New TK2050 board - Page 199 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 15th January 2012, 11:05 AM   #1981
nertia is offline nertia  Scotland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by TacticalTimbo View Post
Is there nobody with any input on this?
Not sure what to tell you Timbo, this is a DIY Forum and even then I don't think that putting together these boards with power supplies and cases is considered DIY by some of the experts here.

The product you have listed does contain the TK2050 chipset, but quite a low powered version (12V 30W into 4ohm) so don't expect to be listening a particularly high volumes. Other than that I have not heard this topping product so cannot comment further.

I have however tried both the Sure board and the HIFIMEDIY T2. Both give amazing value for money, but the Sure board requires some (quite sketchy for a beginner) modification to sound good. Both require a good quality power supply (Meanwell or Connexelectronic) to sound good.

I know its not the advice you were looking for but I would buy a HIFIMEDIY T1 (for 8ohm) or T2(for 4ohm) and a good PSU. Then find a box you can work with (some aluminum cases have plastic end pieces) you will also need an IEC power inlet (fused) x4 speaker connectors x2 RCA plugs and some hookup wire.

All this will probably cost twice as much as the Topping amp, and cost you a few gray hairs, but you will end up with a far more capable amp, better sound and a strange warm glow that only comes with DIY.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th January 2012, 11:12 AM   #1982
mfaughn is offline mfaughn  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sylva, NC
Quote:
Originally Posted by TacticalTimbo View Post
Is there nobody with any input on this?
probably not in this thread which is pretty much only concerned with amps from hifimediy. I know the thread title doesn't make that at all clear...which is unfortunate. try searching for posts on the Topping amp or starting a new thread.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th January 2012, 01:26 PM   #1983
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Thanks nertia and mfaughn, I wasn't really sure where to go for input on this as it seems most talk surrounds the ta2020/2021/2024 chips. It seems that tamps are fairly underground as it is anyway, as ask most people and all you will get is wtf mate? I am a techie sort in general and enjoy building computers etc but draw the line at soldering, plus while I'm very dissatisfied whenever I hear poor SQ (most ppl you meet could barely care), audio isn't exactly an area I'm confident in. Sorry if I plonked my post in the wrong place, I had read several pages beforehand and got the basic gist of what you were talking about but thought this could tie in. I am highly interested in a DIY job in the future but the fact there are maybe a dozen parts to ship form China and/or the USA, something is bound to either not arrive, arrive broken or be broken by me; this will lead to going through it all again!! maybe once I get a pre-built amp matched nicely to a pair of speakers and like the outcome, I can go head first into a DIY job...anywho, from what I've read I could 'hot-rod' the Topping and switch up to a better smps, no?

btw If I were to start a new thread, I take Amplifiers>Class D would be the right place?
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th January 2012, 01:51 PM   #1984
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
On the left of the IEC (looking at it from the rear as in your photos) shouldn't the Blue lead attach to the terminal above the earth terminal? You seem to have the Live and Neutral on the same plane.


Click the image to open in full size.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th January 2012, 03:39 PM   #1985
lovro is offline lovro  Croatia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
Hi, could you check the DC voltage from both OUT+ and OUT- to GND?
I'm getting 18.55v on the out+ and 18.59v on the out-, after I let it get stable temperature wise. It stays around 40C.
I'm getting around 18.5v on the right channel and also on the other board.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th January 2012, 04:05 AM   #1986
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
I bought a multimeter today and the guy at Jaycar showed me how to use it. He also provided a diagram for how I should wire the switch, fuse and power inputs. I did get the wiring wrong, so the switch would not have worked at all in my previous attempt.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th January 2012, 06:22 AM   #1987
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
Quote:
Originally Posted by zanlation View Post
I bought a multimeter today and the guy at Jaycar showed me how to use it. He also provided a diagram for how I should wire the switch, fuse and power inputs. I did get the wiring wrong, so the switch would not have worked at all in my previous attempt.
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th January 2012, 08:33 AM   #1988
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovro View Post
I'm getting 18.55v on the out+ and 18.59v on the out-, after I let it get stable temperature wise. It stays around 40C.
I'm getting around 18.5v on the right channel and also on the other board.
So it's ok on the output. I suggest you to re-solder the rp1 on the bottom.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th January 2012, 02:27 PM   #1989
sst4270 is offline sst4270  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
@zanlation,

This may or may not be important, but 'wood' is not an electrical conductor. And from the photos posted you've got the ground wires not only not connected to each other, but you have them connected to wood not a metal conductor.

unless they are connected underneath...

-Steve
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th January 2012, 08:55 PM   #1990
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by sst4270 View Post
@zanlation,

This may or may not be important, but 'wood' is not an electrical conductor. And from the photos posted you've got the ground wires not only not connected to each other, but you have them connected to wood not a metal conductor.

unless they are connected underneath...

-Steve
From my research, I thought that you did not use the same grounding location for the two grounds - mains socket and power supply. Each grounding wire is connected to a metal screw using two metal washers. The screw goes through to the bottom of the amplifier, through the timber, and is bolted to the base, which is above ground due to legs on the bottom of the box. Does this sound the correct method? Suggestions would be really appreciated.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sure electronics 4*100 watt @ 4ohm, TK2050 D-class Audio Amplifier Board aquapiranha Class D 3 30th May 2011 11:06 PM
Any input on the new Dayton TK2050? finnbow Class D 10 2nd May 2011 11:37 PM
Parallled tk2050/st505 paolo66 Class D 1 24th November 2009 05:10 PM
New Sure electronics TK2050 T-amp xaudiox Class D 2 8th May 2009 07:50 AM
Tripath TK2050 Eccu Digital Source 0 19th April 2002 11:06 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:14 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2