New TK2050 board

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Got my TK2050 and USB DAC from hifimediy on Monday, super fast shipping (ordered it the previous Thursday afternoon). Thank you.

I love the sound, lots of detail, tested with various 8Ohm Mission speakers. Great stuff.

Building a case now, might go with front panel designer to cut out all the holes into a 19" 2U rack case.

Also experimenting with the Arduino for input control and possibly volume control too.
 
I'm probably going to cut out the back panel and stick the USB through the square hole somehow.......but I have a new problem!

I had left the amp and PSU on all day to warm up/break in before my listening session tonight, with the volume at 0. Everything seemed normal, heatsink/coils etc nice and cool.

Listening to some Beatles with the volume at about 80% it started to clip really bad, then BANG! Big smoke show from the amp. As i looked over and looked where the smoke was coming from, BANG again!!! The capacitor exploded and bits flew past my face !

So, swiftly turned off the PSU and examined the amp.

Q4 BC639 is toasted, and C32 a 16V 270uF capacitor has blown it's top.

I removed the heatsink, and looks like the side of the chip closest to the coils has some discoloration. I'll have to look closer tomorrow with my magnifier at work, not sure if this is from the original soldering from manufacture.

The meanwell is set to 36V and I've set the DC offset to as close to 0mV as possible.

The whole shebang is running on my bench, on an antistatic surface, with plastic risers in the mounting holes.

:(
 
I'm probably going to cut out the back panel and stick the USB through the square hole somehow.......but I have a new problem!

I had left the amp and PSU on all day to warm up/break in before my listening session tonight, with the volume at 0. Everything seemed normal, heatsink/coils etc nice and cool.

Listening to some Beatles with the volume at about 80% it started to clip really bad, then BANG! Big smoke show from the amp. As i looked over and looked where the smoke was coming from, BANG again!!! The capacitor exploded and bits flew past my face !

So, swiftly turned off the PSU and examined the amp.

Q4 BC639 is toasted, and C32 a 16V 270uF capacitor has blown it's top.

I removed the heatsink, and looks like the side of the chip closest to the coils has some discoloration. I'll have to look closer tomorrow with my magnifier at work, not sure if this is from the original soldering from manufacture.

The meanwell is set to 36V and I've set the DC offset to as close to 0mV as possible.

The whole shebang is running on my bench, on an antistatic surface, with plastic risers in the mounting holes.

:(

Im not too clued up but i think 36v is too much, isn't this board quoted at max 30v for DC?

Edit...

Taken from the ebay listing for this amp board.
Power input:
The board can take both AC and DC powersupply. DC range is 22V - 31V, AC range is 16V - 22V. We recommend the 27V 350W Meanwell SMPS to power this amp.

Adam.
 
Examining things further, the underside of the heatsink is scorched, so it looks like a smoking gun that the legs were vaporised.

There was a LOT of heatsink compound on the heatsink and chip, and some had made it's way onto the chip legs. Wonder if this is related? I know back in my athlon overclocking days, arctic silver was conductive and not a good idea to slap around, but this stuff looks like plain white, non-conductive?
 
Examining things further, the underside of the heatsink is scorched, so it looks like a smoking gun that the legs were vaporised.

There was a LOT of heatsink compound on the heatsink and chip, and some had made it's way onto the chip legs. Wonder if this is related? I know back in my athlon overclocking days, arctic silver was conductive and not a good idea to slap around, but this stuff looks like plain white, non-conductive?

Im not sure if people still use the conductive stuff anymore, id say have a look for a new chip but its prob easier/cheaper to buy a whole new amp board.

Adam
 
Hi, I think the 5V supply circuit on board is wrong and lead to power chip burn, but I don't know the reason before I get the faulty board. :eek:

or at least a detailed photo would help more at first step.

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Yubing, by the way: is there any short manuals/layouts to build up the TA3020 or the T4 board ?

Regarding TA3020 I wanted to mix AC and DC if possible.
AC for main 36-0-36 and DC for the other (12 V Battery). Is this possible for TA3020 ?
 
or at least a detailed photo would help more at first step.

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Yubing, by the way: is there any short manuals/layouts to build up the TA3020 or the T4 board ?

Regarding TA3020 I wanted to mix AC and DC if possible.
AC for main 36-0-36 and DC for the other (12 V Battery). Is this possible for TA3020 ?
Hi, it's ok to use 36-0-36 AC for both T4 and TA3020. And it's also ok for mixed AC and DC supply. And you can ask Nick for manuals;)

Hi, I'm afraid I still can't find the reason now from your pictures. But it's sure that the BC639 and 270uF cap are damaged, also I guess the STA510 and even TC2000 must be failed because 5V supply on board must be not normal. I suggest you contact Nick for repair issues.:eek:
 
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