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| Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Found a Velodyne SPL-800 Series II subwoofer on craigslist for $35. Only problem is it won't turn on supposedly. It has a Class D digital amplifier.
I'm thinking this is a valid risk given the 1000W RMS amp...... Could always retro the enclosure if it is in good shape, but if I could fix the amp, what a steal.... any thoughts? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Budapest
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I repaired an SPL-800R, but it was a real nightmare to disassemble the power module. I could do it only in a destructive way, 2 days needed for restoring. The reason of the fault was 3 pcs of dry electrolite caps. These amps runs directly from rectified mains voltage, so if you don't have experience in this, don't risk!
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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hmmmm.... Thanks Pafi.
I'd be willing to ship in the US48 to fix if anyone is interested. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Subwoofer is now in my possession. If anyone thinks they can help, it's appreciated.
![]() http://forum.edesignaudio.com/showth...0.html?t=73760 |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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I am in Los Angeles, so if you are local I wouldn't mind taking a look. But if you have to ship it, forget it.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I don't mind shipping it. It's actually the lightest plate amp I have ever held. If you feel up for it let me know and thanks!
I'm getting ~120V at both boards, and there is ~ -18.63V DC on the outputs which doesn't change with subwoofer volume change. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Do you have a schematic or service manual? I hate working with my eyes shut.
Some of these amplifiers have to be given a signal before they will turn on. Check the manual. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I don't
I did have a signal running to it just in case...I'll see if I can find a schematic..... Thanks bob! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Pics of internals. Only one thing my novice eyes see. Two of the solder joints look dark. Other than that I don't "see" anything wrong and have no idea where to start with the dmm.
Also, the aluminum cage can't be removed without desoldering two chips that pass through the holes, which I don't have the equipment for. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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