In Europe these are common prices, and regarding the parts and design quality it is well worth it, still very cheap actually.
Here's rather expensive:
Autocostruire - made in italy audio tools
And then still, it's probably a bit more expensive to have the heating on there in Italy than in China. Just like a human life is less valued over there... Your opinion less valued... Your rights.... You've gotta keep seeing things in perspective....
Here's rather expensive:
Autocostruire - made in italy audio tools
And then still, it's probably a bit more expensive to have the heating on there in Italy than in China. Just like a human life is less valued over there... Your opinion less valued... Your rights.... You've gotta keep seeing things in perspective....
I did not damage the board at all Cristi - it was in careful storage for ages before i got the time to install it, which i did correctly.
Any ideas chaps how to get the sound to my taste?
TA 3020 v4
I've had one of Cristi's TA3020 v4 modules for a couple months now.
All I can say is it far surpasses anything I've tried so far.
I've been a professional musician for over 40 years and I actually use it as
a power amp for my electric (pedal steel) guitar playing live in various locations around this area.
I've gone through alot of power amps over the years (modules and rack mounted). The ones that sounded the best didn't hold up all that well.
Others that held up under the stress didn't sound that great. This TA3020 v4 has outperformed all the amps that I've played through.
The heat syncs generally run only luke warm and the two speed fan only kicks on occasionally.
Another US made module I had last year sounded good but kept cutting off momentarily when hit with a sudden increase in audio signal.
This one doesn't have that problem and it sounds better as well.
I've had one of Cristi's TA3020 v4 modules for a couple months now.
All I can say is it far surpasses anything I've tried so far.
I've been a professional musician for over 40 years and I actually use it as
a power amp for my electric (pedal steel) guitar playing live in various locations around this area.
I've gone through alot of power amps over the years (modules and rack mounted). The ones that sounded the best didn't hold up all that well.
Others that held up under the stress didn't sound that great. This TA3020 v4 has outperformed all the amps that I've played through.
The heat syncs generally run only luke warm and the two speed fan only kicks on occasionally.
Another US made module I had last year sounded good but kept cutting off momentarily when hit with a sudden increase in audio signal.
This one doesn't have that problem and it sounds better as well.
I've removed some personal attacks. If that is repeated, posting privileges will be suspended. Vigorous debates about technical matters are encouraged.
@Jsganz, there are always the lucky ones, being happy... And surely you are, the Tripath chip to be grateful for. Without this good heart in your amp it would not be a fraction as good performing.... And there are great protecion circuits in this amp, but all I can say is there are even much better ones around...
Actually, despite Cristi's accusations of me making wiring mistakes, etc. (Which really used to wind me up,) (A chimp with a basic knowledge of electrical circuits could not wire-up these modules incorrectly,) I am warming to the sound a little. Maybe now it's had many many many hours of running-in, it's "hardening" a little? Whereas it used to sound very loose and vague, especially in the mid ranges.
I've noticed that the input caps could possibly be changed, but what kind of caps should i be looking at? Any ideas chaps? Could some make of speaker cable be used to tighten the mid ranges a little? (I've had this cable for over 15 years, it's biwire, can't even remember the make!)
The speakers are Gale Model 4's (floorstanders with 3Kg of kiln-dried sand in a special enclosure at the base of the speakers - they date from 1995. They sounded fantastic with my old amp.)
I tried a pair of Monitor Audio Bronze B4's and the mid-range was GHASTLY! It was almost as if I had layers of cotton wool in my ears! They'll be going back to ebay!
edit: I have no bitterness with you Cristi, as you said earlier, "I'm still annoyed." Well, I'm not actually. I just want to move forwards and get this amp thoroughly sorted.
I've noticed that the input caps could possibly be changed, but what kind of caps should i be looking at? Any ideas chaps? Could some make of speaker cable be used to tighten the mid ranges a little? (I've had this cable for over 15 years, it's biwire, can't even remember the make!)
The speakers are Gale Model 4's (floorstanders with 3Kg of kiln-dried sand in a special enclosure at the base of the speakers - they date from 1995. They sounded fantastic with my old amp.)
I tried a pair of Monitor Audio Bronze B4's and the mid-range was GHASTLY! It was almost as if I had layers of cotton wool in my ears! They'll be going back to ebay!
edit: I have no bitterness with you Cristi, as you said earlier, "I'm still annoyed." Well, I'm not actually. I just want to move forwards and get this amp thoroughly sorted.
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AVX polyester input caps I find great, but you may find differently.... Try to avoid the really large capacitors everybody is raving about with ridiculously high voltage ratings, or perhaps I was unlucky to have only noisy ones that sounded bloated...
These amps certainly have to grow on you for a bit, I thought you knew that!
As for the speaker cable religion stuff, I have around 25 years of experience with the best of the best cables by having worked for and still now having friends working in the field. And no, there is no magic, there are some basic rules that make a cable good, and further any fairly OK cable has LRC parasitics that can only degrade the sound in the gigaherz range. I help you hoping you have ears that sensitive, on the other hand not because it would only make you go crazy!
These amps certainly have to grow on you for a bit, I thought you knew that!
As for the speaker cable religion stuff, I have around 25 years of experience with the best of the best cables by having worked for and still now having friends working in the field. And no, there is no magic, there are some basic rules that make a cable good, and further any fairly OK cable has LRC parasitics that can only degrade the sound in the gigaherz range. I help you hoping you have ears that sensitive, on the other hand not because it would only make you go crazy!
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Thanks v-bro 
Very helpful, I will try these AVX polyester input caps, do you have any links for 2.2uF types? Here is a schematic showing the input caps (circled in red.)
Looking at the location of these: (outlined in red)
I'm assuming they need to be mounted slightly off-board due to their size...... should i be concerned about any interference by running the capacitor leads exposed? I suppose I'm worried about parasitics, etc.......
Very helpful, I will try these AVX polyester input caps, do you have any links for 2.2uF types? Here is a schematic showing the input caps (circled in red.)
Looking at the location of these: (outlined in red)
I'm assuming they need to be mounted slightly off-board due to their size...... should i be concerned about any interference by running the capacitor leads exposed? I suppose I'm worried about parasitics, etc.......
It's a bit of a practical joke...
@ Data_Lore:Farnell sells them... Take care choosing the right pitch distance...
Epcos B32520C225J is available in the UK at Farnell, also quite nice, but again check the pitch distance to ensure they fit nicely!
EPCOS|B32520C225J|CAPACITOR POLYESTER FILM 2.2UF | Farnell United Kingdom
EPCOS|B32521C225J|CAPACITOR POLYESTER FILM 2.2UF | Farnell United Kingdom
EPCOS|B32520C225J|CAPACITOR POLYESTER FILM 2.2UF | Farnell United Kingdom
EPCOS|B32521C225J|CAPACITOR POLYESTER FILM 2.2UF | Farnell United Kingdom
I do recommend you measure the distance between the holes once more and check if it nicely matches with the proposed caps, I can't see the real size from the picture you posted....
Hi V-bro, I'm not biased and I don't care at all in joining a dispute.. however, since I have several T-amps of both 41Hz (if you wish I can easily prove this) and Cristi I would like to say my opinion. Firstly it's not the input cap in itself that could damage the amp, it's the feedback of the energy radiated by the switching mosfets that could do it.. most of the high-end caps are big and are very nice antennas, put them on the inputs and you've a very nice HF power oscillator in no time. Moreover, I read that Cristi's amplifiers are Harsh .. vague on the midrange.. I have to say I totally disagree with this judgement.. I bought 3 version v3b and 4 of version v2 and I have to say they sound outstanding in my opinion. I have a v2 that I'm using since more than one year now and had NEVER an issue.. (after hours of listening at high volume it gets barely warm) since I've so much success with these amps I would not say I'm the "lucky one"..
If someone have problems of amplifier overheating or if the sound is harsh it's because the amplifier is self-oscillating.. and this is a weakness of the T-amps as a whole.. assembling these amps in a container is not just piece-of-cake as with the class AB ones.. The grounding it's very important as well as the power supply being used and the layout of the cables.. If you use a switching PS and you place the amp too near or you place the input cables so that they pickup the switching noise you'll have exactly the behavior described, the amplifier self oscillates, the output toroids get hot, the sound is distorted. It happened to me as well in the beginning with the first v3b I bought from Cristi (and with an AMP15 as well) now that I'm using linear PS with some tricks the issue disappeared completely. Another common mistake is to place very high capacity electrolytic capacitors on the supply rails (especially when using SMPS) as this could render the PSU unstable or cause the rails to pickup (again) radiated noise..
Obviously playing with electronics requires some skills.. and not everybody able to buy an amplifier on the internet is then able to assemble it in the right way.
If you wish I can provide some tips that helped me a lot dealing with these kind of amps.
My opinion is that 41Hz and Connexelectronics amps are both valuable products and, according to my listening ability their sound imprint is very very very close and for sure better than any previous Class AB I built.
If someone have problems of amplifier overheating or if the sound is harsh it's because the amplifier is self-oscillating.. and this is a weakness of the T-amps as a whole.. assembling these amps in a container is not just piece-of-cake as with the class AB ones.. The grounding it's very important as well as the power supply being used and the layout of the cables.. If you use a switching PS and you place the amp too near or you place the input cables so that they pickup the switching noise you'll have exactly the behavior described, the amplifier self oscillates, the output toroids get hot, the sound is distorted. It happened to me as well in the beginning with the first v3b I bought from Cristi (and with an AMP15 as well) now that I'm using linear PS with some tricks the issue disappeared completely. Another common mistake is to place very high capacity electrolytic capacitors on the supply rails (especially when using SMPS) as this could render the PSU unstable or cause the rails to pickup (again) radiated noise..
Obviously playing with electronics requires some skills.. and not everybody able to buy an amplifier on the internet is then able to assemble it in the right way.
If you wish I can provide some tips that helped me a lot dealing with these kind of amps.
My opinion is that 41Hz and Connexelectronics amps are both valuable products and, according to my listening ability their sound imprint is very very very close and for sure better than any previous Class AB I built.
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