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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 2nd July 2010, 04:58 AM   #21
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i had to look that up. according to the product lit, JB weld IS conductive as it's recommended to be used as a solder substitute and has "liquid steel"

i'd just use a standard heatsink bonding material like the adhesive tape.

as it stands, i've hit a temporary roadblocks as i can't build my system because the home depot guy that cut my wood didn't know how to measure 6 11/16" *sigh*
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Old 2nd July 2010, 10:55 AM   #22
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It is thermally conductive (better then aluminum). Its a very good electrical insulator. People have been using it to repair antennas and perm attach heatsinks to cpus for years. Its silicone epoxy...
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Old 6th August 2010, 09:16 PM   #23
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Hi- stumbled across this thread. I am looking up info for a friend that wants to use this for a wearable portable music system.

Bridging- this can't be done? He is really tight of funds. Pardon my T-amp ignorance, but why can't you just tie the two L & R channels to one speaker?

Thanks- Kent
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Old 6th August 2010, 11:07 PM   #24
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The unit is allready bridged internally so you can't bridge it again. What your suggesting is paralleling. In theory this would double the power if you halved the speaker ohms. but there's a problem. This would work if you went down to 2 ohm speakers. Since the amp can handle 4ohms just fine at the 13 volts. So your still not doing much.

2 4 ohms speakers, or 1 2ohm speaker. its still the same power output.
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Old 7th August 2010, 07:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightanole View Post
The unit is allready bridged internally so you can't bridge it again. What your suggesting is paralleling. In theory this would double the power if you halved the speaker ohms. but there's a problem. This would work if you went down to 2 ohm speakers. Since the amp can handle 4ohms just fine at the 13 volts. So your still not doing much.

2 4 ohms speakers, or 1 2ohm speaker. its still the same power output.
Correct, and the usual way of getting 2 ohms would be to parallel 2 4 ohms speakers, so you'd have the same power output, so you would just connect the 2 to each their own channel and avoid the potential DC offset problems of parallel the outputs.

There's is one instance where parallel the outputs make sense though. And that's when you want to use 3 8 ohms speakers in parallel. That would make 2.83 ohm technically but such a set would normally only be used in the bass range where the impedance can dip and rise quite a lot so the paralleled outputs would be useful here, and in the bass range a slight DC off set error is less important than in mid- or highrange.
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Old 7th December 2010, 11:25 PM   #26
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Default Dayton DTA-2 Class T

Does this need regulated power (amps/volts)? I want to run it straight off of a cigarette lighter plug on my ATV. It is 12 volts and I am sure it will fluctuate a bit.

Thanks everyone.
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