correct, that can feed 20 people here.
it just a few dollar more expensive from ebay but considering slow & unreliable international delivery I think 20$ is not bad.
btw, the treble on my T1 starts to open up. I'm going to compare it to T2020 Charlize. If my memory is correct, both have very close sound signature.
You cannot bridge 2 channels, this has been an issue discussed over and over again, and iirc it is on the boards themselves too!
Using one channel for a subwoofer should not harm it in any way, although you might want to add a resistor to the unused channel (20 ohm or smthin) as some people have reported that the amp does not like to be used unloaded.
Using one channel for a subwoofer should not harm it in any way, although you might want to add a resistor to the unused channel (20 ohm or smthin) as some people have reported that the amp does not like to be used unloaded.
I apologize, I'm new to Hifi. I knew it couldn't be bridged, but I didn't know that mixing 2 channels = bridging, and I recall a dutch person suggesting it on another forum, but he may not me so reliable.
Is an ordinary resistor good enough? What kind of wattage should I look for in the woofer? The amp delivers about 30W undistorted in 8ohm, so 30-40W woofers?
Is an ordinary resistor good enough? What kind of wattage should I look for in the woofer? The amp delivers about 30W undistorted in 8ohm, so 30-40W woofers?
The other option is to get a dual voice coil subwoofer and feed each coil with a separate channel. Iv'e used this to good effect in a couple of systems. For example:
Goldwood GW-410D 10" Poly DVC Subwoofer
You need to watch out for "bus pumping" though.
col.
X4 which will be a 4-channel board
Hi all. I'm back.
I made some interesting products in the past few month and I will let you know. And this is X4, which is one of the AMT2050 amplifier board family( we already have T1 through T4 now). X4 is double to T1 but without potentiometer/speaker protection, which is not necessary for some guys. And a Pop noise killer is kept on board, also a external power down connector like T4 used. Here is the PCB design.
Hi all. I'm back.
I made some interesting products in the past few month and I will let you know. And this is X4, which is one of the AMT2050 amplifier board family( we already have T1 through T4 now). X4 is double to T1 but without potentiometer/speaker protection, which is not necessary for some guys. And a Pop noise killer is kept on board, also a external power down connector like T4 used. Here is the PCB design.
Attachments
If the Helder buffer is a standard line-level buffer, so on the input of the amp, then I'm fairly sure that it can be added. Whether it's any good is a completely subjective opinion
I haven't tried ... People who have tried tube buffers generally like them, as I gather?
I have 2 Helder tube buffers, one implemented with his monoblocks and one wrapped up in its packing. You might try without it first for a good impression. I am not sure it is worth the trouble, to me it does not add anything. Totally subjective thing.
Here is another Q:
Can anyone who built the T4 180W @ 8 ohms comment on its performance? I think I'd like to try one.
Here is another Q:
Can anyone who built the T4 180W @ 8 ohms comment on its performance? I think I'd like to try one.
Most are suggesting to upgrade the tube on the Helder, it makes a big difference apparently. But I am wondering if dac, buffer and amp are a bit overkill.
Its a shame I can't get a tube dac board (with the 1852 or 1853 dac).
Will
Yes, that is a good idea and I have. I use an Amperex orange label, an RCA black plate, and Sylvania mil spec JAN6189 to pick from. I think I might use the other buffer on a USB DAC.
Still think the HIFImediy amp is good by itself.
Read HERE... my comments (and TheDealer's) about it are there. I have to specify (so you can weigh my words) that previously I was enjoying music with a Creative HT system...another galaxy, of course.
But, if I'm quite new to Hi Fi, a friend of mine is quite an old date "aficionado" (and we both are musician...
..so we think to know the true sound of instruments that we would like to listen from our hi fi systems)...read about it on that link 'till the end.There's also a comparison made by VBro between the not so different TA3020 (by 41Hz) and others famous amplifier. Then go to 41Hz website and you can read that sta517b and TA3020 are considered as "excellent" in a table(I don't remember who wrote it, but is linked on 41Hz website).
I hope you can get some conclusion by this comparison chain....
P.S.: Once I listened to a tube amp: I don't like the warm tone of tubes...they are not linear elements, so they cannot preserve the original signal, moreover the tubes in Helder's buffer are made for 220V c.a, and here powered at (if I am not wrong) at about 40V= as a result you obtain a lot of typical tube distortion. If I had to try a valve buffer I would try Oatley Electronics one changing caps and rising voltage to reach max valve voltage [about 30-40V?] (their valves need lower max voltage= less distortion, still tube style).
But personally I would invest my money on a very good DAC(WM8741 or ESS Sabre Reference, for exemple), THIS (of course IMHO) makes music natural, not sweeten music with tubes...
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Hi,
I had posted awhile ago about getting the V1 with ALPS, and the V2 4700 amp. I have had the V2 4700 Amp for awhile and it's sounds great. My V1 alps amp had a shipping delay that's why I am now trying it. But I just hooked up the V1 Alps amp and I get a loud hum in the foreground and I can also hear barely hear the music playing in the background, so there is a huge problem. Any thoughts.
I'd like to try to solve this if possible before I e-mail Steinar. Thanks!
I had posted awhile ago about getting the V1 with ALPS, and the V2 4700 amp. I have had the V2 4700 Amp for awhile and it's sounds great. My V1 alps amp had a shipping delay that's why I am now trying it. But I just hooked up the V1 Alps amp and I get a loud hum in the foreground and I can also hear barely hear the music playing in the background, so there is a huge problem. Any thoughts.
I'd like to try to solve this if possible before I e-mail Steinar. Thanks!
FOUND IT!!!! I'm very happy, I compared it to my V2 Amp case and found my error.
It was those little round delron washers that go with the RCA's. There are four of them and I had two of them on the wrong side of the grounds on the inside of the case. Easy fix, Whew...
Ok, Very first impressions of the V1 Alps Amp, and this is with only a couple of songs so this may change. And I am going back up to listen to it when I'm done posting here. But deeper channel seperation is the first thing I notice right away, and also with that a little more detail. The sound also sounds deeper in the soundstage.
Ok, I'm heading back up to listen, but head to head so far V1 Alps has made an very positive impression!
More later
It was those little round delron washers that go with the RCA's. There are four of them and I had two of them on the wrong side of the grounds on the inside of the case. Easy fix, Whew...
Ok, Very first impressions of the V1 Alps Amp, and this is with only a couple of songs so this may change. And I am going back up to listen to it when I'm done posting here.
But deeper channel seperation is the first thing I notice right away, and also with that a little more detail. The sound also sounds deeper in the soundstage. Ok, I'm heading back up to listen, but head to head so far V1 Alps has made an very positive impression!
More later
Can I add a feature request please? I'm happy with the no potentiometer but can we have some means of gain adjustment please? Either jumpers or easily solderable nonSMD resistors perhaps?
Using the STA510a as well would be nice
SMD resistors are actually very very easy to swap. Much easier than through-hole! It's a question of technique. Then it's almost like cheating, it gets so easy.
This video shows smt soldering pretty well, how easy it is: YouTube - Soldering SMD 0805 Capacitor
1) Melt a small speck of solder onto one of the pads
2) Using tweezers, lay the part onto the pad.
3) Holding the part, melt the solder, fixing the part to the board.
4) Solder the other side using a little more solder.
5) Resolder the first joint, adding a little more solder.
Desoldering is done by simply adding as much solder to both joints as possible. Keep them both warm and the part can easily be flipped off the board.
I hope I'm not being meddlesome
Excuse me if I am. It's just that I hated surface-mount, but now I am enlightened and wish to share the knowledge bestowed on me - Status
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