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Old 15th June 2010, 09:33 PM   #221
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Default Heatsink

Some guys here had some burned modules so I inspected the heat sink on my modules that I received last week.
One module had loose screws so the heat sink wasn't fixed anymore. This was probably due to the shipping.
So I added lock washers and tightened the screws.
But you have to watch out to not tighten the screws too much because then the PCB will bend and the ICs won't make anymore contact with the heat sink.

Then I noticed that there are two not used holes in the middle of the PCB, but no holes in the heat sink.
If I could put extra screws in those holes I would be able to tighten the heat sink much better without bending the PCB.
So I tapped two extra holes in the heat sink, added some new grease and tightened four screws with lock washers.
Now the heat sink is installed perfectly !
PCB is not bended and there's a much better contact between heatsink and ICs.
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Old 15th June 2010, 10:30 PM   #222
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When inspecting my board I thought the same, too bad I thought about this after it overheated.

Your suggestions should be carried out in the production IMO.
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Old 16th June 2010, 02:45 AM   #223
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Hifimediy is currently doing some testing so we can know max safe voltage for these boards. Also looking into the heatsink issue. For now I recommend everyone to check that the screws on the heatsink is tightened when you receive it after the shipping.
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Old 16th June 2010, 02:49 AM   #224
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Default Sta505

Hifimediy told me yesterday that he has already changed from tp2050 to sta505. The controller, which is supposedly the most important for the sound quality, is still the tc2000. From what I understand the sta505 and tp2050 are very similar, maybe the sta505 is a little better. Comments?

Most of the boards shipped out should have the sta505 already, but I don't know exactly which ones, or how many that has got the tp2050.

I will update the ebay auction shortly to reflect this.
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Old 16th June 2010, 02:50 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glt View Post
Is it just a matter of the relays? the sureelectronics board are advertised to work from 10V up. I suppose I can bypass the relays if I choose to use only 12V. Thanks for all your work and info.
You can bypass the relays like this. However, this feature is not tested, and you would get the "pop" sound on turn on/off which the relays are supposed to remove. I would recommend doubling the voltage to 24V instead.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 16th June 2010, 10:56 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
Hifimediy told me yesterday that he has already changed from tp2050 to sta505. The controller, which is supposedly the most important for the sound quality, is still the tc2000. From what I understand the sta505 and tp2050 are very similar, maybe the sta505 is a little better. Comments?
According to the datasheets, the STA505 is capable of 50W @ 8 ohm with 10% THD while the TP2050 is capable of 50W @ 8 ohm with 3% THD+N.
(notice that the STA505 refers to THD while the TP2050 to THD+N. I assume that STA505 wants the same to indicate the THD+N when speaking about THD).

STA505: http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...onics/8166.pdf

TP2050: TP2050 pdf, TP2050 description, TP2050 datasheets, TP2050 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

So che TP2050 should sound better (more 'audiophile').
Also I noticed that the STA505 max voltage is 40V vs. TP2050 36V.
So the STA505 *could* produce less heat at the same voltage of 30V and not burns till 34V.

Now I add my suggestion for the next board revision:

Click the image to open in full size.

Even though toroids are essentially self-shielding, turning the adjacent parts 90 degrees reduces the magnetic coupling and thus crosstalk.

About the relays I've to ask you, is there a timed circuit or the relays turn on immediately when the input voltage is applied?
In such case I assume that the pop speaker prevenction works only when you turn off the amplifier and not during turn on.
What do you think about?
Thanks, bye!!
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Old 17th June 2010, 04:43 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Jerry View Post
According to the datasheets, the STA505 is capable of 50W @ 8 ohm with 10% THD while the TP2050 is capable of 50W @ 8 ohm with 3% THD+N.
(notice that the STA505 refers to THD while the TP2050 to THD+N. I assume that STA505 wants the same to indicate the THD+N when speaking about THD).

STA505: http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...onics/8166.pdf

TP2050: TP2050 pdf, TP2050 description, TP2050 datasheets, TP2050 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

So che TP2050 should sound better (more 'audiophile').
Also I noticed that the STA505 max voltage is 40V vs. TP2050 36V.
So the STA505 *could* produce less heat at the same voltage of 30V and not burns till 34V.

Now I add my suggestion for the next board revision:

Click the image to open in full size.

Even though toroids are essentially self-shielding, turning the adjacent parts 90 degrees reduces the magnetic coupling and thus crosstalk.

About the relays I've to ask you, is there a timed circuit or the relays turn on immediately when the input voltage is applied?
In such case I assume that the pop speaker prevenction works only when you turn off the amplifier and not during turn on.
What do you think about?
Thanks, bye!!
Hi.
3% THD+N of TP2050 is tested with TC2000, which is more important for the performance of the system. You may check the datasheet to find that STA505 is same as TP2050, including voltage range. Because of TP2050 is almost out of stock on the market now, STA505 is the best compatible part in my opinion.
And 90degree placement is good idea when the toroids is too close to each other. but it's ok now in our boards.
About relays, it has a time(about 1~2 secs) for relays turn on after power on. And we also have a added power supervisor IC to prevent clik-noise on board. Thanks.
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Old 17th June 2010, 07:55 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
Because of TP2050 is almost out of stock on the market now, STA505 is the best compatible part in my opinion.
Are the Tripath chips still being manufactured? I know the IP was bought by another company, but it's never been clear (to me, anyway) where all these chips come from.
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Old 17th June 2010, 11:55 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
You can bypass the relays like this. However, this feature is not tested, and you would get the "pop" sound on turn on/off which the relays are supposed to remove. I would recommend doubling the voltage to 24V instead.
Another thing necesary for run at low voltages:
Bypass the relay and also lower the value of R27 which is near the LM7805. Bypass R27 for 12V
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Old 17th June 2010, 12:18 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sendler
Those look very nice. The Tripath TK2050 chip set makes a great budget amp. Much better than a pair of bridged 3886 which is way better than a single 3886 that is so popular. I have a lifetime supply of Sure 2X100 boards but would be interested to see what the future price and availability of these will be to recommend to friends. The coils look like they are wound on the smallish 68mm type 2 cores. These cores may be ok for a 2020 amp running 12v supplies but are kind of small for a 2050 amp. I like the Wurth WE-PD, XXL coils in smaller values of 6.8 or even 4.7uH for an 8 amp rating vs about 3 amps for those. The type 2 cores are the most common since they are the ones that Tripath originally recommended but even with 18guage wire on my 106mm cores they are not as transparent as the Wurths which come preasembled and ready to install for $4. Are the heat sinks glued on? That will make it hard to do any mods. I assume he set the feedback resistors to accommodate a fairly high supply voltage such as 32v so it may not be necessary to get under them any way. Those input caps are quite popular right now and are reportedly quite good. I have people telling me to try a silver mica cap for a bypass but I haven't done it yet. It might be fun to compare a transformer to the MeanWell SMPS. In my experience the MeanWell would sound better. You could try connecting on the board after the rectifier to hear if it sounds any better. The on board turn on delay is nice as the Sure has quite a thump.
Thanks, thats informing. Why is it those coils is ok for 12V, but not for 30V ? Is ist just that those are small if run it close to 100W output?
Where can I buy those Wurth coils? I did a search but couldn't find anything.
The heatsinks are fastened with screws on, so should be easy to remove.
Hifimediy, have you got some news about the coils issue?
Did you do some test with different coils to determine if there are audible differences?
Thanks, bye!!
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