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Old 28th December 2013, 12:29 AM   #2321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apachestar View Post
I remounted the fan with some elastic material between it and the housing. The noise went down a lot, but still it's loud. My old sure PS (which was MeanWeil) and amp did not have the fan come on until the temp hit a certain limit. I'd like to do the again, as I have the amp near a chair and you hear the fans when no music is playing. Any ideas how to have the circuit kick in when the temp hits say 100F?
I know what you mean as I never seem the fan on with my MW power supplies.

You can get two of that passive heatsink or a temperature active fan like this one
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Old 28th December 2013, 12:43 AM   #2322
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The links do not work. I do not know if my old MW ever come on. I might try running this without any fan, and see if the temp overload kicks in. The PS sits in a well ventilated space with the sure amp pushing minimal air via its fan. Then, if its cutting out I could add a temp active fan (ill google those and find one, I'm sure. ). Thanks for the help.
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Old 5th February 2014, 07:57 PM   #2324
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Originally Posted by Virpz View Post
Ok, I am going to ressurect this thread....
...

What I have done with this board ( Ver. AB32186V220 ) :
Awesome, but I have some questions.

Quote:
1- Replaced all electrolytic capacitors with panasonic FM and FC.
OK. Makes sense.

Quote:
2- Replaced inputs caps with 2.2uF mundorf ( keep legs short ) .
Yes, still with you.

Quote:
3- Added 550uF electrolytic to the tc2000 .
OK, I'm lost. Can you please state specifically what you did, and/or show a pic?

Quote:
4- Added a separated board for the output filter;
- Low pass Rifa PHE 426 ( I love these caps ) .47uF and baked air cored Litz inductors of 10uH ( Will replace inductors with wurth 7447709100 ) .
- High pass Rifa 0.56uF and MOX 4.7 Ohms 4W .
Perhaps this would be best for me to do later

Quote:
5- These new boards even have the pads for the snubber caps and resistors, Go for 300/330pF and for the resistor go for 20 Ohms 1/4W
Again, if you could provide precise instructions and/or pics, please?

Quote:
6- Inverted the fan for better air flow.

7- provided a case, alps pot and all the wiring was done in Litz because I had these around and someone said that I could avoid proximity effects by using it.
Nice job!
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Old 14th February 2014, 11:02 AM   #2325
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hello.
I have a muse dt-50 2x50W amplifier that uses the chip TC2000 + TP2050, and one of the two channels fail, only sounds clicking the other works with normally. Would they tell me why this happen? the board is this:
60RFNDXzk3NzI http://museaudio.com/photo/album/usaFeBhNZm_% @. jpg

the board has a pin ISP +5 v GND RXD TXD, someone has to configuration parameters?

Thank you very much!
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Old 15th February 2014, 04:36 PM   #2326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenayo View Post
hello.
I have a muse dt-50 2x50W amplifier that uses the chip TC2000 + TP2050, and one of the two channels
I meant to say one of the two "speaker" channels.

Thanks
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Old 21st April 2014, 08:22 AM   #2327
niamex is offline niamex  Bulgaria
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Hi there,
Unfortunately the version I am planning to get for tweaking seams different from these discussed here. Will you please comment that one - TK2050 50W 50W Class T HiFi Stereo Audio Digital Amplifier Board DC 12V Voltage | eBay
Thanks in advance,
Ignat
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Old 6th August 2014, 02:48 PM   #2328
clm811 is offline clm811  United States
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Default Getting high pitch tone!

I have a Sure model AA-AB32186 board, and while desoldering the input caps,
I accidentally knocked out R1 and R2 (22k). I intended to replace input SMT electrolytics with regular film caps.

These R1 /R2 resistors go from input to ground and appear to set the input impedance of the amp.

Measuring across each RCA jack then, I got about 75k ohms on my ohmmeter.

I hooked up a speaker to the outputs (no input) and the green light came on (good), but when I put a 22k ohm(1/8 watt) resistor across the input to ground (with or without input connected) I get a high pitch tone (oscillation?), and the green light doesn't come on.

I need a schematic for the input circuit of the AA-AB32186, to determine if the 22k shunt resistors go before or after the input caps (can't tell from the pcb traces).

Thanks in advance!

-Chas
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Old 6th August 2014, 05:03 PM   #2329
clm811 is offline clm811  United States
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Default fixed it

It turns out that the cap goes after the shunt resistor, and now the noise is gone.

Still would like the schematic for the Sure model AA-AB32186...
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Old 6th August 2014, 05:17 PM   #2330
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Nice to keep us informed
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QED T260, Thorens TD-318, Marantz CD-43, TK2050, JBL 4313B & MJK's OB: music!
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