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Old 15th May 2013, 11:06 AM   #111
Trileru is offline Trileru  Romania
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Originally Posted by rhing View Post
Very nice work. which WIMA caps did you use (e.g., MKP, MKS, MKT)? What is the lead spacing on those caps (5mm, 10mm)? If you have the WIMA or Mouser part numbers, that would be best.

Many thanks,

Rich
Thank you!
You'd have to wait a bit so I can trace that info in my emails but I will try to put the serial numbers of the wima caps. The resistors were overkill in my opinion but I had to do it The ones that were inside were surprisingly accurate on later measurement. Also I think that I will try to replace some copper traces with actual wire at least for the PS rail. Another mod would be to replace the dc offset pots with a good resistor after you make the dc offset adjustment. Just measure the pot for resistance and get the closest value or use two parallel resistors to get the closest value so the dc offset stays the same while using a better resistor than the pot. I don't know how critical that is to the sound but as many say, the difference between these T-amps is not the topology but the quality of components. One cannot use a different or better yet, much different topology as they are bound by the manufacturer schematic recommendation for this chip. So the actual differences between the cheapest and most expensive ta2020 amplifier are in the way they are integrated. As component quality and placement on board, pcb quality etc.
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Old 16th May 2013, 06:00 AM   #112
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Thanks Trileru. I'm patient to wait for details of the WIMA MKS output caps. I just received my S.M.S.L. SA-S1 TA2020 amp and power supply from the S.M.S.L. store on the auction site. I have to say I am very impressed with this amp right out of the box. To my ears, it sounds slightly better than the Helder TA2020 MkIII as it has a smoother presentation and a lower noise floor. The construction is solid like your Muse TA2020 T-amp. I removed the top cover and everything was in there as advertised including the ERO MKT1813 input caps, the Nichicon and Rubycon power supply caps and the air core Copper inductors. I'm going to give this amp more time to settle in, but I am pleased with it so far. As I get the temptation to upgrade parts, I just might stick WIMA MKS caps in the output filter like you did.
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Old 16th May 2013, 03:26 PM   #113
rjsaenz is offline rjsaenz  United States
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I really like the topping tp21 which uses the ta2021. The ta2021 has a little more kick than the original ta2020. The topping uses some good components has a better low end and is not as harsh on the high end as my original sonic impact 5066 was. I did not have to mod it to get the sound that I liked. Run it with 14v instead of 12v and it has a very noticeable difference in power output. I am using it in a backpack with fostex fe126en speakers and it can get really loud and stay clean. I am not familiar with the mkII and mkIII I can only compare it with the original non modified sonic impact 5066.

Robert
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Old 19th May 2013, 09:56 PM   #114
Trileru is offline Trileru  Romania
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Originally Posted by rhing View Post
Thanks Trileru. I'm patient to wait for details of the WIMA MKS output caps. I just received my S.M.S.L. SA-S1 TA2020 amp and power supply from the S.M.S.L. store on the auction site. I have to say I am very impressed with this amp right out of the box. To my ears, it sounds slightly better than the Helder TA2020 MkIII as it has a smoother presentation and a lower noise floor. The construction is solid like your Muse TA2020 T-amp. I removed the top cover and everything was in there as advertised including the ERO MKT1813 input caps, the Nichicon and Rubycon power supply caps and the air core Copper inductors. I'm going to give this amp more time to settle in, but I am pleased with it so far. As I get the temptation to upgrade parts, I just might stick WIMA MKS caps in the output filter like you did.
Panasonic EEUFM1C222 x 2 for power supply
Vishay MKP1837310161G - 0.01uF/160V I used 8 of these to bypass input/output/power caps but I don't see it as "a must". I just did it as I had some laying around.
Wima MKP4F032203G00 or MKP4F032204B - output caps - there are two versions of Wima MKP4 0.22uF/250V. I used the slimmest ones (15mm pins) so I could fit them on the back of the PCB. The thicker ones (10mm pins) may fit on the up side of the PCB but I didn't try it.
Wima MKS2F032201H00 - 0.22uF/250V with 5mm lead spacing.
Wima MKS2D041001K00 - 1uF/100V. There were 2 or 3 I can't remember.
Wima MKP2F031001F00 - 0.1uF/250V
I also used Wima MKP of FKP for Cz (zobel) but I can't remember exactly. Best to get the amp and check all caps inside. As I remember input/output has bypass originally but I wouldn't trust any cap inside the amp if you look for good sound.
You can search the MKS MKP and FKP pdf files so you can check what caps fit. I only used Wima as they are available for me and proved themselves to be at least decent. If I had the space inside the amp maybe I may have used something else but these sound very good for me.

I would get some other power caps (as in more capacitance) but I don't know if they fit and have the low esr specs on FM series. They are 2200uF/16V with 12.5mm diameter and 25mm length. I'd love a couple of 4700uF that fit in the same space Any ideas?

Hope you'll enjoy your t-amp, they sound great!
(as a side note I read that input/output/power caps and inductors make the most difference in sound for these t-amps. I didn't have the chance to test them individually as I replaced them all at the same time almost)
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Old 21st May 2013, 04:49 AM   #115
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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Thanks. My speakers are 8 ohm Klipsch Forte II's and I wonder if I should change the Co and Cz values to 0.22uF as suggested in the Tripath TA2020 suggested circuit. Supposedly 0.47uF is recommended for 4 ohm speakers.

I noticed that you used Mundorf Mcap 2.2uF MKP caps on the inputs. Did you notice any improvements over the stock MKT caps in your Muse amp? If I go with metallized Polypropylene caps, these are the only ones that would fit inside my SMSL's tiny enclosure. The ERO MKT1813 caps in my amp are decent, but I prefer MKP-type caps for a bit more midrange warmth and a little less glaze in the treble.
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Old 21st May 2013, 10:10 AM   #116
Trileru is offline Trileru  Romania
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I also have 8 ohm speakers and I replaced Co to 0.22. I guess that it's best to calculate the zobel for your own speakers. I found many online calculators with different values but one of them suggested 0.57uF with 10 ohm. So it'd be more appropriate for me to use Cz of 0.47uF than 0.22uf.

The Mundorf were a huge upgrade for sure. I don't know if I remember correctly but I think I found 0.22uF instead of 2.2uf there And they were an unknown brand. I might also try Wima MKP10 in that place, I first have to see if they fit.
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Old 22nd May 2013, 05:07 AM   #117
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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I think I'll go with the Mundorf input caps for starters and go from there to trying the WIMA caps on the output filter.

2013-05-17 11.26.26.jpg
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Last edited by rhing; 22nd May 2013 at 05:12 AM.
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Old 6th June 2013, 11:21 PM   #118
a3aan92 is offline a3aan92  Belgium
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Hi, I got a small question: which one would you prefer if you had to choose between the SMSL TA 2020 (SA-36A or SA-S1?) and the Indeed TA 2020? Im not planning to upgrade it and I know the quality is kinda similar but wanted to ask it though. ^^
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Old 7th June 2013, 02:08 AM   #119
rhing is offline rhing  United States
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It almost looks like Indeed and SMSL amps are made by the same manufacturer. It will basically come down to features and your personal preference for certain components like input caps, power supply caps, connectors, air core versus metal core inductors.
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Old 7th June 2013, 09:33 AM   #120
a3aan92 is offline a3aan92  Belgium
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Lol indeed, I didn't even notice that yet... If you compare them, they use 80% the same components and the board structure is very similar. Maybe it's a Chinese family who makes both the SMSL and the Indeed?
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