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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Shanghai
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I'm trying one of these boards. Looks good!
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Shanghai
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I received this board yesterday, hooked it up to a 36V meanwell powersupply turned down to 30V, and started listening. I was expecting it to be good after reading here about the sure boards and other tk2050, and I was not dissapointed. The sounds is amazing. The best I have had at my home. The difference was pretty big compared to my SE el34 triode 6W amp. I changed the output transformers to good quality ones in that amp some weeks ago, and I noticed a small change to the better. But the change when switching to this amp made a hugh difference on my speakers.
For my eyes, this board seems like has better parts than the sure boards, so I'm not sure what I should upgrade. I have some MCAP 2.2uf I might try in the input in place of the big blue ones (what brand are those), but those might already be better than the input caps on the sure.? Also, the board can take both AC and DC as it has a "sanken 15A bridge". Because I already have DC from the meanwell, should I take the sanken bridge it away, would that make a difference? Anyone recognices the inductors, what brand/type are those, should they be good enough? The guy that made this said he made 50 ex that sold out now, but he will have more available next month. I havn't heard the sure, so I cannot compare them, but I cannot really find any weaknesses to this board yet. The sound is clear, detailed, very relaxed, open, with a very dark background. I also have a HLLY tamp 20 with ta2020, and that sound is nice enought, but nowhere near the detailed high-end sound I get from this board. Some pictures: ![]()
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
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how much, where from?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Germany
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![]() Please do not take this as negative comment but try to improve soldering skills. The way it looks now I would not expect optimal results. Even better would be to use the correct type of connector. The caps would not be damaged then. You will have to change them now anyway but use the right tools and try to work precise. If you can't get hold of the right connector desolder the one that is soldered to the board and wire new shielded wiring straight to the PCB. Thin shielded wire is the best option. Or simply ask the seller if he can provide the cable harness.
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It's only audio Last edited by jean-paul; 20th April 2010 at 09:12 PM. |
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#7 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Shanghai
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Quote:
Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ny
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Quote:
__________________
Scott |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Shanghai
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Quote:
Where can I buy those Wurth coils? I did a search but couldn't find anything. The heatsinks are fastened with screws on, so should be easy to remove. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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