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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 22nd March 2012, 07:34 AM   #2041
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Wink nice !!!

Hi
I would like to congratulate you for your amp. Looks lovely.
But i have some suggestions . If i were you i would move the amp board on the back side of the chassis & the power pcb on the front. By this way you will limit the length of the signal cables. You have tighten the left channel output cable with the AC input cables. This is not good, you might get noise coming from the AC line there. If it is not possible to do it (probably because of the limitations of your box) use a different route for the left channel output cable. Overall that is a very nice amp. I have the same one & just changed the input capacitors with better ones as you have already done with those wima mkp4 there (it is better to use wima mkp10 here) ..


[QUOTE=b4rr3l;2955325]Ok, here goes my finished T1 Alps STA510A v1.2 + Connexeletronics SMPS300R


Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by vmed_cha_gr; 22nd March 2012 at 07:44 AM.
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Old 22nd March 2012, 01:43 PM   #2042
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[QUOTE=vmed_cha_gr;2955793]Hi
I would like to congratulate you for your amp. Looks lovely.
But i have some suggestions . If i were you i would move the amp board on the back side of the chassis & the power pcb on the front. By this way you will limit the length of the signal cables. You have tighten the left channel output cable with the AC input cables. This is not good, you might get noise coming from the AC line there. If it is not possible to do it (probably because of the limitations of your box) use a different route for the left channel output cable. Overall that is a very nice amp. I have the same one & just changed the input capacitors with better ones as you have already done with those wima mkp4 there (it is better to use wima mkp10 here) ..


Quote:
Originally Posted by b4rr3l View Post
Ok, here goes my finished T1 Alps STA510A v1.2 + Connexeletronics SMPS300R


Click the image to open in full size.
I can route the left speaker in between PSU capacitors in the midle but them it will be closer to the PSU and its transformer, I don't know wich is worse but I haven't got any kind of noise or humm as it is now.
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Old 23rd March 2012, 11:01 AM   #2043
ericg is offline ericg  France
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Default boom!

My T1 board was not unmuting this morning so I have opened the case to discover that (chip cooler has been removed for the pictures):
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C32 has blown, PCB traces are damaged beyond repair and PCB itself is deeply burned.
The cap is 16 V, not sure it is adapted due to it's position:
Click the image to open in full size.

This ampli has not been pushed too hard as it is driving diy loudspeakers limited to 20W (8 ohms). It remains powered very often as I usually forgot to switch it off when the music end...

I have mailed Steinar to know if a repair or an exchange is possible. After having suffer from blown caps on V2 and sticky relay on this one, I almost ready to stop the experience...
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Old 23rd March 2012, 11:44 AM   #2044
ericg is offline ericg  France
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Old 23rd March 2012, 05:03 PM   #2045
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I haven't found any 270uf with higher specs, can I change it for a 330uf 35V? Or maybe change C34 also to keep the same capacitance?

is it better to go for a larger or smaller value since max current are supposed to be at 120mA?
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Old 24th March 2012, 06:46 AM   #2046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericg View Post
My T1 board was not unmuting this morning so I have opened the case to discover that (chip cooler has been removed for the pictures):
Did Hifimediy or Steinar not reply to your problem via eMail/PM ?
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Old 25th March 2012, 12:30 AM   #2047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b4rr3l View Post
I haven't found any 270uf with higher specs, can I change it for a 330uf 35V? Or maybe change C34 also to keep the same capacitance?

is it better to go for a larger or smaller value since max current are supposed to be at 120mA?
anyone?
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Old 26th March 2012, 04:31 PM   #2048
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Old 28th March 2012, 10:38 PM   #2049
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for anyone else that's interested and gets email updates to this thread, the Hifimediy T2 special version 2*100W@4ohm/50W@8ohm amplifier STA510a (Nichicon KG 10000uf) with MUNDORF MCAP input caps is back in stock!! others have said it's a great sounding piece of kit, but i can't comment yet having only just ordered it.
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Old 29th March 2012, 01:49 AM   #2050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b4rr3l View Post
I haven't found any 270uf with higher specs, can I change it for a 330uf 35V? Or maybe change C34 also to keep the same capacitance?

is it better to go for a larger or smaller value since max current are supposed to be at 120mA?
Hi, I think 220uF~680uF is ok here.

I also suggest using the sch bellow as we do on new T1.

R24 can be a 270~390ohm 1Watt resistor and C32 has range from 220~680uF, and no less than 35V. D2 is not installed.
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Last edited by hifimediy; 29th March 2012 at 01:52 AM.
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