Hi, actually we use the "Fault" states on board in the protection circuit. If there is a "Fault", the relays will be turned off immediately. But I hope there will be not more than 2 LEDs on board, It's a little complicated to watch.
I know I know ...Hi, actually we use the "Fault" states on board in the protection circuit. If there is a "Fault", the relays will be turned off immediately. But I hope there will be not more than 2 LEDs on board, It's a little complicated to watch.
Steinar spoke about the harmony of the color choices. If you cannot see them (placed in a case) what makes the sense ?
For example Arjen places connection points for the cables with the LED in the end. If you put the board in a suitable case (what many of us wish to do) it is very comfortable to draw the ready wired LEDs to the prefered point of the case. Beautiful cases - beautiful lights ...
Forget this board - I am talking about improvements for your next boards. If I put this board in a case I just need at least a power LED. If it´s simple to draw voltage gain from the board for it - no problem. But not all DIY people know that.
I know. I know these are peanut problems
I know I know ...
Steinar spoke about the harmony of the color choices. If you cannot see them (placed in a case) what makes the sense ?
For example Arjen places connection points for the cables with the LED in the end. If you put the board in a suitable case (what many of us wish to do) it is very comfortable to draw the ready wired LEDs to the prefered point of the case. Beautiful cases - beautiful lights ...
Forget this board - I am talking about improvements for your next boards. If I put this board in a case I just need at least a power LED. If it´s simple to draw voltage gain from the board for it - no problem. But not all DIY people know that.
I know. I know these are peanut problems
I see your point
I think it should be possible to see the red light when placed in a box if you make a hole where it is. But in a box it would be hard to see both lights. I havnt considered putting mine in a box yet, I enjoy watching it
I dont recommend using two lead batteries in series. When you draw current out of them the other batterys voltage eventually drops too low and it will draw it empty first causing your other battery to die. I faced this problem when i was building my first ghettoblaster. I got around it buy buying a voltage booster.
HelderHIFI TK2050 board
Dear fellow DIYers,
I have now got a new PCB out, my version of the TK2050 Amplifier, worked on it for a long time , and ill receive my board this week, after the samples tested perfectly.
the specs are available in my ebay shop.
photo's are here:
http://www.data.helderhifi.com/TK2050_side.jpg
Greetings!
Arjen Helder
Dear fellow DIYers,
I have now got a new PCB out, my version of the TK2050 Amplifier, worked on it for a long time , and ill receive my board this week, after the samples tested perfectly.
the specs are available in my ebay shop.
photo's are here:
http://www.data.helderhifi.com/TK2050_side.jpg
Greetings!
Arjen Helder
Power consumption
.
Playing with the batteries in series shouldn't be any problem with uneven discharge unless there is a mismatch or one is going bad already. Chargers will be better in parallel which is why you often see an XLR connector used for the external battery connection.
.
If the amp draws 300ma then two, 3 amp hour batteries in series will play for 8-10 hours on a charge. If you forget to turn it off and leave it on for 20 hours (or a number of days), the battery level will go below the recommended discharge voltage of 11v each. Permanent sulfation will occur and you will ruin the batteries on the first try. This is what happens to many people using these amps with batteries.
You can measure the current consumption with a multi meter set to amps. It is a series measurement so you will have to connect the + wire from the batteries to the ground input of the meter. Connect the amps connector of the meter to the + input of the amp. Battery - still goes straight to the amp -. Measure amps on the larger scale. I would guess that it will be around 150ma at idle and 250ma - 300ma when playing music with 25v in.
.
Playing with the batteries in series shouldn't be any problem with uneven discharge unless there is a mismatch or one is going bad already. Chargers will be better in parallel which is why you often see an XLR connector used for the external battery connection.
.
If the amp draws 300ma then two, 3 amp hour batteries in series will play for 8-10 hours on a charge. If you forget to turn it off and leave it on for 20 hours (or a number of days), the battery level will go below the recommended discharge voltage of 11v each. Permanent sulfation will occur and you will ruin the batteries on the first try. This is what happens to many people using these amps with batteries.
It is a symmetrical power supply.
Most tripath boards (except the ta3020) require a non-symmetrical psu.
The psu is usable, but bear in mind you only need one side of the power supply.
I think the helderhifi tk2050 looks ok, but it has no output relays, and, as most people complain about a pop-on noise on their tube buffer, I think you should add some relays.
Also, the heatsink looks quite small. Is it OK to use?
Most tripath boards (except the ta3020) require a non-symmetrical psu.
The psu is usable, but bear in mind you only need one side of the power supply.
I think the helderhifi tk2050 looks ok, but it has no output relays, and, as most people complain about a pop-on noise on their tube buffer, I think you should add some relays.
Also, the heatsink looks quite small. Is it OK to use?
Last edited:
don´t know where you refering to ... but I would please be cleared up what this means: non sym. psu ? Does that mean that it makes no difference if you change GND and + connection points from the non sym. psus (most tripaths as you write above) ?
Sorry for the greenhorn questions
Hi Teamacc,
no,this PSU have CODE for order (see pic) single or double VOut,also if "Single" it possible use 2 way positive voltage(it have separate filter LC) for decouppling better amplifier (in case of 2 amp).
i think is very prof solution for assemble amplifier ,low profile.
no thermal problem,no noise,good at burst (bass frequency peak).
for curiosity only,dps-400 (no "S") identicall ,can supply one mosfet amp 400w(4R) (with PBTU module only).
Regards
no,this PSU have CODE for order (see pic) single or double VOut,also if "Single" it possible use 2 way positive voltage(it have separate filter LC) for decouppling better amplifier (in case of 2 amp).
i think is very prof solution for assemble amplifier ,low profile.
no thermal problem,no noise,good at burst (bass frequency peak).
for curiosity only,dps-400 (no "S") identicall ,can supply one mosfet amp 400w(4R) (with PBTU module only).
Regards
I have 2 of these boards and have tried them both with and without my Bryston pre-amp. I found that I can achieve near ear splitting volume levels with the volume controlled through the on-board pot and it certainly plays much louder than any of my 2024 amps. Maybe your board has a problem. With the Bryston pre, the gain appears to be less than that of the Sure 2050 but in the end it plays as loud as my ears can stand.
I am running this board at 30.3 volts through a meanwell 36 volt supply and it does get quite warm after 1/2 hour of playing at medium volume levels. The heat build up is certainly not as high as the Sure board. I can keep the palm of my hand on this heat sink without discomfort but could not do that with the Sure amp. That board gets really hot with stock heatsink and without the fan running.
I tried direct comparison between the two amps and could not tell much difference, it's hard to do when switching speaker cables back and forth. I think that this board has a slightly smoother sound quality and does not have as much hash coming through the tweeter and mid range as the Sure. There is a slight hiss with my ear to the speaker but it can't be heard when the music is playing. The noise from the Sure is louder but not a problem either. On the Sure, I have the fan running and the output filter has not been changed. I changed the fan wire to teflon insulated and shielded, changed the hook-up location, and applied aluminum tape to the fan surfaces and the fan noise pretty much disappeared.
I think that Hifimediy has done a nice job but I could do without the 3 pin input connecter. Terminal blocks would be better for a quick connection. I think that a fan might be required as well.
Hi, you can see on "audiopower.it".
DPS-400 is 480W Out 230VAC only. or DPS-400-S,250w out (110VAC).
Regards
Hi there,
The MKI TK2050 does have relays, 2 of them actually, and there is no pop noise on this amplifier.
for the tube buffer a fix is available, a small board with 2 relays and a delay circuit that solves the pop problem, if there are people out there that want this, it is available.
the heatsink is plenty big! i've tested it under maximal power and it will not exeed 70 degrees in 30 deg ambient. compared to the shure boards its about 4 times the surface space per IC, mind you this is a MONO board, it has just one power IC and one TC200 IC.
Furthermore, the specifications i give are Measured, not guessed or taken from the datasheet, 40 watts over 8 Ohms at less than 0.2% THD and 60 watts at 4 Ohms at less than 0.2% THD.
i will post photo's of the measurements online later.
Greetings!
Arjen Helder
The MKI TK2050 does have relays, 2 of them actually, and there is no pop noise on this amplifier.
for the tube buffer a fix is available, a small board with 2 relays and a delay circuit that solves the pop problem, if there are people out there that want this, it is available.
the heatsink is plenty big! i've tested it under maximal power and it will not exeed 70 degrees in 30 deg ambient. compared to the shure boards its about 4 times the surface space per IC, mind you this is a MONO board, it has just one power IC and one TC200 IC.
Furthermore, the specifications i give are Measured, not guessed or taken from the datasheet, 40 watts over 8 Ohms at less than 0.2% THD and 60 watts at 4 Ohms at less than 0.2% THD.
i will post photo's of the measurements online later.
Greetings!
Arjen Helder
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.