Arjen's helder TA2020 MKiii went fault :(

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from TA2020 datasheet:

O v e r - c u r r e n t P r o t e c t i o n
An over-current fault occurs if more than approximately 7 amps of current flows from any of the amplifier output pins. This can occur if the speaker wires are shorted together or if one side of the speaker is shorted to ground. An over-current fault sets an internal latch that can only be cleared if the MUTE pin is toggled or if the part is powered down. Alternately, if the MUTE pin is connected to the FAULT pin, the HIGH output of the FAULT pin will toggle the MUTE pin and automatically reset the fault condition.

Yea, i know it can be solved, but i can't even understand the procedures and steps :(
 
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I purchased 4 of these modules and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

How I have it hooked up is 12V car battery going into the DC input. Am getting a red light with 2 out of 2 of the units I have hooked up so far.

Does anyone know what the red light means? and is there any form of instructions on how to properly wire these modules up? I thought it was quite self explanitory but I guess not for myself! Do the voltage trim pots need to be adjusted at all?

I sent Arjen/Stacy an email already but have not got a reply.

Thanks in advance all!
 
@tuyen: if you have only one light turning on, then it probably means you put the red LED in the power on thingy. one LED is white, one is red (or for mine, that's what happened). if it stays on constantly, but still plays perfectly, then there is nothing wrong.

it's nigh-impossible to tell which LED is red, and which is white, until you run power through them.

i would venture a guess that when you when you turn it off that the white light flashes briefly. swap the LEDs.
 
you might need to post a pic of your wiring job. mine fired up proper right out of the box once I connected everything. I'm also using the switchmode powersupply, which I doubt is the issue, but, ya never know. (interesting sidenote, you can also use a computer power supply, but I wouldn't do that unless you exactly know what you doing)

one thing I did when I got the amp was poke at the inductors and make sure they weren't touching the heatsink or each other. it probably wasn't necessary, but it was one of those "it just looks better" things.

also examine the board for any failed solder attempts.

something else that I wonder about. you specifically mentioned the DC input. do you mean the plug input, or the green crimp block input?
 
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