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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 9th July 2010, 03:20 AM   #431
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Location: Philadelphia
Default Can you guys make one with 20000uf to 40000uf?

Nick and HifimeDiy,

Can you guys make v2.0 with 20000uf to 40000uf? If yes, what would be the cost?

My Ta2022 sounds much better in the bass with 40000uf.

Thanks,

Duc
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Old 9th July 2010, 03:46 AM   #432
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Location: Shanghai
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpax View Post
Hi Hifimediy and Nick (great initiative of you making this board accessibe via ebay)!

I recieved my board for a couple of days and I have let it run day and night to burn it in.

Ive made some listing comparison to my moderate modded 2x100 sureboard (valab MKP2000 4.7uF input caps, passive cooling, T106-2
coils, stock ouput and tank caps) driven by a 27v 350w meanwell SMPS turned up to 29v.

I think your card performs very well, hard to say which I like best, my modded sureboard have some more depth/3D-sound and
"loudness", your board on the other hand I find more neutral sounding (and perhaps more correct).
Anyway, your card is far better than a stock sureboard and would be the obvious choice for someone deciding between them.

Some other observerations:

* the heat dissipation are similiar (I use a Zalman ZM-NB47J sink), perhaps your board is slightly warmer.
* The gain are close to the surebords lower gain setting (I think the sureboard have 16 v/v gain and yours 15 v/v)

Now to my question: I don't need the volumepot so I'm think of removing it and solder the line in cables direct to the output
holes of the removed pot. Do I instead need resistors (lets say 20k) parallell between signal lines and signal ground to give my
source some load or can I skip that? According to Tripath's application/test diagrams it doesn't seems necessary.
Hi, it would be very interesting to hear how it sounds like if you swapped to caps from your sureboard into this board. I have used Mundorf MKP in mine, and I feel that the mundorfs have more depth, call that 3D, and softer highs than than the stock caps. The stock caps can seem more pronounced in the highs.


Quote:
Nick and HifimeDiy,

Can you guys make v2.0 with 20000uf to 40000uf? If yes, what would be the cost?

My Ta2022 sounds much better in the bass with 40000uf.

Thanks,

Duc
is that ta2022 with linear psu? I think maybe you wont feel that difference if you using SMPS.
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Old 9th July 2010, 04:02 AM   #433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
is that ta2022 with linear psu? I think maybe you wont feel that difference if you using SMPS.
Yes, the ta2022 is with linear PS. I will try the SMPS. My sure board sounds smoother w battery though.

Thanks,

Duc
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Old 9th July 2010, 04:11 AM   #434
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Location: Shanghai
yeah, I will try battery again soon, have been running smps for a while. now after the great achivement with direct out dac I'm curious of what difference the batteries will make.
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Old 9th July 2010, 10:23 AM   #435
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Location: Rome, Italy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
Hi, in that case I would really suggest you to waste some time with batteries. ;-) I think they sound slightly better than smps.
I don't like batteries for some extra-audio reasons (environmental pollution, discomfort etc.), although I'm an RC modeller and I know very well Pb, NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, Li-Ion and LiFePO4 batteries. I'm using some LiPo on my R/C cars, these kind of batteries have got an impressive maximum discharge current and weigh very little (about -40% compared to NiMH).
However keep in mind that lithium-based batteries need a *specific* charger, otherwise are very dangerous because they burn very easy in case of over-voltage during the recharging process.
Pb batteries are much more secure.
I really suggest you to do some search on web about the lithium associated risks in case of improper use.
Bye!
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Old 9th July 2010, 01:35 PM   #436
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Location: Shanghai
Hi, thanks for you information and warning about lithium batteries.
I have bought a set that comes with a charger, so I think that should be safe. Anyway, will test it and check charging voltage.
Thanks.
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Old 9th July 2010, 03:30 PM   #437
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Default Hi, I just got the heatsink for T3, and here they are.

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.T3[/IMG]
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Old 9th July 2010, 03:55 PM   #438
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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-Double post-

Last edited by teamacc; 9th July 2010 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 9th July 2010, 03:59 PM   #439
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Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler View Post
I am planning to change the layout by scraping two ground points under the board in order to eliminate the leads and to move the zobel underneath but this is what my 2X100 boards look like now. The Wurth coils look just like the stock coils.
Perhaps this article would be a good read

Capacitor Characteristics
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Old 9th July 2010, 04:00 PM   #440
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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Heatsink looks quite small. How hot does it get?

No speaker output relays?

Why put a 50v cap on a board that is made for a specified max of 48v? I think you better can go with 63v..
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