Hello there!
As my first every DIY audio project, I'm building some Munny speakers (should be crazy easy, link ).
I thought to spice things up I'd build it a matching T-Amp.
BUT...I've never really soldered....
So, how hard can this stuff be, and you have to start somewhere, right? The only kit I've found online is the one from 41Hz, but I hear that it can be somewhat challenging.
Do you think this would be a suitable project for me, someone who has never soldered before and can't really read an electric schematic?
THANKS in advance!
As my first every DIY audio project, I'm building some Munny speakers (should be crazy easy, link ).
I thought to spice things up I'd build it a matching T-Amp.
BUT...I've never really soldered....
So, how hard can this stuff be, and you have to start somewhere, right? The only kit I've found online is the one from 41Hz, but I hear that it can be somewhat challenging.
Do you think this would be a suitable project for me, someone who has never soldered before and can't really read an electric schematic?
THANKS in advance!
about as simple as can get...
look at this kit from 41 Hz. only real challenge is soldering the chip to the board. Everything else is dirt simple. I made one (I reviewed it for Affordable$$Audio). All you have to do is go find a surplus 12V 3A laptop computer switching mode power supply, often available for little money online.
look at this kit from 41 Hz. only real challenge is soldering the chip to the board. Everything else is dirt simple. I made one (I reviewed it for Affordable$$Audio). All you have to do is go find a surplus 12V 3A laptop computer switching mode power supply, often available for little money online.
ledhed....
Yes , I linked to the amp6Basic.
First off, a DMM is not required to build this kit. It is nice to have though. I bought an inexpensive Greenlee one, like this , years ago. As per usual, the leads fail , but that is a design flaw of virtually all DMMs and new leads are cheap!
Besides a "solder sucker (whether a "bulb" type or the spring loaded type) buy some copper wick . It can often help get very small amounts of solder off a board (and quite large amounts too). Once you use a portion, just cut it off and pitch it out (wherever you need to based on local laws, etc).
As far as a soldering iron (not gun, but a "pencil" type) goes, get the best one you can afford. Decent ones are as cheap as $20-$30, and upto $150 or so. Something in the 35-50 watt range is usually hot enough (too little heat can help you destroy circuit boards--I know I've done it '
' ).
Also do a little research and practice a bit before making the kit ...
Reasonable deals for everything you would need can be had at Parts Express .
hope that helps. You will also need to decide on what to house it in...
Yes , I linked to the amp6Basic.
First off, a DMM is not required to build this kit. It is nice to have though. I bought an inexpensive Greenlee one, like this , years ago. As per usual, the leads fail , but that is a design flaw of virtually all DMMs and new leads are cheap!
Besides a "solder sucker (whether a "bulb" type or the spring loaded type) buy some copper wick . It can often help get very small amounts of solder off a board (and quite large amounts too). Once you use a portion, just cut it off and pitch it out (wherever you need to based on local laws, etc).
As far as a soldering iron (not gun, but a "pencil" type) goes, get the best one you can afford. Decent ones are as cheap as $20-$30, and upto $150 or so. Something in the 35-50 watt range is usually hot enough (too little heat can help you destroy circuit boards--I know I've done it '
' ).Also do a little research and practice a bit before making the kit ...
Reasonable deals for everything you would need can be had at Parts Express .
hope that helps. You will also need to decide on what to house it in...
Re: ledhed....
Interesting fact, but it makes sense after thinking about it - thermal resistance of a material determines tempereature difference between two points with a specific amount of power being applied at one end,
since the greater the power the greater the temperature difference between the two ends, a more powerful iron will heat the solder to melting temperature more quickly while resulting in a lower temperature at the other end, compared to a less powerful iron which will take more time and heat everything up.
But this is under the condition that the solder is heated until melting point only. If the two irons stay on the component for the same amount of time, common-sense can tell us which will become hotter and kill components more easily.
Thx for the warning btw.
Nanook said:(too little heat can help you destroy circuit boards--I know I've done it '
Interesting fact, but it makes sense after thinking about it - thermal resistance of a material determines tempereature difference between two points with a specific amount of power being applied at one end,
since the greater the power the greater the temperature difference between the two ends, a more powerful iron will heat the solder to melting temperature more quickly while resulting in a lower temperature at the other end, compared to a less powerful iron which will take more time and heat everything up.
But this is under the condition that the solder is heated until melting point only. If the two irons stay on the component for the same amount of time, common-sense can tell us which will become hotter and kill components more easily.
Thx for the warning btw.
Thanks so much for the help folks.
On another post of mine in this forum (under the loudspeaker section, having to do with building the actually speakers), someone recommended a gainclone kit instead, the LM1875 from chipamp.com.
Now, I have a very basic understanding of class-d versus class-a (ie. variable power based on a sawtooth wave versus constant power), but I have no idea what a gainclone is.
Anyone care to give me their $0.02 on this suggestion? Thanks!
On another post of mine in this forum (under the loudspeaker section, having to do with building the actually speakers), someone recommended a gainclone kit instead, the LM1875 from chipamp.com.
Now, I have a very basic understanding of class-d versus class-a (ie. variable power based on a sawtooth wave versus constant power), but I have no idea what a gainclone is.
Anyone care to give me their $0.02 on this suggestion? Thanks!
A gainclone is
an amp based on the 47Labs gaincard amplifier a high end chip amp, from Japan. Basically a minimalist (some have as few as 9 components in the signal path if I remember correctly) chip based amplifier. The chip is a National Semiconductor "LM" series chip. Have a look here for a better explanation.
an amp based on the 47Labs gaincard amplifier a high end chip amp, from Japan. Basically a minimalist (some have as few as 9 components in the signal path if I remember correctly) chip based amplifier. The chip is a National Semiconductor "LM" series chip. Have a look here for a better explanation.
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