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Old 19th May 2010, 09:32 AM   #21
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Same problem with valve buffer / TA2020 module, VERY loud pop on turn /off.
Tried emailing the maker Arjen Helder several times, ........but no response whatsoever!
Still trading on eBay, but not too clever with resolving problems. Retired the amp as not willing to damage the speakers!
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Old 19th May 2010, 11:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero One View Post
In my case it is being fed by a separate 12V battery,
how you solved the recharging issue ?? Is there any pesistent charger connected ? I mean with overcharge control ...
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Old 19th May 2010, 05:20 PM   #23
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
But another newbee question from me regarding the way from the cinch sockets of my CD Player to the V2 buffer amp: how to handle with the black mass cable on the board which is shared from the right and left input together ? Cinch outputs have for each channel the separate mass contact and if I am not wrong itīs the outer ring which is mass, or ?
Should I assume that "black mass" is the same thing as signal ground? If this is the case, you can use a small segment of wire to connect the grounds (i.e., "mass contacts") of each cinch connector and connect the black signal ground wire to one of the cinch connector ground connections.

My preference would be to use a better volume pot or stepped attenuator and directly wire the input RCA connectors to the volume pot and the volume pot to the PCB thru-holes where the stock volume pot is mounted on the MkII 12AU7 Tube Buffer PCB. To reduce noise, I plan to use shielded signal cable (e.g., Belden 1855P or Mogami 2368) with the shielding connected to ground connections on the RCA connectors and the PCB thru-holes. I completely bypass the quick-connect 3-pin connector. Before I implement this, I want to see if Arjen can solve the problem of loud pops during turn-on/turn-off.
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Last edited by rhing; 19th May 2010 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 20th May 2010, 12:37 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhing View Post
Should I assume that "black mass" is the same thing as signal ground?
Yes - thatīs correct. (GND)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhing View Post
If this is the case, you can use a small segment of wire to connect the grounds (i.e., "mass contacts") of each cinch connector and connect the black signal ground wire to one of the cinch connector ground connections.
Thanks, the same I did yet before and no problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhing View Post
My preference would be to use a better volume pot or stepped attenuator and directly wire the input RCA connectors to the volume pot and the volume pot to the PCB thru-holes where the stock volume pot is mounted on the MkII 12AU7 Tube Buffer PCB. To reduce noise, I plan to use shielded signal cable (e.g., Belden 1855P or Mogami 2368) with the shielding connected to ground connections on the RCA connectors and the PCB thru-holes. I completely bypass the quick-connect 3-pin connector. Before I implement this, I want to see if Arjen can solve the problem of loud pops during turn-on/turn-off.
you mentioned an important thing. I notice for example a present very light humming from the speakers when no music is playing and I notice much more humming when I touch the vol. pot or the tube. Maybe this could disapear if followed your tips. Or should a battery supply instead of SMPS solve this humming issue also ? Cheap prices lead to use cheap solutions.
I wished Arjen used a bigger pcb with more "room" for extras. Of course I would agree to pay more then.

BTW: I think we both use the matching Mk III TA2020 if I am not wrong.
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Old 20th May 2010, 12:48 AM   #25
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
you mentioned an important thing. I notice for example a present very light humming from the speakers when no music is playing and I notice much more humming when I touch the vol. pot or the tube. Maybe this could disapear if followed your tips. Or should a battery supply instead of SMPS solve this humming issue also ? Cheap prices lead to use cheap solutions.
I wished Arjen used a bigger pcb with more "room" for extras. Of course I would agree to pay more then.

BTW: I think we both use the matching Mk III TA2020 if I am not wrong.
I have the MkIII TA2020 amp, and I am very pleased with it. That's why I purchased the MkII 12AU7 Tube Buffer to get even better sound from the T-amp.

I don't know if a battery supply would do any better with ground loops than an SMPS. You might want to try grounding the body of the volume pot or check how well isolated your cinch connectors are from your chassis.

I agree that a larger PCB would be nice, but the key to a T-amp's performance is to keep signal paths as short as possible, which Arjen has done. If only his tube buffer didn't pop on turn-on/turn-off.
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Old 20th May 2010, 01:27 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by rhing View Post
If only his tube buffer didn't pop on turn-on/turn-off.
why persistent turn-on-off-on-off-on-off- .... ?? Let the amp continous ON.
This is another advantage of high-eff. techniques regarding power consumption.

Best wishes
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Old 20th May 2010, 08:10 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
why persistent turn-on-off-on-off-on-off- .... ?? Let the amp continous ON.
So after the initial POP of turn on, you are saying let it run constantly. Arjen will be pleased that you have solved the problem with his product.
Couple of downsides with your resolve, reduced tube life, higher energy bills.
Maybe electricity is cheap in Germany...............it certainly ain't in the UK.

BITF
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Old 20th May 2010, 01:50 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by borninthefifties View Post
Couple of downsides with your resolve, reduced tube life, higher energy bills.
Maybe electricity is cheap in Germany...............it certainly ain't in the UK.

BITF
So please does anybody has a concrete calculation regarding above mentioned concernes ... ?? I am also interested in those. Sadly I am not the tube expert - otherwise I would had done it by myself.

What I read till now is that pre-tubes live much more longer than power-tubes and the power consumption depends on the gain.
Should I reduce at least the vol.pot on the board when I have finished the listening ??
BITF - you seem a litle bit more expert in that area than me ... could you please give me suggestion ?
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Old 20th May 2010, 06:53 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
So please does anybody has a concrete calculation regarding above mentioned concernes ... ?? I am also interested in those. Sadly I am not the tube expert - otherwise I would had done it by myself.

What I read till now is that pre-tubes live much more longer than power-tubes and the power consumption depends on the gain.
Should I reduce at least the vol.pot on the board when I have finished the listening ??
BITF - you seem a litle bit more expert in that area than me ... could you please give me suggestion ?
If tubelife is 10000 hours, it would equal 415 days if constantly on. I think that not too many people would be comfortable with keeping an amplifier on 24/7all year. if if it only cost you 10-20EUR a year.

But I don't really understand this issue, cant you just turn on the tube buffer before the amp? or does it still pop just by having the buffer there?
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Old 20th May 2010, 07:44 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
But I don't really understand this issue, cant you just turn on the tube buffer before the amp? or does it still pop just by having the buffer there?
Most people on this forum have built integrated amps, TA2020 Amp, Tube buffer and a single PSU all operated by one switch.
When the buffer goes off the amp does as well, resulting in POP!
Don't really want to include another switch in my integrated (no room).

Arjen's eBay site states 'This new product is specially designed for the Tripath TA2020-TA2022-TA2024 based amplifiers as a Buffer stage to add that smooth silky sound to your system'.............or not, as the case is!

BITF
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