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Old 11th January 2011, 09:25 PM   #1271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarpMalone View Post
I don't speak from experience (I don't have any speakers this efficient), but I would think that even a TA2020 amp would sufficiently drive these speakers that you're referring to... No?
W.r.t. power, yes indeed, but the TK2050 chipset has better distortion specs and sounds noticeably better than TA2020 et al.
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Old 11th January 2011, 09:39 PM   #1272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alkasar View Post
T2 THD measures are in post #712 in this thread.
I think T1 and T3 measures were never published.
It should be fine to have them... it will help a lot to decide what amp to choose for a given loudspeaker!


Quote:
Originally Posted by whaleman View Post
Yes, you can do that. It is what I did, see pic below.
Tks Whaleman.

Just two more questions (sorry, complety new in diy):
- Is there an "easy way" to duplicate red & green leds in front panel?
- Is grounding needed for these amps? I'm planning to put them in an mdf/laminate case.
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Old 11th January 2011, 09:42 PM   #1273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kristleifur View Post
W.r.t. power, yes indeed, but the TK2050 chipset has better distortion specs and sounds noticeably better than TA2020 et al.
I'm not sure what W.R.T. means, but I definitely agree with what you're saying... My point was only to express that any 2050 amp that he chooses will more than sufficiently power these speakers
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Old 11th January 2011, 10:09 PM   #1274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaloDourado View Post
Tks Whaleman.

Just two more questions (sorry, complety new in diy):
- Is there an "easy way" to duplicate red & green leds in front panel?
- Is grounding needed for these amps? I'm planning to put them in an mdf/laminate case.
Not easy, but you can cut the LEDs so that half the LED's connector is on the board and the other half on the LED itself and solder a wire in between them like an extension. You must mark the polarity as it can not be reversed. Or you may find it easier to just remove the LED from the board and solder a wire between it and the LED. Either way, you will need some skill to do this and keep the same polarity.

No grounding is not needed and you can not tie both speaker grounds together.
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Old 11th January 2011, 10:39 PM   #1275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whaleman View Post
Not easy, but you can cut the LEDs so that half the LED's connector is on the board and the other half on the LED itself and solder a wire in between them like an extension. You must mark the polarity as it can not be reversed. Or you may find it easier to just remove the LED from the board and solder a wire between it and the LED. Either way, you will need some skill to do this and keep the same polarity.

No grounding is not needed and you can not tie both speaker grounds together.
Leave board LEDs as they are, and put another ones it's not an option, right? My soldering skill is not 100% clean and I'm just afraid of cut them

Do you know how many volts LEDs are?
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Old 12th January 2011, 06:25 AM   #1276
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I have the v2 TK2050 running on batteries and it sounds superb - only mod so far is MK input caps. Using it with the pot still in place but planning on removing the pot and using an LDR attenuator (LighterNote). Has anyone done this - what input impedance should be selected (does this matter) - any probs to look out for ?- any expert advice welcome
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Old 12th January 2011, 09:54 AM   #1277
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I have a CDA 254 power amp from Class D, and bought an T1 hifimediy amp(80W) with Alps pod, also

I want to try something different configurations, such that

1. T1=Phono Pre; CDA258= amp I have a Grado Gold 1 MM cardridge

output level of T1 can be set within the CDA input margin level, just using volume pod of T1(opinion?)

2. T1=Pre; CDA 254=power amp

By using a pair of pod(blue ones) near the volume pod, voltage output of T1 can be decreased limit of the CDA input level(opinion?)

3. T1=amp1 CDA=amp2

I have a 3-way speaker T1 for mids+tweeters ; CDA for woofers

I have 4 switching power supply unit for T1, (each of ...24V 1.25A 30W)
Criticism Welcome

Last edited by darkfury; 12th January 2011 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 12th January 2011, 11:04 AM   #1278
Bernie7 is offline Bernie7  Singapore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillbear View Post
I have the v2 TK2050 running on batteries and it sounds superb - only mod so far is MK input caps. Using it with the pot still in place but planning on removing the pot and using an LDR attenuator (LighterNote). Has anyone done this - what input impedance should be selected (does this matter) - any probs to look out for ?- any expert advice welcome
I am using a Lighter Note passive preamp with T3 and a great pairing they are too

Without the pot, T2's input impedance should be similar to T3, ie 20K which should work well with LDRs if you tune the shunt resistance to be on the low side. Keep it below 2K at your highest listening volume. This should avoid impedance mismatch. When tuning, avoid the LDRs dipping below 40R at all times or risk overheating/damaging them.

With 88dB speakers, max listening level for me happens with the series LDRs around 4K and shunt at 1.6K.

Remember to switch on the Lighter Note before your amp or there will be some hum. This is because with the LDRs off, the amp's signal earth is disconnected and this is not a fault.

You're in for a treat

Last edited by Bernie7; 12th January 2011 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 14th January 2011, 09:08 PM   #1279
cOz is offline cOz  United States
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Will this Trafo work with T4?

1 KVA
Primaries: 115/230V 50/60Hz
Secondaries: 0-16V 1A, 13V-0-13V 1A, x2 40V 12A

It is just sitting around right now and I would like to put it to use.

Kind Regards,
Robert
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Old 14th January 2011, 09:21 PM   #1280
udailey is offline udailey  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cOz View Post
Will this Trafo work with T4?


1 KVA
Primaries: 115/230V 50/60Hz
Secondaries: 0-16V 1A, 13V-0-13V 1A, x2 40V 12A

It is just sitting around right now and I would like to put it to use.

Kind Regards,
Robert
fellow Houstonian, that transformer won't work with most amps.
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