Review of Connexelectronic TA-3020 v3b audio amplifier - Page 6 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 2nd April 2011, 10:18 PM   #51
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by v-bro View Post
From the pictures that looks like a solid build Richard.
Thanks Vincent, I thought it was a good layout. The shielding needs to be copper plated, and I'll be adding some more soon......
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 10:29 PM   #52
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
I saw you named AMP15 there in your first post, which is an almost 100% through hole design. Something nice for newbie diyers, an attempt from the owner of 41hz to make these amps more accessible, but off course this makes them less good than a good SMD design.
Don't say THAT ! AHAHAH I bought two AMP7 and an AMP15 (plus two AMP10) and I never read in 41Hz forums such an assertion about sound quality.. For sure your top product, the Truepath, has a very nice multi layered pcb design with very small components on it, but comparing the sound of an AMP7 and a Truepath you actually hear the difference ? Maybe you measure it.. but with boxes a human being can buy you actually HEAR that?

I have to say I've a couple of Monitor Audio that are nicely sounding with both brands of the amps.. I don't think I would be able to distinguish them in a blind test.. however I think I would be able to easily distinguish a class AB from a T-amp

regarding the footprint of the components on the other side of the pcb could you please explain me why it is a big advantage? (and here don't take it as a tricky question, I actually don't know)

P.S: for the FETS sure I used the ceramic standoffs.. however if we're speaking about RF switching does it make so much difference 5mm away? Is it something R&S showed ?

Last edited by sgarbialan; 2nd April 2011 at 10:31 PM.
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 10:34 PM   #53
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
v-bro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
If I were to perfect that lay-out by the way then place the potentiometer all the way in the back,. extend the shaft even more, keep input leads as short as possible, rotate the Connex board 180 degrees, place some thick ceramic insulators between the fets and heatsink so the emitted energy towards/from the heatsink is minimized, then you can freely place the electrolytic caps near the amplifier board, which is beneficial for their ESR value. Then place the toroidal transformer wherever you feel like, usually the best is all the way towards the front panel.

There...
__________________
Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 10:34 PM   #54
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
I thought it was a good layout.
it is.. but in fact if the amplifier is not getting hot it means it's not self oscillating..
However I'm quite surprised about the sound quality you say it comes out of the amp..
electronic considerations apart I've a couple of monitor audio too and actually they sound very well with this amp.. it's so strange..
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 10:36 PM   #55
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
If I were to perfect that lay-out by the way then place the potentiometer all the way in the back,. extend the shaft even more, keep input leads as short as possible, rotate the Connex board 180 degrees... [].... towards the front panel.
I see you approve some of my advices

One only point, rotating the board make sure the cable of the inputs are not near the cables going to the speakers.. probably the position of the board is already the right one.. shortening the cables by extending the potentiometer shaft instead is for sure a good advice..

Last edited by sgarbialan; 2nd April 2011 at 10:41 PM.
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 10:57 PM   #56
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
v-bro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgarbialan View Post
Don't say THAT ! AHAHAH I bought two AMP7 and an AMP15 (plus two AMP10) and I never read in 41Hz forums such an assertion about sound quality.. For sure your top product, the Truepath, has a very nice multi layered pcb design with very small components on it, but comparing the sound of an AMP7 and a Truepath you actually hear the difference ? Maybe you measure it.. but with boxes a human being can buy you actually HEAR that?
Yes I hear that. I shall speak freely as always, also about my definite favorites of 41hz. Which are not mine by any means, I did exchange a couple of ideas at max, but usually blown in the wind by a far superior mind in this respect, the shop owner of 41hz called Jan. My input is a mere very humble input, but yet valued and appreciated...

And no, I don't own the Rhode and Schwarz, they're equipment available at the place I work. I've got lots more goodies there, like audio analizers, wfm monitors, very high frequency sweep generators, tone generators, multiple lab power supplies to just cream your pants on etc. etc. etc.

Now to cut to the chase, I hear it, but does it matter? You see, I don't really hear it with music. I can just determine a different noise level by listening to the idle white noise very close to a tweeter. From normal listening distance and around 90db/w/m efficient speakers it is hardly noticeable though, let alone with music playing.

The resistor quality of even the through hole models is superb, nice thin film resistors with tiny bodies. Then the Connex amps use thick metal film resistors, which cost about a tenth of their thin film cousins....

But I have never had a playing specimen of Connex. I would have loved to make some emission analysis and even listening impressions, but helas....

Truepath is a superb TA3020 design, absolutely. But I have a preference for the TC2001 based amps. That is very personal though, but I have always loved their sound most. Their noise performance is also extremely good. But there are so many poor TC2001 designs around too these days. Like the ones every body is on about that run terribly hot at 20% under their max voltage!! I always laugh when I see the proud presentations of ridiculously oversized heatsinks that look like the empire state building in the New York skyline just after it was built....

TK2350, TK2150 are also TC2001 based chipsets, and GREAT alternatives for TA3020. And then there are the RA-2500 and RA-0105 of Resolute Audio, and the TDA-2500 modulator design of 41hz, which is available on request. These are capable of the greatest things, but it takes a scientist to bring out the max. potential in them. They are semi-solid state chips, which means that almost any value can be tweaked to perfection in your specific design.

If only I had more time and not be busy with broadcasting, video and professional cameras all day, which is my real work....
__________________
Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......

Last edited by v-bro; 2nd April 2011 at 11:01 PM.
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 11:22 PM   #57
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
the shop owner of 41hz called Jan
I know Jan obviously only by e-mail, but he resembled me a very nice, honest and capable person.

Quote:
Yes I hear that. I shall speak freely as always
If you wanted to put ants in my ears you were very successful..

Quote:
And no, I don't own the Rhode and Schwarz, they're equipment available at the place I work.
at least you're lucky you work in the "wonderland".. having such equipments in my hand would turn me crazy..

Quote:
You see, I don't really hear it with music. I can just determine a different noise level by listening to the idle white noise very close to a tweeter. From normal listening distance and around 90db/w/m efficient speakers it is hardly noticeable though, let alone with music playing.
ok, but IMHO this test tells you very little.. and however what makes (always in my opinion) a real difference is the "listening experience".. with Class AB, even some of the nicest, there's always that sensation of "electronic" sound.. thing that with Class T is reduced to almost zero, and this, for me, makes a lot of difference being able to feel the sound with that "live" sensation that makes the speakers disappear..

Quote:
I always laugh when I see the proud presentations of ridiculously oversized heatsinks that look like the empire state building in the New York skyline just after it was built....
Cosmetics in most cases.. ppl that don't know typically associate the capabilities of the amplifiers with the size of the heatsinks.. a Class T should need a very little one since it dissipates only a very little fraction of the power it absorbs.

Quote:
TK2350, TK2150 are also TC2001 based chipsets, and GREAT alternatives for TA3020. And then there are the RA-2500 and RA-0105 of Resolute Audio, and the TDA-2500 modulator design of 41hz, which is available on request. These are capable of the greatest things
very uncommon on the market.. unfortunately..

Last edited by sgarbialan; 2nd April 2011 at 11:39 PM.
 
Old 2nd April 2011, 11:47 PM   #58
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
 
v-bro's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
That test tells you more than you think, if you have heard it side by side you will have to agree....What is a very consistant, distant and subtle "sssssssssssssssssssss" with the one and with the ear to the tweeter is an apparent and far less consistent "srshgsjsjsssjrrzzhshshsgshj" with the other at half a meter.... But still at least as silent as a good AB class amplifier.....

And about the heatsinks I was aiming for a specific amplifier of the brand Sure, of which I am not at all that sure.... A guy here on the forum, also from the Netherlands came by with his TK2050 Sure amplifier and it had such a heatsink on it, enough to cool a nuclear core. But it got terribly hot at 24V operating voltage!! That is not right!! Something must somehow mess up the switching in those amplifier modules pretty badly, but sadly I didn't have the time to determine what. There are a few obvious possibilities though, but I wouldn't dare to speculate until I have solved the issue. I know how tricky solving something like that can be and I don't want to raise any expectations. And the list of possibilities could extend to astronomical lengths as we know, time consuming business it is all that perfecting!

Eventually there will be an evolution and excellent T amps will be available that surpass all the existing amplifiers around now.... So far we can gladly be very happy with what we have now, certainly!
__________________
Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......

Last edited by v-bro; 2nd April 2011 at 11:50 PM.
 
Old 3rd April 2011, 12:11 AM   #59
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Quote:
That test tells you more than you think, if you have heard it side by side you will have to agree....What is a very consistant, distant and subtle "sssssssssssssssssssss" with the one and with the ear to the tweeter is an apparent and far less consistent "srshgsjsjsssjrrzzhshshsgshj" with the other at half a meter.... But still at least as silent as a good AB class amplifier.....
sorry v-bro, probably it's my mistake.. but to me this makes no difference.. if the second amplifier sounds better than the first.. as long as I don't hear the hiss from my seat.. I buy the second..

Quote:
enough to cool a nuclear core.
Probaly that would be beneficial at Fukushima

Quote:
Eventually there will be an evolution and excellent T amps will be available that surpass all the existing amplifiers around now...
Again, maybe it's me.. but after Tripath was thrown out of the market, I see developments of switching technologies that are closer to class "D" more than to class "T".. If you have however notices about developments on the "T" class I would be very interested to know.
 
Old 3rd April 2011, 12:16 AM   #60
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Wow,

I moved the input lead so it wasn't under the PCB at all (it was a little bit originally...) That didn't make any difference...

But I added this loop breaker circuit, here: Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques and it has made quite a bit of difference! The mid range is now a little tighter (how did that happen from a simple loop breaker?!)

Thanks peeps!

Any further mods would be much appreciated!

Here is how the amp looks inside now: (I could tidy it up a little, the loop breaker is fresh!!!)

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Richie B; 3rd April 2011 at 12:25 AM. Reason: added pic
 

Closed Thread


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Connexelectronic TA3020 v3b, A1000SMPS, BIPS - for parts/repair! mx2 Swap Meet 9 21st January 2011 11:09 AM
Amplifier Sony TA-FA50ES Ave_Rapina Vendor's Bazaar 0 27th May 2010 08:55 PM
Connexelectronic TA2022 amplifier with FE167E (94dB/w/m) opinion? lhgin Class D 5 3rd August 2009 06:34 AM
NAD 3020 amplifier volume problems Neilb Solid State 7 21st December 2006 12:44 AM
Sony TA-NR10 power amplifier mikeks Solid State 12 13th September 2006 02:54 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:47 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2