Hi, I was working on a new 2.1 channel amplifier for days. It's DDX and input S/PDIF directly ( so it's a power DAC actually) .
As a system, I add a mcu and HID like LCM, remote receiver and rotary encoder, etc.
I just think that will be another interesting project. Any ideas?
What type of crossover would there be between the speakers and the subwoofer (high pass, low pass, etc.)? Could the frequency be set digitally? If so, then this amp could be perfect for PC users, particularly those of us who listen to music almost exclusively on our computers.
I don't know how the DDX chip sounds compared to the Tripath, but if the two are more or less similar in quality, so much the better. Thoughts?
It's 2nd-order low path crossover, with frequency configurable(by digitally).
It's good in my test, but we will test more when the first sample come out.
Test with a AMT2050 board(just power stage using) and a digital board:
Attachments
Hi, I was working on a new 2.1 channel amplifier for days. It's DDX and input S/PDIF directly ( so it's a power DAC actually) .
As a system, I add a mcu and HID like LCM, remote receiver and rotary encoder, etc.
I just think that will be another interesting project. Any ideas?
SPDIF Input? How would someone use this in a home setup, is this more for a computer? What DAC chip is being used?
I can confirm that from Arjens Combi constisting of the tubebuffer V2 + TA2020 MkIII amp board. When I supplied both with a SMPS (two separate +/- 12 V outputs) I just only notified the ground hum.
Connected a battery which supplies both over its one output terminal resulted in this loud whistle + the ground hum out from the speakers. But the whistle decreases a bit after a while. From one speaker I could notify that the whistle became up and down and finally it was reduced to an acceptable level. With high sensitivity speakers you can hear the whistle from your listenning postition. Very loud ...
But maybe you can help me as an more experienced DIY:
Can it be that a tube is responsible for distortions ? - especially human voices sound scratchy. Without the tube buffer V2 I can definetly listen out more punch and less distortions. I think the tube buffer would fail completely if something is wrong with it, or ? Arjen told me that a tube as reason is rare but potential ... Can you confirm that ?
I also supect the "air spaghettis" acting like antennas. The more you have the more you listen radio
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There are 3 path input S/PDIF signal: Coaxial, Optical(toslink) and USB. sta320 used as DDX chip which can output PWM pair and drive power stage IC.
Why not ? Is it more technical or taste depended ? In pre stage for the most poweramps it makes sense but in the other hand I don´t see any urgent need for at least smooth Tripaths.
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And guys excuse me if I am crossing a bit off topic at moment ...
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nice project. all-in-oneHi, I was working on a new 2.1 channel amplifier for days. It's DDX and input S/PDIF directly ( so it's a power DAC actually) .
As a system, I add a mcu and HID like LCM, remote receiver and rotary encoder, etc.
I just think that will be another interesting project. Any ideas?
don't you want to start a dedicated topic for this ?
Opamps
I don't have any opamps in my system right now either unless you count the various digital and amp chips.
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I think the solutions to your problems are to use separate power supplies or batteries for each component, and then compare the tube buffer to some other volume control options and keep what ever sounds best.
I don't have any opamps in my system right now either unless you count the various digital and amp chips.
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I think the solutions to your problems are to use separate power supplies or batteries for each component, and then compare the tube buffer to some other volume control options and keep what ever sounds best.
Why not ? Is it more technical or taste depended ? In pre stage for the most poweramps it makes sense but in the other hand I don´t see any urgent need for at least smooth Tripaths.
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And guys excuse me if I am crossing a bit off topic at moment ...
Board will arrived next week, but many works need to do before "available".
nice project. all-in-one
don't you want to start a dedicated topic for this ?
I'm just used to come here.Board will arrived next week, but many works need to do before "available".
A new topic might be preferable, since this DDX board you're developing is a substantially different product and it isn't a "TK2050 board," as the name implies. You'd probably get more attention and feedback from a new discussion anyway, since these conversations can get unwieldy after the first fifty pages or so.
Hello to all. This is my first post on this board.
I'm just getting into the DIY Amp community so please , kid gloves...lol
I am very interested in building my first amp with Hifimediy's V2.0 2x100W board. I have spent the last 2 weeks researching which on the many many many boards from as many manufacturers to get started with and this seems to be the one. It will be driving a pair of Reference3A MM speakers.
I'm looking for if at all possible Audiophile audio quality, stability & ease of construction since this will be my first amp build.
2 things I want to do initially & I need feedback as to how straight forward this will be.
1)I will be relocating the potentiometer as I want to put the board in a nice case with a volume knob. It's present location may present a problem with case mounting with the case I have available unless I link the knob & the boards volume potentiometer via a rod of some kind as is the case with my Mission Cyrus retail amp that sits in my audio system presently.
2) I want to replace the signal input plug & wire the input directly to rca input jacks on the rear of the case.
Really DIY baby questions but I have to start somewhere.
I'm just getting into the DIY Amp community so please , kid gloves...lol
I am very interested in building my first amp with Hifimediy's V2.0 2x100W board. I have spent the last 2 weeks researching which on the many many many boards from as many manufacturers to get started with and this seems to be the one. It will be driving a pair of Reference3A MM speakers.
I'm looking for if at all possible Audiophile audio quality, stability & ease of construction since this will be my first amp build.
2 things I want to do initially & I need feedback as to how straight forward this will be.
1)I will be relocating the potentiometer as I want to put the board in a nice case with a volume knob. It's present location may present a problem with case mounting with the case I have available unless I link the knob & the boards volume potentiometer via a rod of some kind as is the case with my Mission Cyrus retail amp that sits in my audio system presently.
2) I want to replace the signal input plug & wire the input directly to rca input jacks on the rear of the case.
Really DIY baby questions but I have to start somewhere.
Why not use 20000uF?
35V is enough for your usage.
OK, implemented this.. of course hard to quantify but I think the amp can pour out a lot more definate bass now!
But then I know I've increased the capacitance from 4700uF to 24700uF.
Here is a picture of my fairly basic enclosure setup (electronics store instrument enclosure):
its the enclosure (and extra capacitors + transformer) repurposed from my dead YuanJing module
All fits very nicely. I'm using a bamboo chopstick stuck on with hotglue as the rail to attach the extra caps to.
Now I'm really enjoying the amp.. it's very quiet, very clear, and can put out quite heavy bass with my econowave speakers.
good stuff!
This will be straight forward. Unsolder the onboard pot, relocate where you want, but preferably not too far, and use shielded wire. I would replace the provided pot by an ALPS, but this might be a minor improvement.
For input signal: in the box comes a 20cm cable as shwown on hifimediy.com web site. There is also in the box an additional molex plug with no cable, so that you can build your own cable if you wish. You can also solder directly to the board pins if you don't want to use molex plug. Last alternative is to purchase the already made 4USD cable with two RCA provided on the website.
Thanks for the great answers.
I'll probably initially going with a toroidal transformer (Antek - AN-4228) for power.
Any pitfalls going this route?
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