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Old 17th August 2010, 12:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davet View Post
Whaleman,

The Home Depot and Lowes have some utility boxes in the electrical supply area that may fit the bill.
Thanks DaveT, I will check them out.
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Old 2nd September 2010, 12:22 PM   #22
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Do any of you that got the MKIII from Arjen have the wiring diagram for the 3-input selector switch? Got the kit and am ready to go, minus this.
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Old 2nd September 2010, 12:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickngas View Post
Are either of you guys going with the tube buffer at any point? I will probably wait until after I get acquainted or bored with the ta2020 amp before I make a decision on that, but it sure looks good, and supposedly makes the amp "smoother" sounding.
Hi,

I have the buffer feeding his TK2050 boards. Excellent stuff. Classic rich tube sound with solid bass. The input caps are ok-ok quality and the tube is made in China but I was impressed with the sound. You could tube roll any of the
12AU7 series.

I don't even have a case. The boards are on the floor LoL. If I were to build them up, I'd build separate enclosures for the modules and powersupply. I am using the Meanwell 24V SMPS @ 6A. Extremely quiet. The voltage can be adjusted from 21-28V so if you build it in a separate enclosure, you could power any future amplifiers that require that voltage.

Sorry whaleman I don't have that wiring diagram.
Some listening impressions...one of the best value for $$. Sound is smooth, tube like, wide soundstage and warm bass. Highs seem a touch too soft though. Detail/imaging is not as good as my Aussie Amplifier Nxv200. Overall I cannot say it is audiophile grade sound, but it is amazing value. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 2nd September 2010, 02:03 PM   #24
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Here is an explanation of the selector switch quoted from Arjen:
The center of the switch has 4 pins in the middle, you can use 3 of them, one for GND of both channels, and 2 for L & R these wires go to the amplifier.



Then if you look from the side in to the switch you can see a moving contact that can slide over 3 pins. If you look further you can see that the switch is divided in 4 parts, every quarter of the circle represents the middle pin, so you can solder the inputs for 3 left channels to one quarter, 3 inputs for right to the second quarter and 3 GND’s to the third quarter. The 4th quarter is not needed.

Hope that helps.
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Old 2nd September 2010, 02:43 PM   #25
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Thanks Kickngas, I will try to make sense of it when I get home.
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Old 8th September 2010, 02:43 AM   #26
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The MKIII is done, almost! Maybe some labeling and some matching knobs will finish things off, but for now I am quite satisfied with the outcome. The sound is great and having the built-in power supply makes a huge difference. Quite worth the effort.

The selector switch that came with the kit gave problems right away, so I had to scrap one from a Pioneer SX-580. I installed an additional Nichicon power supply capacitor brings the power reserve to plus 18,000 uF.

The power transformer is a Hammond 40 volt-amp (10 VAC 4 amps). I installed X and Y class capacitors to quiet the AC line RF noise. Set the DC offset to 0 with the trimpots. So far so good.

Notice the UFO probe outside the window trying to steal the technology already, I guess they don't have the internet.
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Last edited by whaleman; 8th September 2010 at 02:46 AM.
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Old 11th September 2010, 04:41 PM   #27
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Whaleman,
Here is the same case and amp module I just finished. Thanks for the case link you posted.
amp 1.jpg

amp 2.jpg

amp 3.jpg
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Old 11th September 2010, 06:47 PM   #28
bokchoi is offline bokchoi  Canada
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Seeing all the great work in this thread has inspired me to finish my MKIII board (and my first audio DIY ever!)

The case I used is a Hammond 1455T, and my inexperience is probably evident by the poor soldering and wiring quality. I still need to get inside and properly clean everything up, but overall I'm proud of my first project.

Great work everyone, and thanks for the inspiration.
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Old 11th September 2010, 07:22 PM   #29
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Bokchoi,
Nice job! I really like the light behind the volume knob. I thought of doing that after I had already drilled into the face plate. I may put my clipping LED in that spot and place the blue one behind the knob. Do you have more than one behind the knob?
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Old 11th September 2010, 08:32 PM   #30
bokchoi is offline bokchoi  Canada
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Hi kickngas, thanks for the comments! I am very impressed with how clean your internal layout and wiring is, and I wish I had a chance to see how it's supposed to be done before I finished up my soldering.

I placed the 2 LEDs behind the volume knob (above and below), but I had to use 3mm LEDs (expensive!), since 5mm LEDs were too big and wouldn't fit nicely between the knob and the potentiometer; even with 3mm LEDs, the fit in there is tight, and I even initially had a grounding-out problem because I tightened the pot too tightly and it rubbed through the LED insulation. My next project may substitute SMD LEDs mounted right on the aluminum if I decide to go that route again.

I also found that I needed to wire the LEDs into the 12V rail with 150ohms of resistance for brightness, as the MKIII's PWR indicator seems to send very low current and couldn't drive any LEDs with enough brightness to get the effect I wanted. As a result, the front LEDs only indicate PSU power, and I relocated the board's indicators to the less practical position in the back, next to the power switch.

One downside of my implementation is that the LEDs are visible and cast off a lot of light if you look at the unit from the side or the wrong angle; this could be lessened if I trimmed down the pot and brought the knob a little closer to the case, or if I even put a little bit of paint on the sides of the LED so that less light would spill out the side.

In all honesty, if I had seen what you had done for the LED and realized how clean it would have looked, I would have gone the way you did; the end result came out about as nice as I had expected, but the swearing and aggravation almost made me abandon the idea altogether!
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