Sure Electronics New Tripath Board 4*100W class-D Amplifier Board - Page 9

DIGORA · 3rd December 2009, 07:28 PM

Hello

Can you tell me Why the 4*100 board can not supply with 36Vmax like the 2*100 board ?

Just for the HEAT ?

curveship · 8th December 2009, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by curveship

I just got one of the updated boards. Not happy. The changes to my board were clearly made after the original fabrication and done very sloppily. Flux all over, sloppy solder joints, two cold joints, one lead bent over until it touches the one next to it. Yuck ...

Worse, though, is that the capacitors used to replace R12,13,16,17 are tiny little monolithic ceramics.

Not the kind of thing you want to see in the signal path. They're under the daughterboard, so there's no space for anything bigger and no way to get to them to replace. Ugh

Just an update to say that Sure refunded my money on the board. The sloppy modifications had left a blob of solder on one RCA jack that made it impossible to attach a cable, so only 3 channels were usable. It looks like the original manufacture of the board was solid, and the customer service was good, but the modifications were/are a problem.

aquapiranha · 8th December 2009, 09:20 PM

My replacement modified board has arrived. a good sign is that there was no smoke on power up! I hope to be able to test it properly in the next couple of days. Sure have been very good, despite the issues. If I have no joy with this then I do not know what to do next.

sendler · 8th December 2009, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aquapiranha

My replacement modified board has arrived. a good sign is that there was no smoke on power up! I hope to be able to test it properly in the next couple of days. Sure have been very good, despite the issues. If I have no joy with this then I do not know what to do next.

If that one blows up you may want to go with the Sure 2X100. More room to mod and we have had no trouble with those since they went to the fan cooling.
Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

aquapiranha · 09:36 PM

Hi Scott. I would have gone for the other boards but for cost. I was undecided for some time but went with the four channel when it came out. I may well ask sure to send me two, and refund this in part payment if it doesn't work when I test it properly this week. Sure have been great, even if it I have been waiting a while. I would not hesitate to use them again just on customer service alone.

I have always liked the Tripath sound, having enjoyed a Trends for a while (why I ever sold it I will never know..) but I also like the chip amps I have heard too.

Steve

craigwn · 9th December 2009, 09:53 PM

I have been following this Forum for a while now, and finally took the jump and went from a topping tp-10 mk3 to this 4x100w board, with the intention of using it in a bi-amp setup CH1+CH2 for the Left CH3+CH4 for the right.

I have hooked it up to a 24v 14.6A power supply via the terminal blocks and have given it a quick test, all appears to be working correctly and i could hear my source. however my Speaker cone's (kef q3) were visibly resting forwards of their usual resting point (both with a source connected and disconnected). After testing with a multimeter i found these to be the DC offsets (no source connected):

CH1 333mv
CH2 288mv
CH3 -482mv
CH4 136mv

I then tried to adjust these offsets using the trimmers under the heat sink, however the figures were only getting higher (worse).

So my question really is, could i have done (or not done something) something to make these figures be so high? as sure suggest these figures should be under 10mv. Can something be done to correct this offset without sending the board back? my soldering skills are at best - awful!

Many Thanks,

Craig

audio1st · 10th December 2009, 04:49 PM

Hello Craig,

The resistors, R6, R7, R8 and R9 need to be removed. I think these will be to hard for you to get to (between main board and daughter board), and should have been removed by Sure.
Make sure you don't short the input terminals.
I would send it back..

craigwn · 10th December 2009, 11:38 PM

Hi audio1st,

Thank you for your quick reply!

I have found R6 and R7 (under the heat sink) I guess R8 and R9 are under the daughter board, however R6 and R7 just look like solder is bridging the connections, so I presume that the resistors have been removed, unless I am looking at the wrong resistors?

Is there anything else I could have done incorrectly? I have adjusted the trim pots which has improved the Offset slightly but only by a few mv at best.

Many Thanks,

Craig

audio1st · 11th December 2009, 09:17 AM

Hi Craig.
R6-R9 are the hardest resistors to get to (nearest to daughter board).
The picture shows the original board that Sure added the daughter board to, there is no need for any of the 12 resistors, just the caps.

craigwn · 12th December 2009, 02:46 PM

After looking where you have indicated on the picture i can see that R6-R9 have indeed been removed, so do i also need to remove R10-R17 to correct the offset?

8th December 2009, 09:31 PM	#85
aquapiranha diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	Hi Scott. I would have gone for the other boards but for cost. I was undecided for some time but went with the four channel when it came out. I may well ask sure to send me two, and refund this in part payment if it doesn't work when I test it properly this week. Sure have been great, even if it I have been waiting a while. I would not hesitate to use them again just on customer service alone. I have always liked the Tripath sound, having enjoyed a Trends for a while (why I ever sold it I will never know..) but I also like the chip amps I have heard too. Steve Last edited by aquapiranha; 8th December 2009 at 09:36 PM.

9th December 2009, 09:53 PM	#86
craigwn diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: London	DC Offset issues I have been following this Forum for a while now, and finally took the jump and went from a topping tp-10 mk3 to this 4x100w board, with the intention of using it in a bi-amp setup CH1+CH2 for the Left CH3+CH4 for the right. I have hooked it up to a 24v 14.6A power supply via the terminal blocks and have given it a quick test, all appears to be working correctly and i could hear my source. however my Speaker cone's (kef q3) were visibly resting forwards of their usual resting point (both with a source connected and disconnected). After testing with a multimeter i found these to be the DC offsets (no source connected): CH1 333mv CH2 288mv CH3 -482mv CH4 136mv I then tried to adjust these offsets using the trimmers under the heat sink, however the figures were only getting higher (worse). So my question really is, could i have done (or not done something) something to make these figures be so high? as sure suggest these figures should be under 10mv. Can something be done to correct this offset without sending the board back? my soldering skills are at best - awful! Many Thanks, Craig

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3rd December 2009, 07:28 PM	#81
DIGORA diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	Hello Can you tell me Why the 4100 board can not supply with 36Vmax like the 2100 board ? Just for the HEAT ?

8th December 2009, 09:20 PM	#83
aquapiranha diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	My replacement modified board has arrived. a good sign is that there was no smoke on power up! I hope to be able to test it properly in the next couple of days. Sure have been very good, despite the issues. If I have no joy with this then I do not know what to do next.

10th December 2009, 04:49 PM	#87
audio1st diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Foxton, CAMBS..	Hello Craig, The resistors, R6, R7, R8 and R9 need to be removed. I think these will be to hard for you to get to (between main board and daughter board), and should have been removed by Sure. Make sure you don't short the input terminals. I would send it back..

10th December 2009, 11:38 PM	#88
craigwn diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: London	Hi audio1st, Thank you for your quick reply! I have found R6 and R7 (under the heat sink) I guess R8 and R9 are under the daughter board, however R6 and R7 just look like solder is bridging the connections, so I presume that the resistors have been removed, unless I am looking at the wrong resistors? Is there anything else I could have done incorrectly? I have adjusted the trim pots which has improved the Offset slightly but only by a few mv at best. Many Thanks, Craig

12th December 2009, 02:46 PM	#90
craigwn diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: London	After looking where you have indicated on the picture i can see that R6-R9 have indeed been removed, so do i also need to remove R10-R17 to correct the offset?

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