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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Hi, I'm new to this and am only experienced with basis soldering.
But I was very amazed about the sound quality of my Sure TK2050 board hooked up to a 30V HP adapter. I used to have a Rotel Pre- and power amplifier but now I use a Marantz PM7200 with my Klipsch KG 4.2's. I use Monster Cable Powerline 2 as speaker cable. I liked the reoccurrence of the details and the switching between high and low power output like I heard before with my Rotel. But instead of buying a Rotel again I decided I wanted to build a high quality basic amp based on the TK2050. I didn't want to use the Sure board, cause I do not now how to upgrade it and was only annoyed by the interference by the onboard fan. Yes I know that I could replace it by a passive Zalman, but then again, I wanted to do it wright. So I bought: 1. A 220 VA toroid power supply. 2. A eBay power supply board with 6 x 10.000uV 50V capacitators and speaker protection. 3. 2 x mono TK2050 boards from Arjen Helder 4. 1 x full black L's Audio chassis with a 4 position selector. 5. 1 x ALPS SRRN142100 3 pole 4 position rotary selector switch. 6. 1 x ALPS 50K volume pot (from Arjen Helder) So my only question remains what inner wiring can I use best for this configuration? B.t.w. I like a clean setup. Thanx, ![]() Ryan. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oslo
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hi
I like cat5 cable for the signal input. Very cheap. Do you have a link for the chassis? |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
What about Cat6, cause I have lost of them. (Solid core) |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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I use 6n upocc pure silver 24awg signal wire and 12 gauge upocc stranded copper wire for power and speaker terminals.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oslo
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CAT6 will work, maybe even better as it is supposed to handle higher frequencies.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Thanx...
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