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Old 29th July 2009, 12:52 AM   #21
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Saga continues: soldered following the picture below per audio1st suggestion after desoldering my old wire.

Ch2 (which had been the dead) works for about 20sec playing music and shuts down, the tripath chip gets too hot. For some reason Ch1 which had been working fine does not work at all.

I am beginning to think it is my shoddy soldering some where.

gychang
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Old 29th July 2009, 07:45 AM   #22
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Sorry to hear that Greg..

Your first mod may have damaged the chip, or it may just be a poor quality chip (fake) ?
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Old 29th July 2009, 11:32 AM   #23
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by audio1st
Sorry to hear that Greg..

Your first mod may have damaged the chip, or it may just be a poor quality chip (fake) ?
thanks for helping me out. I vote for my damage since it worked fine before my attempt at mod.

I will try to mod again however, thanks much.

gychang
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Old 9th August 2009, 03:47 PM   #24
Havoc08 is offline Havoc08  Denmark
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Could the ta2024 be manufactured different places?
The font and shape of the die seems to differ, but so does the TA2024 on the web if you google it?

http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/t-amp_e.html

http://www.fairaudio.de/test/vollver...ta-10.1-2.html

http://www.beavishifi.com/projects/c...24_PCB_800.JPG

????
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Old 9th August 2009, 05:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Havoc08
Could the ta2024 be manufactured different places?
The font and shape of the die seems to differ, but so does the TA2024 on the web if you google it?

http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/t-amp_e.html

http://www.fairaudio.de/test/vollver...ta-10.1-2.html

http://www.beavishifi.com/projects/c...24_PCB_800.JPG

????

I received one of these boards as a gift from Gychang and I have had no trouble with it. I have modded the input and power rails and it behaves just like all the other 2024 boards.
I suppose in someway it is better than the Sure board because you don't have the incorrect DC offset cct to deal with.
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Old 9th August 2009, 05:10 PM   #26
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And this is the input layout if anyone needs it..
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Old 9th August 2009, 05:22 PM   #27
Havoc08 is offline Havoc08  Denmark
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thx. Besides the odd font chamge on the chip it seems like the sure board with the resistor network deactivated?

Or maybe not... I see now that it is not the resistor mod that has been done. What would be in the empty smd solder locations?

Have you observed whether the ohmage and the capacitance rating is correct on this board (as the sure board has 1uF instead of 2,2uF for example)?

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Old 9th August 2009, 05:30 PM   #28
Havoc08 is offline Havoc08  Denmark
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even though they seem to use the same manufacturer of components (100uF caps, coils etc.) there are actually alot of changes to the traces and the board layout, although hard to see beneath the black coating.
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Old 9th August 2009, 08:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Havoc08

Or maybe not... I see now that it is not the resistor mod that has been done. What would be in the empty smd solder locations?

One location is for a smd LED, but this is powered by the chips 5V output and may over heat the chip so they have decided against it?
The other location is to link the fault pin to the mute pin, this option should auto mute under fault conditions but would then need to be powered down to reset after fault.
They have also blacked out the markings on the tantalum caps for some reason?
The output caps are also different values to the Sure board, but to know the exact values would mean lifting them and I haven't done that.. The inductors measured 15uH..
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Old 10th August 2009, 12:16 AM   #30
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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audio1st, would be interested in comparison of sound from Sure to this amp after your mod.

gychang
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