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Old 31st August 2009, 01:01 PM   #411
dr_vega is offline dr_vega  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theZ View Post
it just struck me, can i connect 2 x 8Ohm speakers in parallel per channel on this amp? On my "home" amp i wouldnt hesitate but these amps seem to fry if you look at them the wrong way, and also, theres the contradicting warnings:
The Sure 2*100 can deliver full power at 4 ohms without problems, with up to a 36v power supply. This is according to the Tripath docs. It is also the way I'm running mine (two amps at 34v, one at 36v) without any meltdowns.

However, the heatsink on the Sure is not adequate if you're running at high power, especially into low impedences. I have added a fan to mine. It seems clear that if you are running them hard, you need a bigger heatsink or a fan.

-dr_ vega
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Old 31st August 2009, 01:36 PM   #412
theZ is offline theZ  Norway
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thanks for bringing me some confidence, ive got the new boards with the fan/heatsink combo and running of 24v, so ill give it a try and hope for the best.
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Old 4th September 2009, 09:27 AM   #413
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Some pages ago I wrote about my broken Sure board, the good news is that you can replace the TP2050 with the ST505, the bad news is that only one channel works again now, apparently some outputs of the TC2000 got damaged as well.

Anyone that could supply me a TC2000 or a broken Sure board ?
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Old 4th September 2009, 10:47 AM   #414
sled108 is offline sled108  United States
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Still can't find the 4*100 listed at Sure...Where is it?
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Old 4th September 2009, 12:32 PM   #415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_vega View Post
The Sure 2*100 can deliver full power at 4 ohms without problems, with up to a 36v power supply. This is according to the Tripath docs. It is also the way I'm running mine (two amps at 34v, one at 36v) without any meltdowns.

However, the heatsink on the Sure is not adequate if you're running at high power, especially into low impedences. I have added a fan to mine. It seems clear that if you are running them hard, you need a bigger heatsink or a fan.

-dr_ vega
I just looked at the Sure web site and it looks like they are including a fan with the amp board now. Maybe they have been listening to their customers?
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Old 5th September 2009, 08:31 AM   #416
riktw is offline riktw  Netherlands
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http://www.sureelectronics.net/image...5598879489.jpg
AMAZING
but that fan is small and i think it would make a lot of noise.
my 12cm fan on 5V is dead silent
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Old 6th September 2009, 05:30 PM   #417
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Default Powering the Sure board

Hi, I ordered the board today and have been reading this thread (interesting!) and was wondering what the best way is to power this board. Is using a switchmode power supply for a laptop as good or even better than using a toroid transformer?
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Old 7th September 2009, 12:24 PM   #418
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Originally Posted by SimonKit View Post
Hi, I ordered the board today and have been reading this thread (interesting!) and was wondering what the best way is to power this board. Is using a switchmode power supply for a laptop as good or even better than using a toroid transformer?
i'm not an expert and did not experience by myself with laptop smps,
i can tell you what i read around about this argument..
you can try and SureTK will works, but it isn't an optimal solution,
you need a good smps (avoiding or limiting conducted or radiated RFI ) more output voltage (24-30Vcc) and more current (at least 3-4 A , better 6A or higher)
Something like Meanwell S-145-24 , directly from Sure... ;-)
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Old 7th September 2009, 02:41 PM   #419
sendler is offline sendler  United States
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Default Dayton foil caps are fantastic

Ordered my Sure 2x100 boards today. Will run a pair of them as mono blocs biamping my Usher two ways for comparisons using the +30V from linear supplies I built for my BPA200 3875 amps which are pretty good. Much better than a single 3886. I also have eight channels TDA7250 ( my favorite but lots more work ) and Ucd180 amps (overpriced for active speakers). Just wanted to write to subscribe to the great discussion of mods for these affordable amp modules. I can also vote +1 for the Dayton foil caps for signal coupling. They are so transparent that they make any other poly cap sound like a filter. Parallel 4 to get 2uf. Gets kind of big but are well worth the space. They come in sizes up to .47 and should be excellent in the output filter as well.
.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_vega View Post
Of course Col is right. Tripathís data is not carved in stone. These are all compromises to balance various factors. Tripath tells you what you need and gives you a solution that will work. Itís not the only solution possible. For example, when you read the Tripath info about the output filters on the spec sheets for different Tripath chips, they talk about the same problem, but even Tripath comes up with difference solutions on different datasheets.

The Tripath chips, like all switched amplifiers generate a lot of electrical switching noise, most of it above 100kHz. While this is well above the audible range, it can modulate with other frequencies to make audible distortion. Plus, it just isnít good to send the noise along to speakers sucking up watts and heating your voice coils. So, Tripath recommends a second order filter at around 80kHz.

Weíre lucky with Tripath because their switching frequency, while variable, is usually above 100kHz, which is higher than some of the other class D amps. The higher frequency means we can use a simple second order filter that is cheap and doesnít harm the sound much.

On different datasheets Tripath recommends LC combinations of 10uH/.47uF and 15uH/.22uF. Sure, apparently, used 22uH/.47uH. These give the following filter points:

10uH/.47uF = 73,412.76 Hz
15uH/.22uF = 87,611.99 Hz
22uH/.47uF = 41,148.57 Hz

I replaced the Sure 22uH coils with 10uH, but I have not yet replaced the caps. That means Iím currently running with a filter point of:

10uH/.47uF = 73,412.76 Hz

This is one of Tripath's recommended combinations. But when I replace the caps, Iíll use .33uF instead, which gives me a filter point of:

10uH/.33uF = 87,611.99 Hz

Thatís the same value Iíd get if I had used 15uH/.22uF.

All of these combinations work just fine. Sure may have chosen a lower frequency to filter out a little more noise, at the risk of rolling off the top end of the audio spectrum a little Ė a very little, less than 2dB at 20kHz for 4 ohm speakers and effectively none for 8 ohm speakers. And remember, we're talking about the tweeter here. Even if your tweeter is 4 ohms, chances are your crossover has a resister on the tweeter bringing its effective impedance near 8 ohms, maybe more.

Since Iím using a 4 ohm tweeter without a crossover (I have an active crossover), Iím pushing my filters up a little higher. But only for the psychology of it, since I canít hear anything above 16kHz anyway.

So Colís right: donít get crazy over the output filters. What Sure did works just fine. I didnít replace my coils to move my filter point, I did it to get better quality coils. Upgrading the coils gave me a chance to play with the filter frequency, but that was a fun side effect, not the reason to do it.

-dr_vega
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Old 7th September 2009, 04:39 PM   #420
dr_vega is offline dr_vega  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madqwerty View Post
i'm not an expert and did not experience by myself with laptop smps,
i can tell you what i read around about this argument..
you can try and SureTK will works, but it isn't an optimal solution,
you need a good smps (avoiding or limiting conducted or radiated RFI ) more output voltage (24-30Vcc) and more current (at least 3-4 A , better 6A or higher)
Something like Meanwell S-145-24 , directly from Sure... ;-)
The Meanwells are undoubted a good and cost-effective solution.

I went a different route. I'm using smps bricks (like laptop power supplies), but mine are from HP and Kodak printers. I have an HP 32v 2.3 amp brick for each of my biamped mains and a Kodak 36v 3 amp brick for my subwoofer (dual voice coils). I'm very happy with the results and, being almost invisible, they have a better WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) than the Meanwells.

I glued tiny 12v open frame fans running at 5v directly onto the heat sinks. The heat sinks barely get warm to the touch and the fans are silent.

-dr_vega
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