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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 13th January 2012, 01:22 PM   #1971
boone is offline boone  United States
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Location: Portland, Or.
Thanks Alkasar!

boone
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Old 13th January 2012, 06:06 PM   #1972
Boss187 is offline Boss187  Europe
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A quick question:

For a SMPS with low current (4.5A), would a 10000uF cap be more suited?

Trying to decide between the T1 CTR and T2 sta505 10000uF.
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Old 14th January 2012, 03:37 AM   #1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovro View Post
Hi,
well I have checked the rp1 and the trimmers extensively. Everything seems to work as expected.
I have reflowed all the solder joints.
I am getting the whole range (0-5v) on the trimmers.
I have also reflowed the solder joints on the R1,R2,R3,R5 resistors.
All the values of the resistors I am measuring in circuit seen the same as on the properly functioning board.

And still everything is the same, I am getting 65mv on one channel.
What should I do next?

Lovro
Hi, could you check the DC voltage from both OUT+ and OUT- to GND?
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Old 14th January 2012, 04:42 AM   #1974
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I have finalized my amp using the T4 and SMPS500R. When I switch it on nothing happens. The LED light on the T4 doesn't light up. I have attached a few photos below and would love some feedback on what the issue could be?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 14th January 2012, 10:30 AM   #1975
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The black power input you use , does it consit of switch - fuse ?
Is the fuse there.
Do you have any output from your power supply?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zanlation View Post
I have finalized my amp using the T4 and SMPS500R. When I switch it on nothing happens. The LED light on the T4 doesn't light up. I have attached a few photos below and would love some feedback on what the issue could be?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 14th January 2012, 05:10 PM   #1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacticalTimbo View Post
Hi, noob here, probably with a question that will be annoying! Basically I don't have any experience with soldering and don't even own a iron, nor can I for the life of me work out what I would make an enclosure out of...I don't have a smelly old cigar box laying around. I'm just looking for a half decent ready to run amp based on the tk2050 IC, for use with my PC. Currently I've got a 2.1 set of Acoustic Energy Ageo M's:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000MN96T...SIN=B000MN96T6

Would one of these be an improvement:

NEW TOPPING TP22 TP-22 & TK2050 T-AMP 2X30W & Tripath Class | eBay

I realise this is far tamer than any of the 2*100/4*100 boards being discussed hear (and possibly more money) but I will absolutely 100% mess up with a DIY job and don't want something that looks like a 5yr olds project! BTW I do also own an Onkyo TX-SR606, 8 chan AV receiver but it is absolutely huge and I've heard it's not very musical (right now its in the garage--no space). I would also need some bookshelf's as I don't have anything appropriate right now, any low cost suggestions would be great!
Is there nobody with any input on this?
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Old 14th January 2012, 09:30 PM   #1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmed_cha_gr View Post
The black power input you use , does it consit of switch - fuse ?
Is the fuse there.
Do you have any output from your power supply?
The black power input does consist of switch and fuse (and it is present). I don't have a meter to measure output from the power supply. This is something I will need to get if the wiring looks fine.
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Old 15th January 2012, 02:08 AM   #1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zanlation View Post
The black power input does consist of switch and fuse (and it is present). I don't have a meter to measure output from the power supply. This is something I will need to get if the wiring looks fine.
Should the neutral (blue) go to the switch before the mains?
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Old 15th January 2012, 02:56 AM   #1979
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The inlet switch is a DPST.
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Old 15th January 2012, 06:09 AM   #1980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zanlation View Post
The black power input does consist of switch and fuse (and it is present). I don't have a meter to measure output from the power supply. This is something I will need to get if the wiring looks fine.
I strongly suggest you to find a meter and make sure the power is ok before connect to the amp board. Preparation may quicken your job
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