Thank you for your thoughts. I think I'll follow your advice and go with two SMPS. I'm still debating with myself -- I'm building very efficient speakers so what I really need is T2 but I want dual T3
I checked jtjy recommendation and I think it will be very interesting combination -- low voltage tube pre-amp + T-amp.
Helder's tube preamp looks good NEW tube pre-amp MKIII 12AU7 fully assembled - eBay (item 260710287509 end time Jan-18-11 18:14:35 PST).
But I also found another one from Indeed Hi-fi lab Hybrid Headphone Tube Pre Amplifier 6N23P G2 Class A - eBay (item 250748620802 end time Jan-27-11 11:20:12 PST).
Did anyone had experinece with Indeed products before?
Juanito, you need to wire a selector switch, something like this switch between your input RCAs and your volume control. This is a 3 pole (L, R, Common) and 4 position. So you can wire up to 4 inputs but can use only 2 if desired.
If your speakers are 8 ohm, you should take a look at T4, not yet available but should arrive soon (hifimediy ???I'm still debating with myself -- I'm building very efficient speakers so what I really need is T2 but I want dual T3
) T4 will have STA517B, plenty of power and will be easyer to power than dual T3.If your speakers are 8 ohm, you should take a look at T4, not yet available but should arrive soon (hifimediy ???
I'm thinking about 2.8 Mk II Ambience version with two Audio Nirvana drivers from CommonSense site Audio Nirvana Full-Range Speakers For Sale. High Efficiency, DIY, Single Driver, Monitor Speakers with no crossover. and they will be 4 Ohm speakers.
T4 is about 2 months away anyway.
I could not find this info anywhere:
Anybody have THD specs for T1, T2 and T3 at different rms power?
One more question:
I've receive my T1 & T2 yesterday and realize that T1 comes with a switch; is it in fact an on/off switch that I can leave it on "on" position (I'm using external switch)?
Tks!
Anybody have THD specs for T1, T2 and T3 at different rms power?
One more question:
I've receive my T1 & T2 yesterday and realize that T1 comes with a switch; is it in fact an on/off switch that I can leave it on "on" position (I'm using external switch)?
Tks!
I don't speak from experience, but I would think that even a TA2020 amp would sufficiently drive these speakers that you're referring to... No?
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Yes, you can do that. It is what I did, see pic below.
Attachments
W.r.t. power, yes indeed, but the TK2050 chipset has better distortion specs and sounds noticeably better than TA2020 et al.
It should be fine to have them... it will help a lot to decide what amp to choose for a given loudspeaker!
Tks Whaleman.
Just two more questions (sorry, complety new in diy):
- Is there an "easy way" to duplicate red & green leds in front panel?
- Is grounding needed for these amps? I'm planning to put them in an mdf/laminate case.
I'm not sure what W.R.T. means, but I definitely agree with what you're saying... My point was only to express that any 2050 amp that he chooses will more than sufficiently power these speakers
Not easy, but you can cut the LEDs so that half the LED's connector is on the board and the other half on the LED itself and solder a wire in between them like an extension. You must mark the polarity as it can not be reversed. Or you may find it easier to just remove the LED from the board and solder a wire between it and the LED. Either way, you will need some skill to do this and keep the same polarity.
No grounding is not needed and you can not tie both speaker grounds together.
Leave board LEDs as they are, and put another ones it's not an option, right? My soldering skill is not 100% clean and I'm just afraid of cut them
Do you know how many volts LEDs are?
I have the v2 TK2050 running on batteries and it sounds superb - only mod so far is MK input caps. Using it with the pot still in place but planning on removing the pot and using an LDR attenuator (LighterNote). Has anyone done this - what input impedance should be selected (does this matter) - any probs to look out for ?- any expert advice welcome
I have a CDA 254 power amp from Class D, and bought an T1 hifimediy amp(80W) with Alps pod, also
I want to try something different configurations, such that
1. T1=Phono Pre; CDA258= amp I have a Grado Gold 1 MM cardridge
output level of T1 can be set within the CDA input margin level, just using volume pod of T1(opinion?)
2. T1=Pre; CDA 254=power amp
By using a pair of pod(blue ones) near the volume pod, voltage output of T1 can be decreased limit of the CDA input level(opinion?)
3. T1=amp1 CDA=amp2
I have a 3-way speaker T1 for mids+tweeters ; CDA for woofers
I have 4 switching power supply unit for T1, (each of ...24V 1.25A 30W)
Criticism Welcome
I want to try something different configurations, such that
1. T1=Phono Pre; CDA258= amp I have a Grado Gold 1 MM cardridge
output level of T1 can be set within the CDA input margin level, just using volume pod of T1(opinion?)
2. T1=Pre; CDA 254=power amp
By using a pair of pod(blue ones) near the volume pod, voltage output of T1 can be decreased limit of the CDA input level(opinion?)
3. T1=amp1 CDA=amp2
I have a 3-way speaker T1 for mids+tweeters ; CDA for woofers
I have 4 switching power supply unit for T1, (each of ...24V 1.25A 30W)
Criticism Welcome
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I am using a Lighter Note passive preamp with T3 and a great pairing they are too
Without the pot, T2's input impedance should be similar to T3, ie 20K which should work well with LDRs if you tune the shunt resistance to be on the low side. Keep it below 2K at your highest listening volume. This should avoid impedance mismatch. When tuning, avoid the LDRs dipping below 40R at all times or risk overheating/damaging them.
With 88dB speakers, max listening level for me happens with the series LDRs around 4K and shunt at 1.6K.
Remember to switch on the Lighter Note before your amp or there will be some hum. This is because with the LDRs off, the amp's signal earth is disconnected and this is not a fault.
You're in for a treat
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