then you have something like this

This would be minimum that you need to connect

Red is +Vcc
Black is GND
Blue is -Vcc

On the amps, J1, you need signal on pin 1, left one, and pin next to it, which is signal GND (note that it doesn't say, which is pin1, but you can measure if pin 2 (gnd) is connected to supply pin GND J5 on amp)

Click the image to open in full size.

There could be something else to connect, so somebody else should check what I did, and let me know if it is not ok, so I can change it and repost it (I'll delete this picture and replace it with corrected)
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Last edited by luka; 20th March 2011 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 20th March 2011, 01:34 PM   #14
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I thnk this looks corrrect...

However - pin 4 on the UcD's input connector needs to be connected to power GND (the black wires on the drawing above), or else the UcD modules will not power on. This is the pin that is to the right on the input connector, close to the output pins.
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Last edited by StigErik; 20th March 2011 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 20th March 2011, 03:14 PM   #15
luka is offline luka  Slovenia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StigErik View Post
I thnk this looks corrrect...

However - pin 4 on the UcD's input connector needs to be connected to power GND (the black wires on the drawing above), or else the UcD modules will not power on. This is the pin that is to the right on the input connector, close to the output pins.
Aha, I was thinking what that is... coz there is also such pin on smps, which probably does this after some time, instead of right away
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Old 20th March 2011, 03:34 PM   #16
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The enable pin on the smps is used for turning the smps on and off, its a different use than the enable pin on the UcD module.
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Old 20th March 2011, 03:46 PM   #17
luka is offline luka  Slovenia
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so then you can connect them both to a switch to turn on/off?
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Old 20th March 2011, 04:17 PM   #18
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Yes, but the recommended way to do it is to connect the enable pin on the UcD module to the Auto Amplifier Enable pin on the smps, and the use a switch for the SMPS standby input pin on the smps itself.
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Old 20th March 2011, 09:10 PM   #19
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thanks a lot guys. i am not sure if i understand everything about your conversation....
but i really appreciate your help...
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Old 20th April 2011, 07:00 PM   #20
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Question Silicone or glue?

Hi again
Now i have all the parts. unfortunately this wonderfull case i got just a few days ago i do need to drill holes. Now i have on the left and right side a very heavy ( i guess about 8cm) heatsink. My question is if it is possible to use a glue (which one?) or silicone (for higher temperatur) to put the small Hypex Modules UCD 400 on these heatsinks. What do you mean, is this a good idea or are the modules to "hot" to fix with glues?

Thanks a lot for an idea or any recommandations.
Souldriver
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