New TK2050 board - Page 209 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 28th April 2012, 03:14 PM   #2081
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
no you will have to put your ear 10cm close to the speakers to hear it. no worries, it will never be noticed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bull041161 View Post
Do the meanwell power supplies hum aswell . Is the huming through the speakers as i would not beable to live with it if i heard a hum on quiet bits in the music
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th April 2012, 03:25 PM   #2082
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
for my T2, i bought the connexelectronic 38V smps300r from hifimediy. it's a bit more than the meanwell, but it's small to put in tight fitting case and runs real cool. ZERO hum even with just rough wiring (ie, no case etc, just a test setup). 28V costs the same as the 38V version. i'd recommend going for the max voltage suited to your board (around 34-35V, which the 38V one can be adjusted to).

just my opinion, i'd say you get what you pay for, you won't need to add any caps or worry about signal noise. worth paying the extra compared to the ebay one.

Power supplies
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th April 2012, 04:03 PM   #2083
alkasar is offline alkasar  France
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: near Paris, France
Quote:
Originally Posted by reg66 View Post
for my T2, i bought the connexelectronic 38V smps300r from hifimediy. it's a bit more than the meanwell, but it's small to put in tight fitting case and runs real cool. ZERO hum even with just rough wiring (ie, no case etc, just a test setup). 28V costs the same as the 38V version. i'd recommend going for the max voltage suited to your board (around 34-35V, which the 38V one can be adjusted to).

just my opinion, i'd say you get what you pay for, you won't need to add any caps or worry about signal noise. worth paying the extra compared to the ebay one.

Power supplies
+1
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2012, 01:52 PM   #2084
boone is offline boone  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, Or.
+2

T2 Special + connexelectronics power supply - very compact!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00390.jpg (280.5 KB, 533 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2012, 03:15 PM   #2085
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Powell River, BC Canada
Totally cool looking! What is that great case?

Rod
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2012, 04:07 PM   #2086
boone is offline boone  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, Or.
Rod,

Amp and power supply cased in a hot plate/toaster oven manufactured around 1937. It was called a caulkins breakfaster. Cast aluminum required a lot of elbow grease to make it look good.

boone
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00389.jpg (332.5 KB, 492 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2012, 04:51 PM   #2087
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Wicked! E
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2012, 05:50 AM   #2088
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by boone View Post
Rod,

Amp and power supply cased in a hot plate/toaster oven manufactured around 1937. It was called a caulkins breakfaster. Cast aluminum required a lot of elbow grease to make it look good.

boone
This is one of the best I've ever seen !!!!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2012, 05:55 AM   #2089
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
Quote:
Originally Posted by boone View Post
+2

T2 Special + connexelectronics power supply - very compact!
I want one!
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th May 2012, 04:37 PM   #2090
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Hey, is there any chance I could save my Hifimediy AMT 2050 V1.2?

I desoldered R1 and R3 inpu tresistors(?) to increase the gain. Yes, I should have read hifimediys post which told me to change R2 and R3 and not touch R1 at all. The problem is now that the thin connection under the surface of the PCB going from R3 towards TC2000 is cut and with my solder skills i am not able to solder it back on. The original value of all R1, R2, R3 and R5 are 22k ohm and I liked the gain value when my resistors values were R1 22k, R2 56k, R3 56k, R5 22k.
If i remember correct those resistor pairs(R1,R3 and R2,R5) were in parallel/series. So my question is is it possible to let R3 be unconnected and change R1 to a value that matches with R2 being 56k and R5 22k?

Another question, does it damage the amplifier when my R3 was unconnected and the amp was on. The channel voltage showed 29.4V :/

This was another lesson for me not do things in a hurry. Always something goes wrong.

Last edited by whelibob; 4th May 2012 at 04:59 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sure electronics 4*100 watt @ 4ohm, TK2050 D-class Audio Amplifier Board aquapiranha Class D 3 30th May 2011 11:06 PM
Any input on the new Dayton TK2050? finnbow Class D 10 2nd May 2011 11:37 PM
Parallled tk2050/st505 paolo66 Class D 1 24th November 2009 05:10 PM
New Sure electronics TK2050 T-amp xaudiox Class D 2 8th May 2009 07:50 AM
Tripath TK2050 Eccu Digital Source 0 19th April 2002 11:06 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:31 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2