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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 23rd June 2010, 01:45 AM   #271
glt is offline glt  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v-bro View Post
Change state on the config pin on the STA508 and connect the outputs together. Ideally one would use a single output filter, but two in parallel can't hurt either I gues....

Or get someone to build you an AMP11 from 41hz, or better an AMP11-HV....
(Psss: I'm asking for jumpers in the board :-))
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Old 23rd June 2010, 02:36 AM   #272
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default One channel

Quote:
Originally Posted by glt View Post
Apologize in advance if I'm boring everyone with my mono requirements, but this unit seems to lend itself to be used as single BLT (figure 7 of http://www.st.com/stonline/products/...e/an/10606.pdf) with very few modifications. I would be interested in a mono version also or instructions in converting it from double blt (figure 6 I suppose) to single paralleled blt (figure 7). The power dissipation will remain the same in the chip but more current will be delivered to the speaker... Thanks for the good work.
So if you do that you basically have one channel of the other amp module.
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Old 23rd June 2010, 06:13 AM   #273
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Old 23rd June 2010, 06:18 AM   #274
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Hifymediy, please tell me, are you using the following T68-2 coils on your TC2000 + paralleled ST505 board?
T68-2 Coils for TK2050 / TA3020 HIGH PWR Class-D AMPS - eBay (item 260617393324 end time Jul-09-10 17:10:25 PDT)
Let me know, thanks, bye!!!
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Old 23rd June 2010, 06:33 AM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Jerry View Post
Hifymediy, please tell me, are you using the following T68-2 coils on your TC2000 + paralleled ST505 board?
T68-2 Coils for TK2050 / TA3020 HIGH PWR Class-D AMPS - eBay (item 260617393324 end time Jul-09-10 17:10:25 PDT)
Let me know, thanks, bye!!!
Hi, we are using T60-2 now for v2.0. And T80-2 for v1.1B ALPS version.
BTW, for TA3020, we always use T106-2.
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Old 23rd June 2010, 07:43 AM   #276
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Default cable with rca available

I have made some of these cables that i will include for an additional fee for people who wants to get sound out of the board quick, no need to solder! Of course, if you later want to put the board in a case and install the plugs into the case, you will ned to desolder them.
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Old 23rd June 2010, 09:22 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glt View Post
(Psss: I'm asking for jumpers in the board :-))
There is no jumpers on the board as you want. And I don't recommend changing the connection like that, for Class-T amplifiers always request good layout(changing connection mode means modify layout). I still recommend using high current power stage chips to fulfill your demand.
I'm thinking about new version that can use STA508 in parallel, and 160W+160W @4ohm will come out.

Last edited by hifimediy; 23rd June 2010 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 23rd June 2010, 12:19 PM   #278
teamacc is offline teamacc  Netherlands
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If you create an amplifier using two STA517B chips to their maximum, and incorporate a good cooling method, and still manage to do this for less than 100 euros, you will have me as a customer
Bear in mind that the coils might need to go for bigger/better ones, as there will be much more current flowing through them.
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Old 23rd June 2010, 12:29 PM   #279
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Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
BTW, for TA3020, we always use T106-2.
a TA3020 Version will also be contributed ...?

Second question: I received this week my V2.0 board. Thanks to Steinar by this way.

What does that red LED closed to the big cap mean ? It went ON in my case together with the green LED (power on ?). Is there something wrong with my board because usually a red LED light means "problem" in function. I connected the speakers after I powered the board. The amp is working an I can listen to music but I felt it a bit weak powered. Just my feeling. This can also be depended on the red LED light ON that still makes me busy in mind.
Supply power is solid 25 Volts. Sadly no + / - DC input polarity is described on the board. I took the last terminal on the edge of the board (as described in a short manual site from steinar) for DC + input. Hope this helps.

Not all DIY here are pure electrotechnicians.
Thanks in advance
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Old 23rd June 2010, 12:48 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
a TA3020 Version will also be contributed ...?

Second question: I received this week my V2.0 board. Thanks to Steinar by this way.

What does that red LED closed to the big cap mean ? It went ON in my case together with the green LED (power on ?). Is there something wrong with my board because usually a red LED light means "problem" in function. I connected the speakers after I powered the board. The amp is working an I can listen to music but I felt it a bit weak powered. Just my feeling. This can also be depended on the red LED light ON that still makes me busy in mind.
Supply power is solid 25 Volts. Sadly no + / - DC input polarity is described on the board. I took the last terminal on the edge of the board (as described in a short manual site from steinar) for DC + input. Hope this helps.

Not all DIY here are pure electrotechnicians.
Thanks in advance
the red light just mean there is power input. the green light means the relays are turn on.

the + - for dc is the same which one you use, because of the bridge.
what kind of speakers do you have? it shouldnt feel weak powered, what input are you running into it?
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