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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 26th October 2012, 05:57 PM   #2181
Trebla is offline Trebla  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarpMalone View Post
I was using a HP smps and had the same issue. Ever since I switched to a ConnexElectronic smps It's been silent. A cheap Meanwell clone from EBay works well too if you don't mind the size
That's good to know. Thanks.
I'll get a better smps when funds allow.

In the meantime, i have enough bits to put together a decent linear supply.
Just out of interest.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 11:15 AM   #2182
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Hi, Trebla. Pls contact us if you can't solve this problem.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 04:12 PM   #2183
Trebla is offline Trebla  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
Hi, Trebla. Pls contact us if you can't solve this problem.
Thanks for replying.
The problem turned out to be the cheap SMPS, as expected.
I built a basic linear supply which works quietly, and there is a decent SMPS on the way.
So no problems now.
It's a nice amp.
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Old 25th November 2012, 07:16 AM   #2184
ctkhaw is offline ctkhaw  Malaysia
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Have been using T1 for more than 1/2 year, then just a couple of hours ago detected burning smell and a few seconds later the amp went silent. Immediately switch it off and open up to check for any burnt parts but could not detect any. An hour later switch it on again, found that green LED is lighted but red LED is not, but still no sound.

But from hifimediy manual mention: I quote " The red light means that there is power connected, the green light means that the relays have turned on and the amp is functional. Normally both lights should come on. If the green light does not come one, either the voltage is too low or a technical problem has occured "

But in my case no red LED but got green LED !!

For info I am using ConnexElectronic smps300R

How to proceed from here.....sos
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Old 27th November 2012, 12:04 AM   #2185
ctkhaw is offline ctkhaw  Malaysia
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Could anyone suggest how to do any diagnostic test to pinpoint to any possible component failure?

'hifimediy' input should be helpful.

btw I am using an unmodified T1 with 36V SMPS300R
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Old 27th November 2012, 06:10 PM   #2186
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Did you make any mods before ? And by the way: recommended voltage is about 28 V. For me 24 V are quite enough. No sense going into limits when you don't need.
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Old 28th November 2012, 05:16 AM   #2187
ctkhaw is offline ctkhaw  Malaysia
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As mentioned earlier it is unmodified T1 - sta510a output chip.
Recommended voltage is 35-36V from hifimediy product page.

I have been using it for >1/2 year without problem.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 11:35 PM   #2188
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Hi. I just replaced my fully modded Sure with T2. My first impression is that there is less bass and less resolution. Is there any list of modificatios besides swapping input caps.? And mayby swapping volume pot for Alps?
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Old 16th December 2012, 11:46 AM   #2189
von Ah is offline von Ah  United States
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I've forgotten in the eons since this and the sure tk2050 started, but can these amps share a common (negative) output terminal? I'm thinking of trying center channel matrixing, like
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 16th December 2012, 11:53 AM   #2190
alkasar is offline alkasar  France
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you can not. These are BTL amps, with floating output. You should not connect both speaker- together, and definitively not to 0V.
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