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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 13th August 2012, 02:22 PM   #2141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whelibob View Post
Its getting quite expensive to use my ghettoblaster if i have to change the amp once a month. So it would be nice to know what have i done wrong.

Here is the burned chip:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...811_185319.jpg

All other components seem to be ok.
Hi, I'm sorry for that. There is some unknown situation when increase the gain. Could you see any chips burned? If the chips not burned, you can try to replay the bead with a short wire/ jumper.
And by the way, if you can, I think it's better idea to add a pre-amp when you find the output is not large enough.
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Old 13th August 2012, 02:31 PM   #2142
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Originally Posted by zanlation View Post
I came across while surfing the net, as your do on a Sunday afternoon, and discovered bass shakers. This got my mind thinking about using the spare channel on my T4 amplifier to output to a bass shaker. So, two channels would be LR and the other two would be centre and bass shaker. Here's the catch... my centre speaker is 8ohms and the bass shaker is 4ohms. I only need 50W for the bass shaker so power isn't an issue, but having two different ohms speakers might. Thoughts anyone?
I think T4 is no problem for the center speaker, but if you want to drive 4ohm bass shaker, you'd better use lower supply voltage for safe. or if you can make sure the input signal is not too high for bass, it will be ok too. The T4 use sta516B so you can get 100W max to 4ohm, must not be more.
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Old 19th August 2012, 09:43 PM   #2143
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T2 @ Special Edition TC2000 + TP2050

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Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by b4rr3l; 19th August 2012 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 17th September 2012, 05:59 PM   #2144
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Hi folks or Hifimediy,

I dummy did not care this time for the right diode direction. The red power diode of my T2 was extended to the power switch but sadly interchanged ...

After main powering smps made a buzzing noise and no lights went ON. Smps seems to be O.K. but after soldered into right position the amp still not works. Is the board damaged or what else can I do ... ?? Thanks.
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Old 18th September 2012, 02:31 PM   #2145
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Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
Hi folks or Hifimediy,

I dummy did not care this time for the right diode direction. The red power diode of my T2 was extended to the power switch but sadly interchanged ...

After main powering smps made a buzzing noise and no lights went ON. Smps seems to be O.K. but after soldered into right position the amp still not works. Is the board damaged or what else can I do ... ?? Thanks.
Hi, is "the red diode" means LED? I don't quite understand, sorry.
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Old 18th September 2012, 05:02 PM   #2146
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yes LED , but I have news. I tried another new T2 and this time I took care. The second T2 worked but after mounting into the chassis and connecting speaker-outs it made same problem like first T2. A buzzing noise while red LED is ON. I suspected the speaker-outs and disconnected them from amp. Indeed both amps work with a klick and speaker-relay LED (yellow) is ON. When connected the binding posts of the chassis to the T2 the noise again appears while the speaker-relay LED is OFF and red power LED is ON. It seems that I did not make a mistake with first LED. Both boards obviously work with disconnected speaker outs ...?!! I sent also an eMail to you. Thanks for your help.

Last edited by TheDealer; 18th September 2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 20th September 2012, 12:06 PM   #2147
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... anybody any suggestions, supposes ??

I made another thing. I have disconnected the speaker outs and switched the T2 ON. Power LED and speaker LED went ON with a klick noise. Fine. Then I touched one speakercable with + of left channel and instantly a small flash, klick and amp shuts down. Then again switched the T2 ON. This time I touched - of left channel. Again same thing appeared. Klick, lights OFF and amp shuts down.

Yubing it seems that both amps work without speakerconnections. If you remember I had same issue in the past with a T1. You said to me that my smps probably makes a problem.
The smps is not the problem because this time I checked up with 24 V battery and same thing happened again. Please PM or eMail. Thanks ...
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Old 20th September 2012, 01:36 PM   #2148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
yes LED , but I have news. I tried another new T2 and this time I took care. The second T2 worked but after mounting into the chassis and connecting speaker-outs it made same problem like first T2. A buzzing noise while red LED is ON. I suspected the speaker-outs and disconnected them from amp. Indeed both amps work with a klick and speaker-relay LED (yellow) is ON. When connected the binding posts of the chassis to the T2 the noise again appears while the speaker-relay LED is OFF and red power LED is ON. It seems that I did not make a mistake with first LED. Both boards obviously work with disconnected speaker outs ...?!! I sent also an eMail to you. Thanks for your help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDealer View Post
... anybody any suggestions, supposes ??

I made another thing. I have disconnected the speaker outs and switched the T2 ON. Power LED and speaker LED went ON with a klick noise. Fine. Then I touched one speakercable with + of left channel and instantly a small flash, klick and amp shuts down. Then again switched the T2 ON. This time I touched - of left channel. Again same thing appeared. Klick, lights OFF and amp shuts down.

Yubing it seems that both amps work without speakerconnections. If you remember I had same issue in the past with a T1. You said to me that my smps probably makes a problem.
The smps is not the problem because this time I checked up with 24 V battery and same thing happened again. Please PM or eMail. Thanks ...
Hi, I don't quite understand why it's fail when installed into the chassis. But I'm thinking about some possible reason. The first is that the input cable is not good connection, and then pls check the output cable(from amp to connectors), to see if any output terminal is Grounded. I suggest use a multimeter to check these upon carefully before power on, any mistake may kill the amplifier. There is also another possibility, the bottom of board touched the chassis (metal). And I also need a photo to check more if you can give
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Old 20th September 2012, 01:37 PM   #2149
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Hi Dealer... Have you checked for continuity between the binding posts and the enclosure? Are you sure you they're not shorted?
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Old 20th September 2012, 02:54 PM   #2150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarpMalone View Post
Hi Dealer... Have you checked for continuity between the binding posts and the enclosure? Are you sure you they're not shorted?
Plus one to that. DarpMalone and tamphist were right on with this when I had similar problems.

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New TK2050 board

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