Want to build a Class D monoblock Car amp

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Well, it is pretty much simple from the title.

I would like to build a monoblock car amp that would output about 1000-1100 watts rms at 1 or 4 ohms. Is this possible and would I get started?

I really love doing DIY projects, and I figure why not an amp? I am savy with electronics, soldering and all that but do not have a lot of experience in complex circuitry such as an auto amp.

are there any kits or things like this because i have searched for days without any luck. I am willing to spend up to $200. or should i just buy a commercial amp? the thing is it is much more cost effective to build it myself and i love the learning experience.

any suggestions? thanks
 
there are some kits, but I not sure that any 1R stabil, 2 and 4 is out there
making it yourself...will take you so much time you don't want, its very hard to make something work right at that power and load impedance, not for beginers

And price could be an issue here too, am not sure if it is not better to buy one already made for this

for kits, look 41Hz.com or similar
 
I suggest just buying an amp.

The power supply for an ampler in that power range needs to be very robust and will be difficult if not impossible for an inexperienced person to build.

$200 can get you a ridiculously powerful amp these days, just look around and try to stay away from local rip-off shops.

Here are good examples of what $200 can get you (even though they are refurbs).......

http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-BXi160...iers?hash=item2ea68b8d76&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/US-AMPS-XT4000D...iers?hash=item518c22c2a0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
 
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actually, i was looking at this amp kit from 41hz

http://www.41hz.com/shop/item.asp?catid=16&itemid=42

how many watts would this give me? it says it supplys at least 2x30A (outputs i guess)? meaning 60 A at 12v = 720w max? right?

well obviously it will distort at peak levels but i could use 2 of em in tandem, 1 for each 500w rms sub?

would this work? it just does not say what the input and output voltages are.
 
I would you AMP2 or AMP7
Amp2 is 2x 450w into 4R @ +/-60v
Amp7 is 2x 900w into 2R @ +/-60v

Both are GREAT, amp7 is better it also has 3oz CU pcb!

AMP2
T-amp_amp2_6.jpg


AMP7

Amp7_1.jpg
 
actually, i was looking at this amp kit from 41hz

http://www.41hz.com/shop/item.asp?catid=16&itemid=42

how many watts would this give me? it says it supplys at least 2x30A (outputs i guess)? meaning 60 A at 12v = 720w max? right?

well obviously it will distort at peak levels but i could use 2 of em in tandem, 1 for each 500w rms sub?

would this work? it just does not say what the input and output voltages are.

That is just half of what a car amp is.

Where will you get a switching power supply to power this amp kit? How will you build the case/heatsink?
 
well i would need a gain control, remote if possible, mosfet power supply, maybe some crossovers/filters, i can make the case/heatsink out of aluminum from my old amp, actually i can use old cadence amp's case (and maybe even power supply?) for this build, here is what my old amp looks like (nice solid alum (alloy?) heatsinks)

http://www.lvg.lt/manager/image/Cadence car/AMPf/txa1000d.jpg

ill post some internal shots tomorrow morning. maybe i can use the add-ons like the crossovers/filters and whatnots from my old amp and integrate it with the amp7 kit?

btw the amp 7 kit is 900w x2 (2 channels right?) would it be stable at 4ohms and how many watts would it be at 4 ohms?

thx guys
 
i was looking at the amp7 kit description and it says now they offer it with a PS so that would take care of that.

I really would like to start a project like this, so I would like to know exactly what I would need besides the kit to get this to work with 2 500w rms subs at either 1R or 4R side by side in a sealed box. the configurations for these subs allow me only to set it at 1R or 4R.

I will post pics of my older amp to show you guys what the case looks like and if that case can be used to build this kit in.

I would also need a remote gain control, rca inputs, a possible subsonic filter, and also a crossover filter.

thank you to all that have helped me out so far.
 
its okay, i dont give up easy especially on things like this. i am very eager to learn. i just need some help getting in the right direction.

i know there are more things involved than the way i posted and made it look like it is more simple than it is.

so i would basically need the kit w/PS, transformer to convert my 13.4V (car battery) source to a higher voltage for the the kit so as to produce more VA for the subs, correct?
and it states that i need another smaller PS for the housekeeping components, i believe one independent 5V rail and another 10V rail. now i am not sure if i can use the stock PS from the kit to achieve this or would i need a small compact independant PS for this.

it is after this point i am not exactly certain what else is needed to make this thing working. I have been searching other threads and post to figure out the basics of it all but its all jumbled. i cant connect the dots so to speak.

if you can guide me in the right direction, i would appreciate it. thank you.
 
The "onboard PS" with the kit is nothing more than a bridge rectifier and smoothing caps. This is meant to be feed by a mains AC transformer. You can't hook up a transformer to a DC power source, they only work with AC.

That is a far cry from being a DC-DC converter capable of boosting the cars DC power supply.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

There is a lot of good info about SMPS for car audio in this thread......

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31614
 
got it. i was reading up on the chip amp beginners guide and found all that out within 15min. i understand now transformer are for ac ONLY.

so for my situation i would not need a tranny or even a rectifier, just a DC-DC converter (voltage converter). how do i figure out how much output voltage is needed from the converter to get my desired (at least) 2x500w rms channels. because the amp7 kit can handle up to +-70V input.

i will read up on the voltage converter processes, i am sure i will be able to figure that out.

than the converted DC output goes to the chip amp, correct?
 
ok, anonymous you win. maybe i am getting in a little over my head i still dont want to quit on this.

maybe to get some more experience with these amplifier designs, i should try and fix my old amp to see why it is not working. how does that sound?

well here goes:

i have a cadence txa-1000d 1000w @ 1ohm amp (i believe 700w @ 4R).
the problem is that the amp will just not turn on at all. sometimes the green light comes on indicating that the amp is on. sometimes it does not turn on. in any case, there is no power output to the subs. i have not measured anything because my multimeter can only measure up to 10 A so it would fry it basically.

i have posted some pictures of the amp internals, and from what I can see there is nothing burnt, browned, melted, discolored, no broken transistor legs, nothing seems out of the ordinary basically, but then again im no expert. so maybe these pictures can give you a hint as to what is going on.

what things should I look for and how do i go about testing this amp? i know it is hard without a schematic, but i will try and look for one.

thank you.
 

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ok, anonymous you win. maybe i am getting in a little over my head i still dont want to quit on this.

Well, that's not what I was after. I was just trying to be the voice of reason, as I've been where you are and wasted a lot of money and destroyed a lot of good components.

You should start a new thread in the car audio forum for your amp. There is a very nice and knowledgeable fellow there named Perry Babbin. If he can't help you fix the amp, no one can.
 
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