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Old 16th February 2011, 10:37 AM   #1361
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Pop can well be solved by using the right input capacitor, but I am not going to further dig into that because this has already been discussed a million times....

All I can say is you should stay well away from the barrel sized high voltage junk.

Another way is to properly sequence the speaker relay, this doesn't really solve the pop, but just make it harmless....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhG9JjTRjJY
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Last edited by v-bro; 16th February 2011 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 16th February 2011, 11:17 AM   #1362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v-bro View Post
Pop can well be solved by using the right input capacitor, but I am not going to further dig into that because this has already been discussed a million times....

All I can say is you should stay well away from the barrel sized high voltage junk.

Another way is to properly sequence the speaker relay, this doesn't really solve the pop, but just make it harmless....

YouTube - Tripath anti pop turn on/off circuit for SLEEP and MUTE
I thought that T1 & T2 from hifimediy have anti on/off pop included onboard already

I've been reading quite a bit over here on last times, but only enaugh to let me decide to assemble my first diy amplifier (my electronics knowledge was 0 before that, and only a little bit more now, sorry)

Can you explain this: "All I can say is you should stay well away from the barrel sized high voltage junk."...
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Old 16th February 2011, 11:20 AM   #1363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaloDourado View Post
I thought that T1 & T2 from hifimediy have anti on/off pop included onboard already

I've been reading quite a bit over here on last times, but only enaugh to let me decide to assemble my first diy amplifier (my electronics knowledge was 0 before that, and only a little bit more now, sorry)

Can you explain this: "All I can say is you should stay well away from the barrel sized high voltage junk."...
Hi, the t1 and t2 have anti pop relay's. Maybe something got damaged when you connected GND wrong.? can you hear the relays click now?
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Old 16th February 2011, 11:30 AM   #1364
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Originally Posted by Nick122147 View Post
Hi, the t1 and t2 have anti pop relay's. Maybe something got damaged when you connected GND wrong.? can you hear the relays click now?
I'm sure relays click on power-on; I must check if they do it also on power-off (I was paying more attention to speaker pop, so I did not realize).

I will post it later when back home
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Old 16th February 2011, 12:39 PM   #1365
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Hence my statement 'properly sequenced'.... The relays themselves don't prevent the pops, it's the timing/delay circuitry... (see my video)

The relays should click on later than the amp unmutes and click off before it mutes... The circuit on the breadoard there in my video can do that at a single flick of a switch. In the circuit that is attached it doesn't sequence a speaker relay though, but the SLEEP and MUTE pins directly. This doesn't always work well, but with a relay added it should be 100% fail safe....

The T1 and T2 boards should have pretty similar circuitry on the board, but I don't know these amps at all....
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Old 19th February 2011, 12:28 PM   #1366
Mazeppa is offline Mazeppa  United States
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Originally Posted by Jumpin John View Post
Do the Wurth coils run hot on the T1? I have read that they run quite warm on the Sure board.
Sorry to be so long replying, been gone for a while.

No, the Wurth coils on my T1 are no warmer than the heatsink nearby. The area between the output coils and the heatsink is the warmest on the board. I noticed this before the coils were changed and the trend has duplicated itself with the Wurth's.

I did run my T1 w/the Wurth's full range for a while before they were relegated to mid/tweeter duty and the coils were not noticeably warmer then, either.

No problems at all for me with this mod, all good.

Last edited by Mazeppa; 19th February 2011 at 12:34 PM. Reason: add "and the heatsink"
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Old 19th February 2011, 05:02 PM   #1367
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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Coils usually get hottest at idle, 99% of all persons testing this expect the opposite...
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Old 19th February 2011, 06:53 PM   #1368
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Originally Posted by Mazeppa View Post
Sorry to be so long replying, been gone for a while.

No, the Wurth coils on my T1 are no warmer than the heatsink nearby. The area between the output coils and the heatsink is the warmest on the board. I noticed this before the coils were changed and the trend has duplicated itself with the Wurth's.

I did run my T1 w/the Wurth's full range for a while before they were relegated to mid/tweeter duty and the coils were not noticeably warmer then, either.

No problems at all for me with this mod, all good.
Thanks for the reply, it sounds like an interesting and relatively cheap experiment. I like the fact that the T1 runs significantly cooler than the T2(I have both) and would not want to add a lot of heat to the board. I may give the Wurth's a try and see if I can detect any improvement in an already good sound quality.
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Old 19th February 2011, 09:16 PM   #1369
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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It's all a fight within the margin, want some big improvement get some BIG iron powder toroid inductors and see the idle current go down as well as the overall quality go up.

I can hear some tooth grinding going on:"But that is expensive!"....."But that won't fit on my board!"

Click the image to open in full size.

Heck yeah!....
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Old 20th February 2011, 01:20 AM   #1370
eladmi is offline eladmi  Germany
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Hi,

I have a (probably stupid) question.

Is it possible to optimize the input sensitivity of the T2 board for iPod/iPhone devices?

The manual says:

Quote:
2.2 Audio input connection
The input impedance is 50KOhm.
The input sensitivity is 1V. A normal CD player or DAC output will
normally provide sufficient power to drive the amp to its full output
power. An ipod or portable audio player might not supply enough
power to drive the amp to its maximum output power.
Is there a simple workaround or do I have to use a preamp?

Thanks
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