New TK2050 board

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If you create an amplifier using two STA517B chips to their maximum, and incorporate a good cooling method, and still manage to do this for less than 100 euros, you will have me as a customer :D
Bear in mind that the coils might need to go for bigger/better ones, as there will be much more current flowing through them.

:D I hope we can do that, but I'm not sure now. Thanks for your suggestion.
 
a TA3020 Version will also be contributed ...?

Second question: I received this week my V2.0 board. Thanks to Steinar by this way.

What does that red LED closed to the big cap mean ? It went ON in my case together with the green LED (power on ?). Is there something wrong with my board because usually a red LED light means "problem" in function. I connected the speakers after I powered the board. The amp is working an I can listen to music but I felt it a bit weak powered. Just my feeling. This can also be depended on the red LED light ON that still makes me busy in mind.
Supply power is solid 25 Volts. Sadly no + / - DC input polarity is described on the board. I took the last terminal on the edge of the board (as described in a short manual site from steinar) for DC + input. Hope this helps.

Not all DIY here are pure electrotechnicians.
Thanks in advance

I have TA3020 boards, but not a published version now. You can contact me for more details.;)
 
There is no jumpers on the board as you want. And I don't recommend changing the connection like that, for Class-T amplifiers always request good layout(changing connection mode means modify layout). I still recommend using high current power stage chips to fulfill your demand.
I'm thinking about new version that can use STA508 in parallel, and 160W+160W @4ohm will come out.:D

Hifimediy, thanks for responding. More than absolute maximum power, I'm after maximum power at 12V supply (for portable use), so in theory a mono version of your boards will provide twice the current given the 12V supply. I can certainly use one channel of your stereo boards, but it just doesn't feel good "throwing one channel away" as my application is mono.
 
I received my board today am running it off a 225va 18v trans, sounds good now whats the best switch-mode ps ? I only need the power I have at the moment. Also I would like to put in a switch to direct the output between two pairs of speakers has anyone got any suggestions? As it stands it sounds good.
 
the red light just mean there is power input. the green light means the relays are turn on.

the + - for dc is the same which one you use, because of the bridge.
what kind of speakers do you have? it shouldnt feel weak powered, what input are you running into it?

Hi,
at present I have connected a pair of Fostex 6" fullranges. They are actually a bit small and don´t produce the lowest frequencies. Input ? You mean the source ?
It´s a CD player ... I will listen more and with more vol. gain from now on.
This red LED concerned me a bit in the beginning. Now it´s cleared up - thanks
 
I have TA3020 boards, but not a published version now. You can contact me for more details.;)

If your TK2050 passes my requirements (technical and musical) - so why not ?
But you should publish at least a small manual for us non-electrotechnician.

I found for example the speakers out placements not good because when you look onto the board with the vol. pot showing to you , you see the left speakers out placed right and the right out placed on the left ... O.K. maybe this doesn´t act on the function but a good developed board should regard also this aspects ... just my opinion
 
Other suggestion for the TK2050 board could be to add a slow-speed fan (no-audible) on the heatsink, or to increase the heatsink size.
I bought the board, once it will be at my home I will check the temperature with an infrared thermo-scanner and, if necessary, I will apply a fan.
According to datasheet the TP2050/STA505 should be capable to work well over 30V, but reading this topic seems that it needs an uprated cooling to not be damaged over 30V.
So I assume that the standard heatsink could be not optimal for the heat dissipation.
What do you think about?
 
Hifimediy, thanks for responding. More than absolute maximum power, I'm after maximum power at 12V supply (for portable use), so in theory a mono version of your boards will provide twice the current given the 12V supply. I can certainly use one channel of your stereo boards, but it just doesn't feel good "throwing one channel away" as my application is mono.

Hi, I'm planning making a version that is tiny and mono output. may be is perfect for your demand. But I wonder if you want to waite..:D
 
If your TK2050 passes my requirements (technical and musical) - so why not ?
But you should publish at least a small manual for us non-electrotechnician.

I found for example the speakers out placements not good because when you look onto the board with the vol. pot showing to you , you see the left speakers out placed right and the right out placed on the left ... O.K. maybe this doesn´t act on the function but a good developed board should regard also this aspects ... just my opinion

hi, thanks for your advice. I will try to make it better next time;)
 
Other suggestion for the TK2050 board could be to add a slow-speed fan (no-audible) on the heatsink, or to increase the heatsink size.
I bought the board, once it will be at my home I will check the temperature with an infrared thermo-scanner and, if necessary, I will apply a fan.
According to datasheet the TP2050/STA505 should be capable to work well over 30V, but reading this topic seems that it needs an uprated cooling to not be damaged over 30V.
So I assume that the standard heatsink could be not optimal for the heat dissipation.
What do you think about?

Hi, adding a fan is good idea for heat dissipation, but consider the height of whole board, i suggest install the fan by the side the board, not on it. For v1.1B, fan is not necessary at all.
 
Other suggestion for the TK2050 board could be to add a slow-speed fan (no-audible) on the heatsink, or to increase the heatsink size.
I bought the board, once it will be at my home I will check the temperature with an infrared thermo-scanner and, if necessary, I will apply a fan.
According to datasheet the TP2050/STA505 should be capable to work well over 30V, but reading this topic seems that it needs an uprated cooling to not be damaged over 30V.
So I assume that the standard heatsink could be not optimal for the heat dissipation.
What do you think about?

Please dont, it will pollute the 5v line, just like with the sure boards.
You can, however, add another 5v reg (7805 or something) to the board, and hook the fan up to that.
With a resistor in front of the 7805 and some buffer caps on all ends, I was able to get my fan running without audible pollution on the lines
 
Please dont, it will pollute the 5v line, just like with the sure boards.
You can, however, add another 5v reg (7805 or something) to the board, and hook the fan up to that.
With a resistor in front of the 7805 and some buffer caps on all ends, I was able to get my fan running without audible pollution on the lines
Thanks for the info ;)
Without adding a 7805 to the board you could also make a voltage divider directly from the main power supply:
Voltage divider - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
However it was not my intention to use the TK2050 over 28-29V, I did only some speculative considerations about the heatsink.
Bye!!
 
Voltage divider might not work when used with a wide range of input voltages.
Besides, the pollution of the fan will still be on the main line then... :S
In case of switching power supply, the voltage is well stabilized, so there isn't a "wide range" of input voltage.
I agree with you about the fan pollution.
Using an opportunely customized ATX power supply, you could also use a line (+12V) for the main supply, and another line (+5V) for the fan.
I will show you my project once finished (I assume one or two months).
Bye!
 
True, but using an ATX PSU is not advised.
I dont know why, but 12v is way too low.
If you know how to modify an ATX PSU (moving the feedback from the +5v line to the +12v line etc.) then it's quite easy to obtain a +12v stabilized power supply, and to increase the stabilized voltage to 13.7v or more (limit is imposed by the internal over-voltage protection circuit and by the 16 volt capacitor on the output).
Of course it's not my intention to use the TK2050 with 12v. I will use that board @ 28-29v.
And I will not tell you anything about the custom smps that I've in mind :p

The wide power range: the board can operate from 16 to 24 volts or so, that is quite wide for a res-div.
Of course the voltage divider has to be calculated according to a predefinite voltage. Once you have chosen the voltage (for example 28v) you can calculate the right resistors value for your needs.
It's a diy affair, wouldn't be possible to include an "all-purpose" voltage divider directly on board, I agree 100% with you.
Bye!!
 
I recieved my board this week and the postal service must have sat on the box but the board was intact. When hooked up only one channel would have sound but with a few slight taps on the heat sink the other channel would engage. Every time I power it up I have to do it.
The sound is nice but only as loud as any of my 2020 or 2024 boards. I then reconnected my Sure 2050 board with the same source, speakers and power (~26v DC Sla) and it is much louder. Anybody have any suggestions or advice it would be most appreciated. Thanks
 
I recieved my board this week and the postal service must have sat on the box but the board was intact. When hooked up only one channel would have sound but with a few slight taps on the heat sink the other channel would engage. Every time I power it up I have to do it.
The sound is nice but only as loud as any of my 2020 or 2024 boards. I then reconnected my Sure 2050 board with the same source, speakers and power (~26v DC Sla) and it is much louder. Anybody have any suggestions or advice it would be most appreciated. Thanks
I assume that this problem has to do with the amplifier input stage gain.
Have a look here (pag. 12-13):
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/Tripath/mXyzwqtx.pdf

So changing values on Rf or Ri should be the way to increase the input stage gain. But if Rf and Ri are surface mount technology, then it will be not easy to change them.

I ask to hifimediy if my idea is correct and if Rf and Ri are smt or standard resistors.
Thanks, bye!
 
I recieved my board this week and the postal service must have sat on the box but the board was intact. When hooked up only one channel would have sound but with a few slight taps on the heat sink the other channel would engage. Every time I power it up I have to do it.
The sound is nice but only as loud as any of my 2020 or 2024 boards. I then reconnected my Sure 2050 board with the same source, speakers and power (~26v DC Sla) and it is much louder. Anybody have any suggestions or advice it would be most appreciated. Thanks

could it be some bad connection in speakers connectors or input connector? Try to tap those places and see if you find out where the bad connection is. Study the board closely to see if you can discover something.
I think this is related to the low output as well.
 
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