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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 7th August 2009, 06:24 PM   #351
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Quote:
Originally posted by ElFishi


There is a nice article on output filters on class-D amps on this site.

I found it in another thread also discussing output designs.
Article is written by people from ST, my drawing comes from the datasheet of the STA505 from ST...
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Old 21st August 2009, 05:35 AM   #352
ttan98 is offline ttan98  Australia
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Hi,

Looks like this thread is pretty quiet since the DIYAudio when into maintenance mode over the last few days.

I have a few things to report. This is in reference to the 2*100Watt from Sure electronics module I bought recently.

1. After the item arrived I burned in the unit(unmodified) for a few days by playing music and I hade been listening to music over this period. I powered it from a Laptop smps, 19.6VDC.
The sound quality was not very impressive, even when compared to the chipamp. Very opaque and dull.

2. Then I changed the power supply to battery(4 units,each 12V DC connected in series and parallel) to give me 24V DC. The sound now was much better cleaner and less opaque.
Overall some improvement. I liked to report that I had been using the unit with the battery units for over 10 hours and the voltage dropped marginally from 25.2V to now 24V Dc after more than 10 hours usage. I had a charging circuit in preparation to charge it up once it dropped below 23.5V.

3. Now all the components to modify the circuit had arrived. I changed the following:

a. input caps to Sonic caps, 2.2uF in parallel with 0.1uF, removed the existing caps(1.0uF and 0.1uF) as specified by Audio1st and also the input 22K resistor. More importantly the input suppressor? located underneath the board, this suppressor must be removed for the unit to work properly.

b. removed all the 6 power caps(220uF each) there were very light indeed, replaced them with panasonic 2*1500uF(one in each rail) used by Audiosector.

c. Used a 50k pot from gigaworks similar to the one ordered by Col. It was a SMD resistors connected and make it into a audio log pot.

The bottom line is it sounded like a different amp., very clean and open airy, throws a large sound stage. I own many amps before, inclu. chipamp(LM3886 and 3875) and tubes and solid state. This one sounded very good indeed comparable if not better. If I add up the costs, it will not be over US$100 parts incl. Sure unit, battery, caps and pot. A bargain.

I am listening to it now and enjoying it. Cheers have a good day.
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Old 21st August 2009, 06:09 AM   #353
col is offline col  Australia
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Iv'e something to report as well. I was using a 19v laptop SMPS and thought I was getting good results. I recently found a 24v "universal" laptop SMPS on Ebay and decided I would give it a try. It's made a big difference, more dynamic, plays louder, even the noise floor is lower. I think the 24v "universal" i got is a very cheap SMPS but just having the extra 5 volts makes a big difference.

col.
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Old 21st August 2009, 09:33 AM   #354
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Sure may watch this site?
They have now added a fan on the 5v supply...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg surenewfan.jpg (91.4 KB, 1392 views)

Last edited by audio1st; 21st August 2009 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 21st August 2009, 01:24 PM   #355
swkbkk is offline swkbkk  Thailand
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Good spotting audio1st;

price seems to have gone up a little on their Ebay site.... but then extra 2 dollars for the fan seems to be fair
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Old 21st August 2009, 03:12 PM   #356
ttan98 is offline ttan98  Australia
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My heat sink runs fairly cool, this may due to the fact my speakers is fairly efficient more than 92dB less than 94dB.
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Old 22nd August 2009, 11:31 PM   #357
nrg2009 is offline nrg2009  United States
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Thanks to Audio1st, Cheric and dr. Vega and everyone else on this thread!

I made the mods and used an old PC power supply as case. I'm VERY happy.
Question: The only issue is that it plays very loud (if I turn the pot it plays even louder! ). I'm using a Radioshack 100k stereo pot. The 4 switches are set to low. Would I need to add more resistance?

Update: I added photos to show more of the detail of the input side. It's very loud, but very nice detail with my cheapy sony dvd player. I'm currently using a discman to have better attenuation.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P8160085sm.JPG (104.3 KB, 1325 views)
File Type: jpg P8160086smsm.JPG (89.6 KB, 1260 views)
File Type: jpg P8230004sm.JPG (303.9 KB, 1173 views)
File Type: jpg P8230005.JPG (299.8 KB, 1117 views)

Last edited by nrg2009; 24th August 2009 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Added detail photos
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Old 22nd August 2009, 11:43 PM   #358
cheric is offline cheric  United States
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nrg2009,
The picture of the opened case is not very clear but it seems that your input caps are not properly connected to me.
Another close-up shot...maybe?
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Old 23rd August 2009, 08:57 PM   #359
Nisbeth is offline Nisbeth  Denmark
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Been listening a little more to my amp (pics posted a few pages back).I like what I hear, but I can't say I like the, rather bad, turn-on thump I get in my speakers. Is there any way to cure this?

/U.
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Old 23rd August 2009, 09:25 PM   #360
cheric is offline cheric  United States
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Default Help!

My second TP2050 board is having an issue...
I did the "Audio 1st mod", using the input caps off-board and it is working fine but when I add the extra power caps to the board, via the two screw-in terminals, I would loose one channel. Only one speaker would put out the sound. The other one does not have power. My caps are 6800uf / 50V Elna (even when using just one cap). BTW, at this time, I am using a 13.8Volts / 4Amp P/S as I am waiting for the 24v / 6Amp to be delivered from Ebay.
Would the low voltage have anything to do with it?
Again, if I removed the power caps, unplugged the power for a second, the unit would work fine again. Just no extra power caps.
Any ideas what caused this?
Thanks in advance.

Last edited by cheric; 23rd August 2009 at 09:27 PM.
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