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Old 21st May 2010, 09:26 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamacc View Post
Why not put 2 12v relays in series? That way you will have less voltage to drop, but the same amperage.
hi, I just test new boards with 24V relay, and it works good. resistor cool down now.
and 2x 12V relay in series is ok too. not much difference from 24V in parallel i think.
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Old 21st May 2010, 10:16 AM   #132
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if someone want to change relay connection to in series, please follow these steps:
1. remove diode D12 (hole mounted 1N4007) and the relay near it.
2. cut off two tracks and short 2 holes show in the photo.
3. assemble the diode and relay. done.
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.AMT2050 V2.0 relay to series[/IMG]
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Old 21st May 2010, 11:22 AM   #133
von Ah is offline von Ah  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sled108 View Post

Nice. 3 amps is better than 2.4
Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by teamacc
Just + will do, no need for negative voltage

The psu looks a little undersized, you might wanna upgrade to more amperes, but some beefy buffer caps might do the job just as well.
Thanks!

Last edited by von Ah; 21st May 2010 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 23rd May 2010, 05:13 AM   #134
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Hi, I'm planing the new 50W+50W amp now, this is new design.
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.AMT2050 V1.1B[/IMG]
V1.1B has the same board size and potmeter location as AMT2050 V2.0, but it's DC input only. For V1.1B, a switch and a relay are added to switch power, the swith system is designed to prevent power input polarity reverse, this design will be better than just using a diode.
Could anyone give me some suggestion to improve?

hifimediy
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Old 23rd May 2010, 05:24 AM   #135
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Default SPDT switch

[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.Taiway SPDT[/IMG]
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Old 23rd May 2010, 06:18 AM   #136
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Default why not sta517b

Since STA517B now is available, why not design a board with it, like 41hz amp11-hv does, that will be a huge hit here, I believe
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Old 23rd May 2010, 08:41 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
Hi, I'm planing the new 50W+50W amp now, this is new design.
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.AMT2050 V1.1B[/IMG]
V1.1B has the same board size and potmeter location as AMT2050 V2.0, but it's DC input only. For V1.1B, a switch and a relay are added to switch power, the swith system is designed to prevent power input polarity reverse, this design will be better than just using a diode.
Could anyone give me some suggestion to improve?

hifimediy
Hi hifimediy, i would leave more space between the right output coil and the input caps. Also distance between electrolytic caps C33/C37 and the heatsink is too small. Hot caps die soon. The tank cap is quite small with 1800 uF, make that a 2200/3300/4700 uf with at least 2 mm space between it and the heatsink. I hope the tank cap is always under voltage as when you will switch it with the relay the relays contacts will burn in quite soon. You could use 2 smaller caps. So 1800 uF before the relay and one 1800 after the relay.

Swap CN2 and relays K3 as it will be a more logical layout then. Don't change anything that might look better but is worse technically in your opinion !

Moving all LEDs to one spot will be more logical. A connector in the upper right corner or even better in the lower left corner would be more tidy. The lower left corner is more logical as one tends to mount LEDs on a front panel. You can connect a small cable harness to the 2 LEDs that will be mounted on the front panel. LEDs that are not visible have no function If the layout would suffer please keep it like it is now as sound quality is much more important than LEDs.

Connector J1 is also placed not optimal. Please move it over to the spot where the text "AMT2050 " is. And move that text to the spot where J1 was and it will be OK. Wiring should be kept as short as possible. It makes no sense to me to put the connector near the front panel. Wiring will be longer for no reason and it will look messy, can pick up garbage if unshielded wire is used etc. The connector is also too close to the mounting stud + bolt which will make it more easy to damage it.

This should be a version 2.1 or like wise if it has the same name "AMT2050" as it is newer than the old one. Again I think that offering a version with 4 or 5 inputs and a Alps RK27 would be a unique version as all manufacturers offer amps with only one input. When you add pads for the RK27 you can leave the choice to the buyer. Either the cheaper one that is offered now or a small upgrade to RK27.
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Last edited by jean-paul; 23rd May 2010 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 23rd May 2010, 08:45 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifimediy View Post
if someone want to change relay connection to in series, please follow these steps:
1. remove diode D12 (hole mounted 1N4007) and the relay near it.
2. cut off two tracks and short 2 holes show in the photo.
3. assemble the diode and relay. done.
[IMG]Click the image to open in full size.AMT2050 V2.0 relay to series[/IMG]
Methinks the resistor should be lower in value when the relays are connected in series.
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Old 23rd May 2010, 09:32 AM   #139
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Originally Posted by Albrerta View Post
Since STA517B now is available, why not design a board with it, like 41hz amp11-hv does, that will be a huge hit here, I believe
hi, it's another product (larger boards needed) i think, and i will consider it next time. Good suggestion, thanks.
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Old 23rd May 2010, 10:05 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jean-paul View Post
Hi hifimediy, i would leave more space between the right output coil and the input caps. Also distance between electrolytic caps C33/C37 and the heatsink is too small. Hot caps die soon. The tank cap is quite small with 1800 uF, make that a 2200/3300/4700 uf with at least 2 mm space between it and the heatsink. I hope the tank cap is always under voltage as when you will switch it with the relay the relays contacts will burn in quite soon. You could use 2 smaller caps. So 1800 uF before the relay and one 1800 after the relay.

Swap CN2 and relays K3 as it will be a more logical layout then. Don't change anything that might look better but is worse technically in your opinion !

Moving all LEDs to one spot will be more logical. A connector in the upper right corner or even better in the lower left corner would be more tidy. The lower left corner is more logical as one tends to mount LEDs on a front panel. You can connect a small cable harness to the 2 LEDs that will be mounted on the front panel. LEDs that are not visible have no function If the layout would suffer please keep it like it is now as sound quality is much more important than LEDs.

Connector J1 is also placed not optimal. Please move it over to the spot where the text "AMT2050 " is. And move that text to the spot where J1 was and it will be OK. Wiring should be kept as short as possible. It makes no sense to me to put the connector near the front panel. Wiring will be longer for no reason and it will look messy, can pick up garbage if unshielded wire is used etc. The connector is also too close to the mounting stud + bolt which will make it more easy to damage it.

This should be a version 2.1 or like wise if it has the same name "AMT2050" as it is newer than the old one. Again I think that offering a version with 4 or 5 inputs and a Alps RK27 would be a unique version as all manufacturers offer amps with only one input. When you add pads for the RK27 you can leave the choice to the buyer. Either the cheaper one that is offered now or a small upgrade to RK27.
Hi, jean-paul. thank for your suggestions.
This is a DC supply board and i have to prevent polarity reverse, that's why i don't put elec-caps before the relay. May be it's better to add a PSU board for best use.
About CN2 and K3, they seem very logical for layout now and i will show the layout behind. so it's ok i think.
For LEDs, i place a protection LED near the right uper coner to prevent long distance route. I think it's better to use wire to mount it on the front panel if necessary.
And for J1, same reason for place it near the pot, the track will be shortest. it's also keep same as V2.0 does.
I have to explain how V1.1B comes.For this version, it's not paralleled, so it will be V1.x, and i already have V1.0 before. V2.x means paralleled power stage boards(there is just V2.0 now).
I will consider all of your advice and do changes when it's needed, and I also may take some of them for my other products. thanks again.
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