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Old 23rd February 2012, 11:34 PM   #2251
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The board shown in the recent posts on this thread appears to be the newer TDA7498 chipset based product. The Sure version in its earliest forms has had some serious stability and distortion issues. However, this board is now being sourced by Parts Express, which means that it is now probably debugged. As for the 'propeller', at least on the TK2050 you really have to abuse the board or push it very hard to get the fan to operate; when it does, you can barely hear it when the board is mounted in a closed plastic enclosure. The TDA 7498 has very different operating characteristics, including slightly better power output, particularly if driven with 36VDC. (You can get a Meanwell 35V power supply from various sources to drive this board, but not from Parts Express.). Sound quality is reported as excellent (not from the Sure product as yet, but from a better design from Hifimediy). I must admit this greatly tweaks my curiosity. For about $40 this might be worthy of experimentation, but this is not now a proven excellent product like the Sure TK2050 products, both of which I have, use, and love dearly.

By the way, a useful workaround for mobile applications is running the power supply using a 110VAC inverter. These used to be expensive, but now a 350W inverter of good quality is about $100. The usual SMPS will filter out inverter noise, at least in theory. I should try this out in my car but have too many projects going and not enough time.
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Old 10th March 2012, 04:50 PM   #2252
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ciao.
ho bisogno di una conferma:
la mia scheda la versione "Model AA-AB32181 "
posso togliere i diodi in ingresso (d4 , d6)?
posso togliere R23 , R39 (il loro lavoro lo fa il potenziometro)?
al posto del parallelo di C18, C19 (C24, C26) metto condensatori da 2.2microfarad di buona qualita'?
grazie mille
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Old 10th March 2012, 05:00 PM   #2253
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Google Translation:

Hello.
I need a confirmation:
my card is version "Model AA-AB32181"
I can remove the diode input (d4, d6)?
I remove R23, R39 (their work is done by the potentiometer)?
instead of the parallel of C18, C19 (C24, C26) put capacitors 2.2microfarad good quality '?
thank you very much

Ciao fracobast,

Questo un forum di lingua inglese. Si prega di tradurre la lingua inglese quando si registra in un'altra lingua.

Grazie.
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Old 10th March 2012, 07:01 PM   #2254
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sorry. I was convinced that the message was in English
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Old 10th March 2012, 07:57 PM   #2255
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No problem, thanks for your cooperation.
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Old 9th April 2012, 05:08 PM   #2256
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I removed the 15uH toroids and other output filter bits from my not-working 41hz amp4 and transplanted them onto the Sure. One thing is clear. The stock 10uH bobbins are junk. They saturate badly in my opinion. With the toroids in place the bass is rock solid and much less flabby. The 41hz filter also tames the higher frequencies too, although I didn't mind it before.
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Old 9th April 2012, 05:58 PM   #2257
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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The whole 41hz board is amazing if you ask me, same improvement all over....
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Old 9th April 2012, 06:24 PM   #2258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitelabrat View Post
I removed the 15uH toroids and other output filter bits from my not-working 41hz amp4 and transplanted them onto the Sure. One thing is clear. The stock 10uH bobbins are junk. They saturate badly in my opinion. With the toroids in place the bass is rock solid and much less flabby. The 41hz filter also tames the higher frequencies too, although I didn't mind it before.
Curious... Which Sure board? (2x100w / 4x100w)
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Old 9th April 2012, 09:36 PM   #2259
v-bro is offline v-bro  Netherlands
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It's not so curious if you know your HF....

EDIT: Ok, let's elaborate on that. Look at saturation limits in inductor datasheets and you will notice the saturation limits decrease when the frequency rises....rapidly...

It's not just flabby bass, it goes far beyond that. You will already notice it from the idle current that a board will draw. If the output filter chokes saturate it will drastically rise the idle current.

Then in the Sure designs there are tons of unwanted parasitics, not handled RF feedback paths, ringing etc. etc. They are not running hot for no reason.

Try running a formula one car engine on sunflower oil lubrication.... We have a saying over here where I work, "If you pay peanuts you get monkeys...."
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Last edited by v-bro; 9th April 2012 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 9th April 2012, 10:14 PM   #2260
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hi guys,
after all readings i'm confused about the psu voltage?! according to Sure 24-30v max 32v. and many other comments here and there. which voltage gives the best sq? not loudness or watt!

i'm trying to build my psu finally. is 26mb60a bridge rectifier a good solution? or any better?
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