Quick question (I hope):
I'm new to this and I'm thinking of building a bi- or tri-amped two- or three-way speaker.
Now, I've seen the class D amps in this section and it seems like a great value. I'm a bit unlcear though as to the main differences between let's say a Hypex amp and the way cheaper ones. I'm assuming the differences are quality, energy efficiency and perhaps longevity. But I simply don't know.
What I'm wondering is if building a separate amp per driver allows me to use the cheaper amps and still get the same quality as a more expensive one. It seems to me that many people praise bi-/tri-amped speakers so much that it should be a trade-off that's worth it to "step down" to a cheaper amp (assuming of course that one can't afford several of the more expensive kinds... which I can't).
Is my thinking right on this one or am I a complete moron (trick question, I know I'm a moron.... but is the thinking correct)?
I'm new to this and I'm thinking of building a bi- or tri-amped two- or three-way speaker.
Now, I've seen the class D amps in this section and it seems like a great value. I'm a bit unlcear though as to the main differences between let's say a Hypex amp and the way cheaper ones. I'm assuming the differences are quality, energy efficiency and perhaps longevity. But I simply don't know.
What I'm wondering is if building a separate amp per driver allows me to use the cheaper amps and still get the same quality as a more expensive one. It seems to me that many people praise bi-/tri-amped speakers so much that it should be a trade-off that's worth it to "step down" to a cheaper amp (assuming of course that one can't afford several of the more expensive kinds... which I can't).
Is my thinking right on this one or am I a complete moron (trick question, I know I'm a moron.... but is the thinking correct)?
Low cost does not necessarily equal low quality. Many people think the Tripath based amps are as good or better than the Hypex. In any case, both are superb.
I'm tri-amping with three of the Sure 2*100watt Tripath TK2050 amps and I couldn't be happier.
All of the Class D amps are worthy of your consideration. While it's true that 3 bad amps do not equal a good amp, none of these amps are bad.
-dr_vega
I'm no expert, but I am sure the popular names have said that bi/tri-amping offsets lack of amp quality to a degree. The term "quality" will mean different things to different people here. If you have high sensitivity speakers then you will not need a high power amp to get quality sound and can therefore offset some cost there.
Linkwitz for example points out that passive crossovers require greater power than their active counterparts. I know myself that going from a single 41hz amp6 to dual amp6's driving my two ways was a significant improvement (with a PLLXO and BSC).
If you are new to crossovers like myself then a serious advantage is the easier and potentially much cheaper route that active crossovers can be. Personally I do not want to go back to messing with inductors and the like after experiencing a first try PLLXO with my cheap class d amps.
Linkwitz for example points out that passive crossovers require greater power than their active counterparts. I know myself that going from a single 41hz amp6 to dual amp6's driving my two ways was a significant improvement (with a PLLXO and BSC).
If you are new to crossovers like myself then a serious advantage is the easier and potentially much cheaper route that active crossovers can be. Personally I do not want to go back to messing with inductors and the like after experiencing a first try PLLXO with my cheap class d amps.
Do you mean to adjust the levels of the different sections, Rick?
I would hope you are still using a crossover!
I guess you are right! Actual set up is full range bookshelf speakers driven with Sure 2024 and ancient 30 Watt/channel reciever with normal controls driving 3 ways with 12" woofer. Both sets of speakers still have their passive cross overs. What I did do was relegate my Akai graphic equalizer <active crossover> to unplugged. I don't touch my tone controls anymore.
The big speakers didn't sound right until hearing loss levels of volume and the bookshelf speakers lacked bass. No amount of fiddling with the graphic equalizer or tone controls would get it right. Only takes a second to adjust the relative volume levels. The sum of the two sets is greater then the individuals.
I will probably be picking up some speakers next week and I will experiment a bit with them. I am thinking different boxes for woofer and full range with different amps driving them and sticking to adjusting volume levels to adjust bass and mid-high. I am becoming a convert to the 'fewer things between you and the music, the better."
Rick
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