New TK2050 board

[hifimediy]

Originally Posted by Don Jerry

Other suggestion for the TK2050 board could be to add a slow-speed fan (no-audible) on the heatsink, or to increase the heatsink size.
I bought the board, once it will be at my home I will check the temperature with an infrared thermo-scanner and, if necessary, I will apply a fan.
According to datasheet the TP2050/STA505 should be capable to work well over 30V, but reading this topic seems that it needs an uprated cooling to not be damaged over 30V.
So I assume that the standard heatsink could be not optimal for the heat dissipation.
What do you think about?

Hi, adding a fan is good idea for heat dissipation, but consider the height of whole board, i suggest install the fan by the side the board, not on it. For v1.1B, fan is not necessary at all.

[teamacc]

Originally Posted by Don Jerry

Other suggestion for the TK2050 board could be to add a slow-speed fan (no-audible) on the heatsink, or to increase the heatsink size.
I bought the board, once it will be at my home I will check the temperature with an infrared thermo-scanner and, if necessary, I will apply a fan.
According to datasheet the TP2050/STA505 should be capable to work well over 30V, but reading this topic seems that it needs an uprated cooling to not be damaged over 30V.
So I assume that the standard heatsink could be not optimal for the heat dissipation.
What do you think about?

Please dont, it will pollute the 5v line, just like with the sure boards.
You can, however, add another 5v reg (7805 or something) to the board, and hook the fan up to that.
With a resistor in front of the 7805 and some buffer caps on all ends, I was able to get my fan running without audible pollution on the lines

[Don Jerry]

Originally Posted by teamacc

Please dont, it will pollute the 5v line, just like with the sure boards.
You can, however, add another 5v reg (7805 or something) to the board, and hook the fan up to that.
With a resistor in front of the 7805 and some buffer caps on all ends, I was able to get my fan running without audible pollution on the lines

Thanks for the info
Without adding a 7805 to the board you could also make a voltage divider directly from the main power supply:
Voltage divider - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
However it was not my intention to use the TK2050 over 28-29V, I did only some speculative considerations about the heatsink.
Bye!!

[teamacc]

Voltage divider might not work when used with a wide range of input voltages.
Besides, the pollution of the fan will still be on the main line then... :S

[Don Jerry]

Originally Posted by teamacc

Voltage divider might not work when used with a wide range of input voltages.
Besides, the pollution of the fan will still be on the main line then... :S

In case of switching power supply, the voltage is well stabilized, so there isn't a "wide range" of input voltage.
I agree with you about the fan pollution.
Using an opportunely customized ATX power supply, you could also use a line (+12V) for the main supply, and another line (+5V) for the fan.
I will show you my project once finished (I assume one or two months).
Bye!

[teamacc]

True, but using an ATX PSU is not advised.
I dont know why, but 12v is way too low.

The wide power range: the board can operate from 16 to 24 volts or so, that is quite wide for a res-div

[Don Jerry]

Originally Posted by teamacc

True, but using an ATX PSU is not advised.
I dont know why, but 12v is way too low.

If you know how to modify an ATX PSU (moving the feedback from the +5v line to the +12v line etc.) then it's quite easy to obtain a +12v stabilized power supply, and to increase the stabilized voltage to 13.7v or more (limit is imposed by the internal over-voltage protection circuit and by the 16 volt capacitor on the output).
Of course it's not my intention to use the TK2050 with 12v. I will use that board @ 28-29v.
And I will not tell you anything about the custom smps that I've in mind

Originally Posted by teamacc

The wide power range: the board can operate from 16 to 24 volts or so, that is quite wide for a res-div.

Of course the voltage divider has to be calculated according to a predefinite voltage. Once you have chosen the voltage (for example 28v) you can calculate the right resistors value for your needs.
It's a diy affair, wouldn't be possible to include an "all-purpose" voltage divider directly on board, I agree 100% with you.
Bye!!

[redkid]

I recieved my board this week and the postal service must have sat on the box but the board was intact. When hooked up only one channel would have sound but with a few slight taps on the heat sink the other channel would engage. Every time I power it up I have to do it.
The sound is nice but only as loud as any of my 2020 or 2024 boards. I then reconnected my Sure 2050 board with the same source, speakers and power (~26v DC Sla) and it is much louder. Anybody have any suggestions or advice it would be most appreciated. Thanks

[Don Jerry]

Originally Posted by redkid

I recieved my board this week and the postal service must have sat on the box but the board was intact. When hooked up only one channel would have sound but with a few slight taps on the heat sink the other channel would engage. Every time I power it up I have to do it.
The sound is nice but only as loud as any of my 2020 or 2024 boards. I then reconnected my Sure 2050 board with the same source, speakers and power (~26v DC Sla) and it is much louder. Anybody have any suggestions or advice it would be most appreciated. Thanks

I assume that this problem has to do with the amplifier input stage gain.
Have a look here (pag. 12-13):
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...h/mXyzwqtx.pdf

So changing values on Rf or Ri should be the way to increase the input stage gain. But if Rf and Ri are surface mount technology, then it will be not easy to change them.

I ask to hifimediy if my idea is correct and if Rf and Ri are smt or standard resistors.
Thanks, bye!

[Nick122147]

Originally Posted by redkid

I recieved my board this week and the postal service must have sat on the box but the board was intact. When hooked up only one channel would have sound but with a few slight taps on the heat sink the other channel would engage. Every time I power it up I have to do it.
The sound is nice but only as loud as any of my 2020 or 2024 boards. I then reconnected my Sure 2050 board with the same source, speakers and power (~26v DC Sla) and it is much louder. Anybody have any suggestions or advice it would be most appreciated. Thanks

could it be some bad connection in speakers connectors or input connector? Try to tap those places and see if you find out where the bad connection is. Study the board closely to see if you can discover something.
I think this is related to the low output as well.