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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 4th December 2011, 06:50 PM   #1941
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Are you saying that the T1-M is too noisy without using a 10dB L-pad before a 113dB/W CD?
What PSU is that?

My intended use for one is to drive a CD of about 110dB/W
Preferably without a L-pad.
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Old 6th December 2011, 02:07 AM   #1942
fb is offline fb  Australia
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I'm using a 12V line from an ATX PSU (I already had it powering my miniDSP2x8).

A better PSU may yield less noise, and my construction technique is probably not the best.

I'm actually quite happy with the T1-M. With the L-pad I can quite comfortably listen nearfield (~1 - 1.5m) and hear no hiss at all. Most people's listening positions are going to be further away than that, and the L-pad may not be necessary.
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Old 9th December 2011, 02:16 AM   #1943
sorue is offline sorue  Singapore
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Is it possible to take out the volume pot to make it a power amp without suffering any sonic degradation? Don't wish to get the power amp version since i want the flexibility of using it as an integrated for secondary systems.
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Old 10th December 2011, 05:08 AM   #1944
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Hi Sorue. I think remove the pot is ok and you just know how to do it and add 2x jumpers to the pads to let signal pass through.
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Old 16th December 2011, 12:50 PM   #1945
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Hi everyone,

I would be interested in setting up an amp based on a T3S. I intend to buy the smps from hifimediy along with the card. What version should I take? Can the 300w one be enough? Or should I go with the 500w one?

Also, I may also add a T3 card (I may add a center channel to my setup). Can I plug it to the same smps (if I take the 500w one for example), or will I may have some noise as when people used to setup 2 T3 cards on the same psu? If not, would there be enough power on the 500w psu for the T3S + one T3?

Thanks!

Last edited by abarth92; 16th December 2011 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 23rd December 2011, 10:10 AM   #1946
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Hi
Using an ATX power supply with these amps is completely wrong. If you use a much more decent power supply you will transform the sound of your amp.
All topics here state that the worse power supply for class d is an ATX one.
Vassilis
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Old 23rd December 2011, 10:38 AM   #1947
MX48 is offline MX48  United States
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I am currently powering the CD's on my 3-way active speakers with the PE TK2050 4 channel amp and powering it with a PE 24 VDC 14.6A 350W Power Supply.

I am thinking of replacing it with a T1-M:
-Would this be considered and upgrade?
-Is the PE power supply I have correct for this board?
-I would need 2 boards as it is for LCR speakers. If the power supply is OK can I power both boards with it?

This is a budget thing and $82 shipped is within budget .
And obviously I am a noob.

Thanks for any help
Moto
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Old 23rd December 2011, 01:38 PM   #1948
Havoc08 is offline Havoc08  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmed_cha_gr View Post
Hi
Using an ATX power supply with these amps is completely wrong. If you use a much more decent power supply you will transform the sound of your amp.
All topics here state that the worse power supply for class d is an ATX one.
Vassilis
Please elaborate with references.
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Old 26th December 2011, 09:13 AM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX48 View Post
I am currently powering the CD's on my 3-way active speakers with the PE TK2050 4 channel amp and powering it with a PE 24 VDC 14.6A 350W Power Supply.

I am thinking of replacing it with a T1-M:
-Would this be considered and upgrade?
-Is the PE power supply I have correct for this board?
-I would need 2 boards as it is for LCR speakers. If the power supply is OK can I power both boards with it?

This is a budget thing and $82 shipped is within budget .
And obviously I am a noob.

Thanks for any help
Moto
Hello. 24V DC 14.6A is ok to make double T1-M work.
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Old 31st December 2011, 03:54 PM   #1950
sst4270 is offline sst4270  United States
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Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Default Help My Board Smoked

Hi,

I'm looking for guidance. I purchased a T1 board last year (V1.2) and power supply from Hifimediy and just got around to hooking it up. No modifications to the board. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was to connect L & R INPUTS (not outputs) together. I wouldn't think that would have any negative impact on the amp.

Anyways the amp started smoking. I immediately cut power (27VDC measured BTW). Disconnected input. Separated inputs. Turned power back on and no smoke, but the output is much lower than I would expect.
I feel like something is blown, but I have no idea where to start looking (SMT components are small even with a magnifying glass).

I read through this thread and noticed some issues with caps on the underside (page 83). I'm not sure if this could be my problem. Maybe I got one of the boards from that batch.

I was playing the amp through an 8-ohm highly efficient speaker (98db). I was expecting it to play much louder than 'bedroom level'.

Hi res pictures attached. As you can see no modifications and no glaring discolored components.

Any suggestions?

Thanks so much in advance.

Steve
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