Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

New TK2050 board
New TK2050 board
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 16th December 2012, 11:57 AM   #2191
von Ah is offline von Ah  United States
diyAudio Member
von Ah's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Maryland, USA
thanks for the reminder.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th December 2012, 05:47 PM   #2192
Malefoda is offline Malefoda  France
diyAudio Member
Malefoda's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2006
Send a message via MSN to Malefoda
Default SMPS options

Hi there,
finally I will start to set-up my T1, and got an Meanwell S-350 36V 9A I've previousely orered for that purpose.
But I got for free half a dozen of this SMPS, 48V 4.2A; (and 2x 12V 16A for info)
FlatPAC * 50-600 Watt Power System
As one ca see it's adjustable and already done to 35V but is it like a a linear tx and VA remaining VA I've got now 35V and 5.7A? Still less than the MW...

Second, sounds like a quiet PSU to me:

Originally Posted by Vicor Support
What is the switching frequency of your VI-200 / VI-J00 and Maxi, Mini and Micro converters?

Vicor VI-200 / VI-J00 and Maxi, Mini and Micro power converters use frequency modulated, quasi-resonant, zero-current switching in contrast to the pulse-width-modulated (PWM) switchers. As such, the operating frequency is both input line and output load dependant, and could range from under 100 kHz at light load, high line, to around 1 MHz at full load, low line. As a result, Vicors zero-current switching has much lower conducted and radiated noise levels than conventional pulse-width-modulation (PWM) converters, typically 20 40 dB lower.
So "few" noise vs less amp, worth try it?

QED T260, Thorens TD-318 & Ortofon Super OM 20, Teac VRDS-10, Buffalo II & NTD1, UCD400, JBL 4313B: music!
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd January 2013, 03:29 PM   #2193
lloop9 is offline lloop9
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 1 degree north of the equator.
Heya fellows, would there be any other disadvantage of using T2 with 8 ohm speakers besides the lower power rating of 50W, compared to the T1 at 100W?

How do you guys describe the sonic character between the T1 and T2?

I'm using the amp for my Zaph ZBM4 mini speakers for near field listening on my computer desk, so I guess going with the T2 may be more future proof if I want to use it with 4 ohm speakers in the future.

Thanks for any advices.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th January 2013, 12:03 PM   #2194
buteo is offline buteo
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Default headphone and T1

I saw hifimedy sells a dedicaded headphone edition of the T1 amp. It seems too much to me to have two T1 amps, one for the speakers and one for the headphone, since I use only one of them at time .
Is it possible to add an headphone jack to the T1 output with some circuit modification? Will it worth?
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th February 2013, 04:21 PM   #2195
David_Web is offline David_Web  Sweden
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
As T1 is fully bridged you can not add a headphone jack to ether model as that would short the two channels together.

One option is to use transformers to combine the two channels into common ground.
I do this with another amp to both lower noise (110dB compression driver) and send signal to both tweeters through one twinax cable with shield as common ground.

Is the 1.5V sensitivity for the headphone version a typo as the gain is 12x Vs 18x for the normal version? (18x gain assumed by 100W 8ohm and 1.5V sensitivity)
Or is the 8ohm rating 40W for headphone version.

Any figure for noise for the headphone version vs normal T1?
If it is indeed very quiet it could be perfect to drive compression drivers with.

Any plans for balanced input? Mainly T1 and T4.

Shipping from within EU made these amps way more attractive as that would mean a lot less hassle to get it home.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd February 2013, 02:52 AM   #2196
dwillett is offline dwillett
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Default Just had my second T-1 die.

I love, love, love the sound of the T-1 boards, especially with the Meanwell supply. Unfortunately, I had one of the v1.2 boards that shorted with smoke and sparks. (it's an issue thats been mentioned in previous posts).

I replaced the amp and power supply when the v1.3 boards came out, but now 5 months later that board has failed. Less spectacularly, but it wasn't working that hard when it expired. Red light lights, but green light is out. 30 volts and 5 volts are available on the board, but powering up does not activate any relays.

Use for both amps was pretty light duty feeding a pair of small 8 ohm monitors for video editing. They were in a proper metal case with clean power and well ventilated.

Is there an updated version of this amp? I don't know if there is a warranty on a DIY board, but my v1.3 was only 5 months old when it expired. (Sept 2012).
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2013, 03:05 PM   #2197
b4rr3l is offline b4rr3l
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
latest Project

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st April 2013, 10:24 PM   #2198
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
diyAudio Member
v-bro's Avatar
Join Date: May 2006
Looks Nice, but all the audio wiring running past that open reel smps??
Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 07:50 AM   #2199
minorchange is offline minorchange  Viet Nam
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vietnam
Send a message via Yahoo to minorchange
I did some mods on T2 SE: changing input caps to huge 1uF Russian K75-10 paralled with a pair of 0.047uF Russian teflon K72-6, changing power cap to Elna for audio cap, add some paralell small MKP. I am using linear power transformer with hedfex low noise diode and using TL783 to fix voltage as 28VDC. After mod, sound became much much better than stock version. It is very sweet as tube sound but has more detail and powerful than tube amp. Quite happy with this kit!
  Reply With Quote
Old 2nd April 2013, 07:54 AM   #2200
minorchange is offline minorchange  Viet Nam
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vietnam
Send a message via Yahoo to minorchange
For your information: Russian K75-10 is better than K75-24 which some people here have exprerience with. Adding small teflon cap like K72-6 will improve mid range and sound stage a little bit
  Reply With Quote


New TK2050 boardHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sure electronics 4*100 watt @ 4ohm, TK2050 D-class Audio Amplifier Board aquapiranha Class D 3 30th May 2011 11:06 PM
Any input on the new Dayton TK2050? finnbow Class D 10 2nd May 2011 11:37 PM
Parallled tk2050/st505 paolo66 Class D 1 24th November 2009 05:10 PM
New Sure electronics TK2050 T-amp xaudiox Class D 2 8th May 2009 07:50 AM
Tripath TK2050 Eccu Digital Source 0 19th April 2002 11:06 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:43 PM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.00%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2017 diyAudio